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Print version http://www.m109riders.com/howto/oilchange/

Well I know this should be a simple deal but seeing the dealers are having so much trouble getting it right I thought I would do a little step by step Lamonster style. :doorag: You should do your first oil change at about 600 miles and then about every 4000 miles or so after that.

I'm guessing you have a new oil filter and at least 4 quarts of oil ready to go, if so you are ready to change your oil on your 109. :bigthumbsup:

After you have let your bike warm up for awhile the first thing you need to do is find an oil pan to dump your oil and oil filter in. If you don't have one handy you should be able to find something in the kitchen that will work. I used my wife's deep frying pan, that held just the right amount. :doorag: I figure I can sneak it in the dishwasher before she figures out it's gone. :duck:

Now getting the filter off is up to you. I didn't have that special tool from Suzuki and I didn't have a K&N Filter that has the nut on the end so you can just put a wrench on it so I used this piece of junk strap wrench that I've had since the 80's and have yet to find anything that it worked on. ::) I guess this was my lucky day because it did the trick, or it may be because I used my "Easy" button first. :doorag: Spin the filter off and let it drain in the frying pan. The oil is going to be a little warm so don't burn yourself. :redfaced:




If you want you can put the new filter on now, that way you can move the pan over to the drain plugs, that is unless your wife has a really big frying pan then you can leave it be. ;)

When you put the filter on make sure there is a little oil on the O-ring, this will help it to seal. This is the first oil filter that I've seen that the book tells you not to tighten it by hand ::) I guess that shouldn't surprise me because this is the first bike I've owned that I had to let it run for 15 min. before checking the oil. ::) The book says to use your Suzuki tool and tighten to 14.5 lb-ft or two full turns after the O-ring touches the block. I happen to have calibrated manly hands so I did it Lamonster style, you do what you want. ;)

Once again the book tells you to put the bike upright and remove both drain plugs. Looks to me that you will get more oil out it you leave it on the side stand so that's what I did. :doorag: Get yourself a 17mm wrench and pop out both drain plugs and let all the oil drain into the frying pan. After it's done dripping go ahead and put the plugs back in and tighten them up. I used my manly calibrated hands again but the book says to tighten them to 16.5 lb-ft. Now go dump the oil wherever you feel good about it and hide the pan for washing later. :doorag:



Now that you got your new oil filter on and tight, your drain plugs back in and tight and your oil desposed of and the frying pan hid you are ready to fill it back up with oil. :bigthumbsup:

Now I'm not going to tell you what oil to use and why so don't ask. I'm using Amsoil synthetic motorcycle oil 10W-40 because ever since I started using it my teeth are brighter, my breath is fresher, I have lost over 20 lbs and my pants fit better. :joke:



Now the book says it's going to take 3.8 quarts for an oil change and a filter. I would hold off on putting that much in till you check your oil first. :doorag:

I put in a little over 3 quarts and then let the bike idle for 15 min. and let it cool for 3 min. and added what I needed. As you can see from the picture it wasn't quite 3.8 quarts and if I had put that much in I may have been puking oil again. :verymad: Best thing to do is start off a little low an add from there. Make sure the bike is upright and you don't screw the dipstick in when you check your oil.



That's all there is to it. Ride the bike around and then check your oil again and check for leaks and you should be good to go. :bigthumbsup: :doorag: :super:
 

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I used a cat litter box (small one) for the drain plugs and a 1 gallon oil jug with the side cut out to drain the filter into, that way I could let the drain plugs drip out while getting the filter change done :D
 

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:a20: :a20: :a20:
 

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I was curious, will it hurt this bike by idling for 15 minutes, or is that just fine on it?

Also, I know this sounds dumb, but could you take a picture of the oil dipstick, showing where it is best to have it at? I've checked it and it has been hard to get a good reading as it is so runny...
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
BigBen said:
I was curious, will it hurt this bike by idling for 15 minutes, or is that just fine on it?

Also, I know this sounds dumb, but could you take a picture of the oil dipstick, showing where it is best to have it at? I've checked it and it has been hard to get a good reading as it is so runny...
The book tells you to let it run, that's the only way to check the oil on this bike unless you check it after a ride.

I'll see if I can get a pic tomorrow.
 
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We must both be going on a trip cause I changed mine tonight also.  Took out 3 quarts and put 3 back in.  Putted around for 15 minutes and then checked the dipstick after 3 minutes.  A little low so I added about 1/3 of a quart.  Will check it again tomorrow.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
HalGreenlee said:
We must both be going on a trip cause I changed mine tonight also. Took out 3 quarts and put 3 back in. Putted around for 15 minutes and then checked the dipstick after 3 minutes. A little low so I added about 1/3 of a quart. Will check it again tomorrow.
Glad it went well. :bigthumbsup:
 

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A question about changing to Synthetic. When you change the oil there is always some residual left in the case and sheared on parts. How does that effect changing from stock oil to the Synthetic? There's no need to do some kind of flush before going over from regular to Synthetic - and if there is some small residual of regular oil that's ok???
 
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Is there a trick to get the old crush washers off ?? :dontknow: I had to grab them with vise grips and thread them off PITA!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Reaper said:
Is there a trick to get the old crush washers off ?? :dontknow: I had to grab them with vise grips and thread them off PITA!!
Never took mine off and no leaks. The book doesn't say anything about replacing them either. :dontknow:

jazzman said:
A question about changing to Synthetic. When you change the oil there is always some residual left in the case and sheared on parts. How does that effect changing from stock oil to the Synthetic? There's no need to do some kind of flush before going over from regular to Synthetic - and if there is some small residual of regular oil that's ok???
Unless you are doing an engine rebuild you will never get all the old oil out of it. I've never worried about it to tell you the truth and I don't see a real problem with them mixing a bit, it's still oil. ;)
 

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When you check the oil the bike is "upright" ?.
Is it:
1) On the Stand
2) Someone holding the bike upright
3) A 2x4 under the stand to get the bike "pretty close" to upright ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Felix T Cat said:
When you check the oil the bike is "upright" ?.
Is it:
1) On the Stand
2) Someone holding the bike upright
3) A 2x4 under the stand to get the bike "pretty close" to upright ?
At the time I stuck my lift under it just enough to hold it upright but you can do it sitting on the bike.
 

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I'll be the first to admit that I don't have a strong mechanical side, so thank you very much for this post! :bigthumbsup: :bigthumbsup:

Do you have a post about changing gear oil? or dose this cover that as well? Don't laugh at me guys, I've just never done work on cars or bikes.

Thanks for any recommendations.

Mike
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
bowdman said:
I'll be the first to admit that I don't have a strong mechanical side, so thank you very much for this post! :bigthumbsup: :bigthumbsup:

Do you have a post about changing gear oil? or dose this cover that as well? Don't laugh at me guys, I've just never done work on cars or bikes.

Thanks for any recommendations.

Mike
I think there might be something on the site. Do a search and I'm sure you'll comeup with something. I had another offer to do mine so I let him. :bigthumbsup:
 

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bowdman said:
I'll be the first to admit that I don't have a strong mechanical side, so thank you very much for this post!  :bigthumbsup: :bigthumbsup:

Do you have a post about changing gear oil? or dose this cover that as well? Don't laugh at me guys, I've just never done work on cars or bikes.

Thanks for any recommendations.

Mike
Careful with the filler cap!!!!!!!!
I busted the threads right off of mine LOL :D
I didnt think I was tightening it that much but...

Next time I will know, but just in case... I will order one from Suzuki for $11.00 :bigthumbsup:
 

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followed your instructions, Lamonster! rode about 10 miles, so let it sit for awhile, check the stick in the upright position, good too go best i can tell. Also had no blow-by out the filter.....will keep you all updated!!! thanks again Lamonster! hope you have a great trip! :bigthumbsup: :doorag:
 
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