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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
First of all the credit for this goes to Wanted. He was the one who did the hard work of figuring this all out. He came up with the idea from the many folks who posted saying the stock horn was so wimpey. That being said. First of all the horn is amazingly loud for such a little bit of money. I have had air horns on every bike I have owned and these were by far the cheapest and still very, very loud.

Here is the cheapest place I have found to get them. Jason from the board turned me on to these guys and they are great to deal with. I paid $10 more on e-bay and these guys were also cheaper on shipping:

http://www.bikerhiway.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=29&products_id=74

They include the horn, the relay, wires and connectors. There are only a few odds and ends you will need to fit it to the 109.

1) You will need to remove the Right side cover, the tank, the neck cover and the front cowl. All of these are covered in the instruction manual and/or service manual.

2) You might as well get the hardest part done first: The horn is located behind the radiator. Depending on the size of your hands you may need to remove the three bolts that hold the radiator in place to get a little more working room. If so, there are two on the top and one on the bottom. The radiator will not fall off if you remove all three bolts. It actually only gives you about an inch more of working space.

3) You can hook the horn up one of two ways: A - Keep the stock horn and the new air horn or B - Disconnect the stock horn and just have the air horn. I would highly suggest going with A, but that is up to you.

4) If you choose A - you will need to use T-taps and tap into the existing wires. If you choose B- you can remove the connection from the horn and insert male spade connectors in the connector.

5) From there you would run the wires around to the left side of the bike (if you were sitting on it) and run them along the frame tubing. Secure them with zip ties. You will run them into the hollow spot under the seat behind the side panel you just removed.

6) YOu will have to fabricate a bracket to hold the horn in place. I used a 1/2" chrome piece of steel I had from a Kohler toilet. It is the piece that goes from the handle to the flapper. They are available at Home Centers, etc. You can also use a 4" piece of 1/2: flat stock and that will work fine.

7) The wiring is covered in the instructions and is very straight forward. Two horn wires go to the relay. One wire from the + side of the compressor goes to the relay and the hot, fused wire coming from the battery goes to the last connection on the relay. The - post on the compressor goes to the - on the battery.

NOTE: I have had the female connector brake twice on the compressor hook up so I took the female connectors off and soldered the wires direclty on the male connectors on the compressor and then cut the power and ground wire and put male/female connectors on them so I can easily connect or disconnect the set up if I need to. I don't know if it is vibration, the tight quarters or what that was causing the connectors to brake, but I figure soldering should take care of it.

8) One thing that was found is that the location has ALOT of heat there so the bottom of the compressor must be wrapped with some type of heat shielding. We found that header wrap like that used on exhaust pipes is best. I found a company on e-bay that sells it in small sections for cheap and bought it from them. You cut two pieces and make an X out of it, wrap both sides of the compressor going from the bottom of the compressor up and then wrap that with a radiator clamp. That will take care of protecting the wires from the heat that comes off of the rear jug. If you do not wrap the bottom you will melt the wires. This was a problem that we experienced before finding that the header wrap was the solution.

9) Put the bike back together and you are all done. The difference is night and day and at least now when you blow the horn, people will hear you.

If you run into a problem or have any questions, feel free to contact me if I can be of any help.

Regards,
Mike aka Bruno
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Very nice... I did a similar change to my sabre, and I will think about this for the 109... :bigthumbsup:
 
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I just ordered one... I am thinking I will probably will install it inside the nacelle since it I want people in front of me to hear me best...

I will install at the same time as my new Kury Lizard Lights
 

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Blowing fuses instantly most likely means power is shorted to ground somewhere in your wiring... Or the fuse is under rated for the current flowing through it.

Does it blow only when you hit the button?
 

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