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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Guys,

Need some help with this one. I was doing a routine oil change today when I just happen to notice the lower frame rail was full of oil. I knew I didn't spill any, so I dove in to see what the hell was going on. After I took to the two chrome covers off, I could see the bottom of the boot was all wet.

Here are some pictures and not very good, but best I could do with what I had.







From what I can tell, this has been going on for sometime now. Its probably been 6-8 months since I last removed those covers.

What do you think? Is there a seal in there that has gone bad?

I may just have some time left on my extended warranty, or do I start my winter mods now and tear into it.

Thanks for any and all input.

Chaun
 

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I am doing it right now with my Suzuki dealer / service. yes my warranty has expired so imaging I have to pay 8 hours labour plus parts. you better rush to your dealer before end of your warranty or it will cost you like hell.
I am so pissed off on this brand and 109 model that I can not believe as I have only 6000km and mi bike is 2009 model. I did not completely break in machine yet and am having this already.
I am thinking WHY DID I LEAVE HONDA TEAM, never had any issues with Hondas
 

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2007 Candy Sonoma Red
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There is an oil seal just inside the output side of the gear housing. It take some special tools to get to it, but you could probably fab something up to do it if you want to try it yourself.

I'd at least pull the secondary bevel gear assembly off and take it to them for repair. It can't take more than an hour to replace the seal once the assembly is off, and there's no other parts that need to be replaced to change it. So the cost should just be for the seal and whatever labor they charge.

But if it's under warranty, I'd let them do the whole thing.
 

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I agree

I cant see no 8 hours. Page 167 in the service manual shows only 2 parts and a washer and nut to get at the seal!!

Number 2 is the seal

1 Driven bevel gear coupling
8 Shims
E Driven bevel gear bearing
2 Oil seal
9 O-ring
A Driven bevel gear coupling nut
3 Oil seal housing
0 Secondary gear case
B Secondary driven bearing stopper
4 Bearing housing set
A Output cam dog
C Secondary driven bearing housing bolt
5 O-ring
B Damper spring
D Secondary drive gear bolt
6 Shims
C Spring cam stopper
E Secondary driven gear case bolt
7 Secondary bevel gear set
D Driven bevel gear shaft



There is an oil seal just inside the output side of the gear housing. It take some special tools to get to it, but you could probably fab something up to do it if you want to try it yourself.

I'd at least pull the secondary bevel gear assembly off and take it to them for repair. It can't take more than an hour to replace the seal once the assembly is off, and there's no other parts that need to be replaced to change it. So the cost should just be for the seal and whatever labor they charge.

But if it's under warranty, I'd let them do the whole thing.
 

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Well I took mine apart just for the halibut,

and checked the u-joint and splines where everything comes together. I thought that might be my vibration, but everything was fine. That is one less thing to concern with. Going over to Wintrop this weekend, my mine kept wondering what would happen if the shaft were to freeze up dragging the footpegs around them nice curves up there. LOL, But anyway it took me 45 minutes to take the secondary drive gear cover with half the gears off. I dinked around trying to get it off without taking the back wheel off and loosing the 3 retaining nuts that hold the final drive to the swingarm first!!!!!!! as stated here from another poster, ya need to JUST loosen the 3 nuts on the shaft housing, You will need that 1/4 of room to do this. 30 minutes to put it all back together with test ride final .. No big thing. Just make sure you only torque the 4 bolts that hold the secondary gear cover on to 19 ft lbs, as per the service manual. They are long and springy and could over tighten real easy!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Quick update! I verified that it was oil, and not rear diff fluid leaking back through the shaft. Dropped it off this morning. Within 3 hours, they called and determined that there was a bad seal. Said they had to pull the motor as per the manual. I thought what the hell are you doing that for. We agreed that by pulling the rear tire and swing arm they should be able to take care of it.

Looks like I am down and out till the 15th (I HOPE)
 

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this happened to my 2007 10 days out of warranty.....this can be done without pulling the motor i know because i was there when they changed my seal.
my fix was delayed due to the dealer did not have the correct socket to remove the huge nut inside
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
this happened to my 2007 10 days out of warranty.....this can be done without pulling the motor i know because i was there when they changed my seal.
my fix was delayed due to the dealer did not have the correct socket to remove the huge nut inside
It sounds like the same thing here. They even admitted they didn't have all the right tools and were getting them on order along with the parts.
 

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