I personally prefer the VP long. The short is OK but to me the long just suits the bike better. Plus of the ones I've heard, the longs sound better to me. But there is a limit, I had a set of the Cobra Speedster Longs and they ended at or slightly beyond the back of the tire, and that just looked too long. They were at least a foot longer than Richard's. But I got them as a dealer takeoff for about $75 so they were good for a while. The Cobra Swepts that I have now are my favorite, but I'd like them just a touch shorter, maybe ending about the axle.
Is servo needed to run stock exhaust?
21 - 33 of 33 Posts
View attachment 421534
Just unbolt the stock exhaust and the stock mounting bracket. It will all come off in one shot. But it is heavy, so having another set of hands around to hold it up while you unbolt everything an get it off is very helpful.
Honestly its been a few years since I removed a stock exhaust and I cannot remember if the top muffler section needs to be removed or not to get at the mounting bracket bolts.
I don't think it does, but that will become very obvious once you start trying to remove the exhaust. The top muffler section bolts to the mounting bracket with a bolt and to the header pipe with a clamp, so it is easy to remove if need be. It will also make removing the rest of the exhaust a lot lighter if you do take it off.
(You will be very surprised at how heavy the stock exhaust is once you remove it)
Then just install the new bracket that comes with the VPR onto the bike frame and you are ready to mount the new exhaust
Biggest trick with mounting a new exhaust is to get everything sitting in place with the bolts just snugged up a bit, so you can still move things around a little until you have it just like you want it.
When you have it all right where you want it, then tighten the header bolts a bit to seat the flanges to the exhaust gaskets so they will not move around.
Then tighten the clamps that hold the muffler section to the 2 header pipes a bit.
Then tighten the bolts that hold the muffler to the bracket a bit.
Step back and make sure it all still looks good and is right where you want it.
If it is not sitting right where you want it, then loosen the bolts up a little and readjust.
If it is good at this point then go ahead and torque the header bolts to spec. (I usually do this slowly setting my torque wrench a few pound below where I want to end up, tighten all 4 bolts, then raise the torque setting on the wrench a bit a more and tighten all 4 bolts again. Repeat until you reach the final torque spec you want to end up with)
Then I tighten the the clamps that hold the muffler to the header pipes. Tighten these very tight or it will leak......(The CLAMPS not the HEADER BOLTS.....DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN THE HEADER BOLTS)
(I cannot stress this enough....LOL)
Then tighten the bolts that hold the muffler to the bracket again to insure they are jam up and jelly tight.
When you first put the exhaust together and go to set it onto the bike, be sure the clamp for the top header pipe is positioned so that the bolt head is facing out to the side where you will be inserting the socket between the two pipes to tighten it. If you put the clamp any other way it will hit your clutch cover and scratch it.
The clamp for the bottom header pipe should be positioned so that the bolt head is facing down, so you will tighten it laying on the ground looking up at the clamp/bolt head.
Also place a rag over your right foot peg bracket to keep from scratching the exhaust as you set it in place.
Having an extra set of hands available to help you hold everything in place until you get it bolted up is also advisable to keep from scratching the exhaust.
But is doable by yourself if no one is around.
The torque spec for the header bolts is 16.5 ft # as stated in the service manual.
But be very careful tightening these bolts. They are prone to strip easily, so don't gorilla grip the wrench when tightening those.
If you strip them, you will not be happy at all.
I personally add a little never-seize to the threads of the header bolts before installing them.
I also usually do not run these bolts all the way to 16.5 foot # as is specified in the manual. The never-seize acts as a lubricant so I usually stop around 15 ft # if the bolts feel nice and tight already at that point. (But that is just my personal preference. Some will disagree, but I can always go tighter to spec easily if I wanted to later......but it is very tough to un-strip it, if you go to much all at once)
After the exhaust is installed, start the bike and let it warm up at idle. Once its hot, inspect for exhaust leaks.
If none are found take the bike for a ride to get it good an hot, then bring it back into the garage when you return to let it cool down.
Once the engine and pipe are cool, check to see that all the bolts are still tight and the header bolts are still at the spec you set them to previously.
Sorry for the long winded post I know it is a lot more than what you asked in your original question and you may not have been looking for all the extra.
But I have seen many struggle with this and do damage while trying to change an exhaust.
So figured I would detail the post as much as possible, it may help someone reading it in the future as well.
BCS
LGB/FJB
The Velocity Pro Race will come with its own mounting bracket. It all bolts right up, you don't need to cut anything.
Just unbolt the stock exhaust and the stock mounting bracket. It will all come off in one shot. But it is heavy, so having another set of hands around to hold it up while you unbolt everything an get it off is very helpful.
Honestly its been a few years since I removed a stock exhaust and I cannot remember if the top muffler section needs to be removed or not to get at the mounting bracket bolts.
I don't think it does, but that will become very obvious once you start trying to remove the exhaust. The top muffler section bolts to the mounting bracket with a bolt and to the header pipe with a clamp, so it is easy to remove if need be. It will also make removing the rest of the exhaust a lot lighter if you do take it off.
(You will be very surprised at how heavy the stock exhaust is once you remove it)
Then just install the new bracket that comes with the VPR onto the bike frame and you are ready to mount the new exhaust
Biggest trick with mounting a new exhaust is to get everything sitting in place with the bolts just snugged up a bit, so you can still move things around a little until you have it just like you want it.
When you have it all right where you want it, then tighten the header bolts a bit to seat the flanges to the exhaust gaskets so they will not move around.
Then tighten the clamps that hold the muffler section to the 2 header pipes a bit.
Then tighten the bolts that hold the muffler to the bracket a bit.
Step back and make sure it all still looks good and is right where you want it.
If it is not sitting right where you want it, then loosen the bolts up a little and readjust.
If it is good at this point then go ahead and torque the header bolts to spec. (I usually do this slowly setting my torque wrench a few pound below where I want to end up, tighten all 4 bolts, then raise the torque setting on the wrench a bit a more and tighten all 4 bolts again. Repeat until you reach the final torque spec you want to end up with)
Then I tighten the the clamps that hold the muffler to the header pipes. Tighten these very tight or it will leak......(The CLAMPS not the HEADER BOLTS.....DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN THE HEADER BOLTS)
(I cannot stress this enough....LOL)Then tighten the bolts that hold the muffler to the bracket again to insure they are jam up and jelly tight.
When you first put the exhaust together and go to set it onto the bike, be sure the clamp for the top header pipe is positioned so that the bolt head is facing out to the side where you will be inserting the socket between the two pipes to tighten it. If you put the clamp any other way it will hit your clutch cover and scratch it.
The clamp for the bottom header pipe should be positioned so that the bolt head is facing down, so you will tighten it laying on the ground looking up at the clamp/bolt head.
Also place a rag over your right foot peg bracket to keep from scratching the exhaust as you set it in place.
Having an extra set of hands available to help you hold everything in place until you get it bolted up is also advisable to keep from scratching the exhaust.
But is doable by yourself if no one is around.
The torque spec for the header bolts is 16.5 ft # as stated in the service manual.
But be very careful tightening these bolts. They are prone to strip easily, so don't gorilla grip the wrench when tightening those.
If you strip them, you will not be happy at all.
I personally add a little never-seize to the threads of the header bolts before installing them.
I also usually do not run these bolts all the way to 16.5 foot # as is specified in the manual. The never-seize acts as a lubricant so I usually stop around 15 ft # if the bolts feel nice and tight already at that point. (But that is just my personal preference. Some will disagree, but I can always go tighter to spec easily if I wanted to later......but it is very tough to un-strip it, if you go to much all at once)
After the exhaust is installed, start the bike and let it warm up at idle. Once its hot, inspect for exhaust leaks.
If none are found take the bike for a ride to get it good an hot, then bring it back into the garage when you return to let it cool down.
Once the engine and pipe are cool, check to see that all the bolts are still tight and the header bolts are still at the spec you set them to previously.
Sorry for the long winded post I know it is a lot more than what you asked in your original question and you may not have been looking for all the extra.
But I have seen many struggle with this and do damage while trying to change an exhaust.
So figured I would detail the post as much as possible, it may help someone reading it in the future as well.
BCS
LGB/FJB
Hello are you selling your Sideburner by chance? thank you!I do like the look of the VP short. Long looks good too. I never carry a pillion, that's what either the GS or the Strom is for.
I keep the 9 just for my riding pleasure. Wait, that doesn't sound right
I would be keen I think for the shorty.
21 - 33 of 33 Posts
