Kickstand sensor killing bike
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83 Posts
I never had a problem with my kickstand switch, but I eliminated it when I got the bike because they always piss me off. Take the switch off, cut off the connector on the bike harness, solder the wires together, cover in heat shrink. You could use a crimp cap. They are usually white and are like a butt connector but only open on one side. Then heat shrink.
Removing the kickstand switch is a safety issue and if you need any sort of inspection down the road, your bike will probably fail.
It's likely the connector is loose or full of crud/corrosion. Take it apart, clean it, inspect the wires and check for obvious issues to correct.
It's likely the connector is loose or full of crud/corrosion. Take it apart, clean it, inspect the wires and check for obvious issues to correct.
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550 Posts
"The kickstand is slightly coming down over bumps." Has someone seen this happen? If so, replace the spring and do what Fraps said. I've never heard of another 9 having that problem but there is always a first. Good Luck!
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58 Posts
Started happening again. If I accelerate hard, once I get up to 5-6k rpms, it'll cut out and the rev bar disappears. The only fix is to reach and kick the kickstand up with my heel. Is there a guide on disassembly and cleaning the sensor? Or should I replace it?
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115 Posts
10 4. i did the same thing when i replaced mine with a shorty kickstand. that fixes the problem.
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3,401 Posts
Its not really a dirty "sensor" issue.
The side stand switch is a momentary plunger type switch.
The side stand presses the plunger in closing the switch when the stand is up.
You probably have one (or more) of the following things happening.
1) The springs on your side stand are worn out or have broken or come loose.
2) The bolt that holds the stand in place is worn and causing the stand to be loose.
3) The metal plate on the frame the stand attaches to is worn causing the stand to be loose.
4) Your side stand is bent.
5) The switch is loose.
6) The switch contact could be failing internally (possible but this is the least likely option IMHO)
I had this same issue long ago with my bike as well.
I just bypassed the side stand switch all together.
But if you do that you have to be aware if the bike is in gear or not when you start it.
If you bypass the side stand switch and start the bike in gear then release the clutch the bike is going to travel forward even with the stand down and not shut off like would if the switch was in the circuit and working properly. (This is obvious I know but once you become accustom to the switch being there, its easy to forget its not)
Take a close look at your side stand, its mount, the bolt and the springs and I am sure it will become obvious what the issue is.
The spring is actually 2 springs (one inside the other) be sure one has not broken or come loose.
BCS
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58 Posts
When it started happening a few months back, the inner spring had, indeed, come off. I got it back on, and it had been fine until today. I'll have to spend some time and inspect it all closely when I have get a chance. I'll just ride carefully until then. I hardly ever rev that high anyways. If I can't figure it out, I'll take some pics and post them to see if anyone can see anything. Worst case I'll just bypass it. I'd rather it be there, but my last bike didn't have it, so it wouldn't be too hard of an adjustment. I was also thinking of trying to find a crazy strong spring.
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22,690 Posts
My switch had gotten worn to the point that instead of the plunger going straight in, it would bind and try to move upward when retracting the side stand. I'm not sure if it was from wear or from the aftermarket side stand, but I fixed it by adding a sleeve over the plunger so the side stand would depress it more.
BCS. have you ever tested one of those switches? They don't seem to be a contact type switch, but more like a hall effect switch. If you test continuity on them you get a variable reading, not just an open/closed reading. I would love to know the reason for them being designed that way. Both the original on mine and a new one I got to replace it test the same way.
BCS. have you ever tested one of those switches? They don't seem to be a contact type switch, but more like a hall effect switch. If you test continuity on them you get a variable reading, not just an open/closed reading. I would love to know the reason for them being designed that way. Both the original on mine and a new one I got to replace it test the same way.
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3,401 Posts
No, I have never tried to test the side stand switch.
But I always assumed it was a mechanical switch.
Bike died on me while clipping along at a good pace, I kicked the stand with the heal of my boot and it came back to life. So I pulled over and bypassed the switch on the side of the road.
We never needed such safety gadgets back in the day and I personally have no use for them on my bike today either.
Its not an issue for me but I do worry a bit anytime I let someone else ride my bike.
Normally you would think of a proximity switch as having 3 wires.....Pos, Neg and a NPN or PNP output.
But 2 wire proximity switches do exist. We use them on the ships I work on in some applications, so it is possible I suppose.
Biggest thing I would question about that is, why have a mechanical plunger if its a proximity switch?
The upside to using a proximity switch is to eliminate the mechanical aspect that can wear out and fail over time (or for applications where physical contact is not possible). Adding the plunger seems to negate that somewhat and seems a bit counterproductive.
I am curious now though and have a side stand switch ratted away, when I get back next week I will find it and have a look.
BCS
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22,690 Posts
BCS, the switch also has a diode in it for some reason, I suppose there must be something in the circuit that would allow power to flow the wrong way if the diode weren't there.
The first time I tested mine I thought the switch was dirty because it showed a varying resistance as the plunger was depressed. But it was too consistent to be dirty. And the switch is potted so there's no way to take it apart to clean it without digging it out of the epoxy. And I don't recall what resistance range I used to get it to indicate, but I do remember having to try a couple different meters to get it to read. I think I had to use my Fluke clamp on and use the probes to get a reading on it.
The first time I tested mine I thought the switch was dirty because it showed a varying resistance as the plunger was depressed. But it was too consistent to be dirty. And the switch is potted so there's no way to take it apart to clean it without digging it out of the epoxy. And I don't recall what resistance range I used to get it to indicate, but I do remember having to try a couple different meters to get it to read. I think I had to use my Fluke clamp on and use the probes to get a reading on it.
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