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I know this is a big can of worms and is somewhat opinionated and i have searched it on the site but what intake gives the most performance and the most noticable gain with a cobra fi2000 and a 2 to 1 roadburner pro vel pipe...I heard the bigair kit and tornados ??looking for some advise short of spending $1000.00 on a set up.I saw a goldwing set up looks interisting also or ducks coves???could really use some help in making a decision.:dontknow:
 

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Design flaw did a dyno test and gained a ton with just a set done by me. I'm kind of bias but a custom set at a fraction of the price of the others.
 

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I think all of the "open air" intakes flow about the same.....so pick out which ever one is most pleasing to your eye. Bang for your buck, it would be hard to beat a Duck's cover. I personally went with the Tornados and am very glad I did.

 

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:drool: really like the Duck mods. Have been working on a design for my bike. As soon as I can settle on 1 thats the route im going. Nothing like going custom to make the bike your own. Will put a set of K&N's behind it. fi2000, shortened and moded stock exhaust. Just got my soft saddle bags. waiting for quick release mounts. On vacation in 2 weeks. so will be doing most of work then. Will post picks soon. 09 white/blue LE
 

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I am using the Ultra Air Stage 2 intake. I like the looks of these. Seem to preform well.

 

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Just installed these on both sides. Picked them up from a member in here and LOVE THEM!!!!
The bike sounds like it has more bark to it..... and much to my surprise on two counts, they were easy to install and they are not so large looking when on the bike as they were in my hands.....hmmmmm maybe I've got small hands. Hmmm, wonder what they say about having small hands?
:dontknow:

:a20:
I need to get out more........
Paul
 

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Design flaw did a dyno test and gained a ton with just a set done by me. I'm kind of bias but a custom set at a fraction of the price of the others.
I vote a ducks cover. That way you can have a truly custom air intake cover. And save a lot of coin in the process.
 

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they were in my hands.....hmmmmm maybe I've got small hands. Hmmm, wonder what they say about having small hands?
:dontknow:

:a20:
I need to get out more........
Paul
 

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A set of Ducks covers and K&N filters inside seem to work pretty well. Just make sure you have an open enough design to let more air in than the opening in the back does. That way you have cool air instead of hot air coming off the engine.
 

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A set of Ducks covers and K&N filters inside seem to work pretty well. Just make sure you have an open enough design to let more air in than the opening in the back does. That way you have cool air instead of hot air coming off the engine.
I`m very interested in the science of cool vs warm air. I live in Washington where it is usually between the 40s and 70s in temp. Would it make that much of a diference?:dontknow:
 

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I`m very interested in the science of cool vs warm air. I live in Washington where it is usually between the 40s and 70s in temp. Would it make that much of a diference?:dontknow:
I would think it would. You may not feel it but it should make a difference.
 

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I`m very interested in the science of cool vs warm air. I live in Washington where it is usually between the 40s and 70s in temp. Would it make that much of a diference?:dontknow:
Cold air has more oxygen by volume. So you can stuff more fuel into the cylinder while maintaining the proper air/fuel ratio. That's one reason why the go-fast people like it. This is why I run my set-up the way I do.

The idea behind using warm air for efficiency is to intentionally depower the motor. Less oxygen by volume means you must open the throttle further to generate a given amount of power. A wider throttle opening means reduced pumping losses.
 

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I`m very interested in the science of cool vs warm air. I live in Washington where it is usually between the 40s and 70s in temp. Would it make that much of a diference?:dontknow:
cold air makes a heck of a difference.

Air expands and contracts with heat and cold.

Hot/ 'expanded' air is less dense that cold/ 'contracted' air.

The greater the density or the air, the more oxygen is present in a sample of a given size. This is also why 'scoops' are a popular component of many performance intakes as when your speed increases, air is forced in, becoming more dense. This is also the principal behind turbos and superchargers as both force air into the motor at densities well above atmospheric pressure/density.

The more oxygen, the more efficient the fuel burn (or greater amount of fuel you can burn efficiently)

A difference of 10 degrees can make as big of a difference as 5%, so if your fuel is managed properly, you could, in theory, see up to a 5% gain in power.

The problem is that you are not likely to manage your fuel properly.

You set your fuel manager based on the temperature of air you run most in and when you are off of your normal range, well you are just wasting potential in the cold or passing unburnt fuel in the heat. To avoid this waste, you would need an active management system, which as far as I know is only available with the PCV with Autotune, which monitors your exhaust gases to adjust your fuel/air mixture for that moment.
 

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Im looking at the tornados! :2cool:
Ive got K & N filters with stock covers and got a noticeable difference - looking forward to getting the tornados this year!
 

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To avoid this waste, you would need an active management system, which as far as I know is only available with the PCV with Autotune, which monitors your exhaust gases to adjust your fuel/air mixture for that moment.
SR, maybe you can answer this since it's something I've wondered about on these auto tune systems.

What does it control it to, stoichiometric ratio, best power ratio, or both? MAF or speed density (MAP) based systems monitor the air density, air temperature, engine load, throttle position, engine temp , and O2 sensor readings. But we don't have a way of monitoring intake air density, just intake air temp and barometric pressure to some degree.

I can see it monitoring throttle position and engine temp along with the O2 sensor readings, but it can't determine load on the engine through any method I see. And if it just controls it to stoichiometric it would be great for fuel mileage but not for power.

Any idea how it works? I've not seen a dyno chart from one with a PCV and auto tune on it to see where it controls the A/F ratio.
 

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SR, maybe you can answer this since it's something I've wondered about on these auto tune systems.

What does it control it to, stoichiometric ratio, best power ratio, or both? MAF or speed density (MAP) based systems monitor the air density, air temperature, engine load, throttle position, engine temp , and O2 sensor readings. But we don't have a way of monitoring intake air density, just intake air temp and barometric pressure to some degree.

I can see it monitoring throttle position and engine temp along with the O2 sensor readings, but it can't determine load on the engine through any method I see. And if it just controls it to stoichiometric it would be great for fuel mileage but not for power.

Any idea how it works? I've not seen a dyno chart from one with a PCV and auto tune on it to see where it controls the A/F ratio.
If I had an answer, I would not hold out on you, but the folks at Dynojet get tired of you quick when you want these kind of details.

In short, there response is that the system will be finding the points that it can add the most fuel without causing excess unburnt fuel in your exhaust.

Not a real answer, I know, but it is all I have gotten out of them.
 

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If I had an answer, I would not hold out on you, but the folks at Dynojet get tired of you quick when you want these kind of details.

In short, there response is that the system will be finding the points that it can add the most fuel without causing excess unburnt fuel in your exhaust.

Not a real answer, I know, but it is all I have gotten out of them.
Thanks SR. I know if you knew what it did you would share it. I'm guessing they set it up to control it somewhere between stoichiometric and a good power A/F just to keep everyone happy. And that's probably good enough.
 
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