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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Print version http://www.m109riders.com/howto/dragsters/

Cobra Dragsters exhaust for the Suzuki M109R

This is to be used as a supplement to the instructions provided by Cobra. If you have any concerns about these instructions refer back to Cobras instructions.
These pipes should be used with some sort of fuel management like the Cobra FI2000R


The install was not that bad but I'm sure some pictures will help. 8) I'm just going to point out the hard parts on this.

Remove the right side covers to gain access to the mounting exhaust hanger mounting bolts.

Remove the right side cover above the exhaust (steel). Remove bushing from side cover for later use. This cover will not go back on the bike unless you plan on cutting it to fit. You will reuse the bushing.



Locate the exhaust valve actuator solenoid and harness and disconnect the black connector and the white connector so that this valve can be removed from the exhaust.



Remove the the exhaust flange bolts on both cylinder heads.
Remove bolts holding exhaust mounting bracket and then remove exhaust.




This is the part that gets a little confusing but after you do it you understand what they are talking about.
There are two adjustment nuts on each cable. Loosen all four nuts so that you have plenty of slack in the cables.



Remove the mounting bolts.



Remove the dust cover and expose the cam.
I used a big crescent wrench to hold the cam while I broke loose the allen head bolt that holds the cam on to the shaft. Make sure you don't rotate the cam when you do this or you could damage the unit.
At this point the instructions tell you to remove the cables from the cam but you really don't need to, just pop the cam off of the shaft and then remove the cables from the unit.



Install new Cobra cam and tighten bolt.



Install solenoid to Cobra bracket.




Tip :bigthumbsup: This is the time that you are going to bolt on the Cobra exhaust bracket and pipes. Do yourself a favor and put the heat shields on now so you don't have to fight those clamps later. There are two size clamps so make sure you put the longer clamp on the fat part of the pipe. Get all the clamps started but leave them loose so you can install the flange bolts into the heads. I wish I would have figured this out before I did mine. Make sure you have the head of the clamps pointing down so you can tighten them from the bottom.

Install the mounting bracket and pipes but leave everything loose. The solenoid bracket will bolt on the back side of the front pipe. You can plug the two plugs back in now and tuck out of the way.



Snug up all the mounting bolts but not too tight yet. With the slop taken out of the mounting bolts proceed to tighten the exhaust flanges. Now snug up the rest of the bolts.

Install billet end tips.
Push tips tight to the pipes and tighten up pressure clamps.

Reinstall side covers and reuse bushing from steel cover.



Check all bolts again and then fire up those bad boys. :evil:
http://www.m109riders.com/cobrapipes.WAV
 

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awesome tutorial. thanks for the extra work man.
 

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Lamonster,

I am going to have my laptop next to me when I install mine. They should be in on the 25th. Thanks for the posting and keep up the good work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Another little thing I did. I didn't like the swingarm bolt being exposed like this.



So I had a VTX swingarm plug that was a little too small but once I wrapped a little black tape around it and siliconed it in the bolt hole it looked like it belonged there. :bigthumbsup:

 

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I thought that cap looked awful familiar.....I never lost either one off my 1800VTX/C but recall a few X riders who did. The fix to loosing them was the silicone.
 

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Wow, great "How To". I also thought that swingarm bolt cover looked familiar.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Singer71 said:
Hi Lamonster
I followed your tutorial, it was great. Everything is set but i get the "FI" light flashing. What to do, what to do?

Jesper
Not sure, I didn't have that problem and I've done three sets now. ::)

Make sure all your connections are good and then take the ground off of the battery and reset the computer.
 

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Lamonster said:
Not sure, I didn't have that problem and I've done three sets now. ::)

Make sure all your connections are good and then take the ground off of the battery and reset the computer.
I had a connector between the upper part of the exhaust on each pipe that ran with wires to a plastic connector on top of the cylinder. These are hanging loose right now, I think they are some kind of exhaust indicator.
Can this be different sinc it's a european bike?
I'm thankful for all the help I can get I think Im first in Sweden with Cobra Dragsters so I have no one to ask.

Jesper

How do I reset the computer, is it just to lift the ground of the battery?
 

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Lamont... I am going to start my exhaust work next Tuesday and I'm trying to get all my "Ducks in a row".

Im looking at the pics you posted in here (Which I appreciate) and have a question on the SET actuator cam.

When you installed it onto the actuator does it matter if it is rotated all the way up or down to where it stops (The Aluminum ear hits the plastic)? Do I need to Identify/observe position of the original SET cam before installing this?

Your help is greatly appreciated.

:bigthumbsup:
 
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JUtah said:
Lamont... I am going to start my exhaust work next Tuesday and I'm trying to get all my "Ducks in a row".

Im looking at the pics you posted in here (Which I appreciate) and have a question on the SET actuator cam.

When you installed it onto the actuator does it matter if it is rotated all the way up or down to where it stops (The Aluminum ear hits the plastic)? Do I need to Identify/observe position of the original SET cam before installing this?

Your help is greatly appreciated.

:bigthumbsup:
There is an index stripe on the stud from the motor. If you are using Perry's version pointed side goes down, the other I am assuming that the arm goes up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
JUtah said:
Lamont... I am going to start my exhaust work next Tuesday and I'm trying to get all my "Ducks in a row".

Im looking at the pics you posted in here (Which I appreciate) and have a question on the SET actuator cam.

When you installed it onto the actuator does it matter if it is rotated all the way up or down to where it stops (The Aluminum ear hits the plastic)? Do I need to Identify/observe position of the original SET cam before installing this?

Your help is greatly appreciated.

:bigthumbsup:
Should look just like this when you are done.

 
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Thanks Lamont, the write up worked great for Doughboy and I last night. The instructions provided by Cobra were weak at best. Heck, I didn't even find them until mounting the solenoid to the metal bracket. :bigthumbsup:
 

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I can just remove the SET altogether as well right? I know I have to remove 2 wires from the ECM connector to avoid the light.

My dragsters are on order and I have removed the stock exhaust from my bike already.
 

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Now if only I had searched for this 4 days ago!! I was up till 1am putting these on by myself!!! Those cobra instructions were garbage, and I tried to disconnect the exhaust from the mounting bracket, so of course then I had to remount them once I realized the cam cables were not going to let go. I guess I could do it in 90mins now, but it was rough. If only I saw this first! Great Job. :D What's recommended next? The FI2000R or PCIII? Seems to me the PCIII would be better for tuning, but i'm no expert.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
jettpower said:
Now if only I had searched for this 4 days ago!! I was up till 1am putting these on by myself!!! Those cobra instructions were garbage, and I tried to disconnect the exhaust from the mounting bracket, so of course then I had to remount them once I realized the cam cables were not going to let go. I guess I could do it in 90mins now, but it was rough. If only I saw this first! Great Job. :D What's recommended next? The FI2000R or PCIII? Seems to me the PCIII would be better for tuning, but i'm no expert.
PC3 for sure. :bigthumbsup:
 

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put a set of cobra dragster longs on for a buddy last night. all stock bike.
thanks lamonster for how to.
thoughts:
triangular steel cover (the piece with the spring like hook on the right side) gets eliminated. must cut the piece to fit back in if you want to keep it. interior of bike is exposed as well as some important wiring. would have thought cobra design would maintain this part or supply a replacement.
2 bushings for SET mount, a screw & the billet tip mounting screws all missing from parts package.
lamont is RIGHT again! loosely put on clamps for heat shields BEFORE mounting pipes. pain in the arse after pipes are mounted. kinda cheezy using radiator hose clamps to secure exhaust parts. SET cam replacement was ez enough.
results....good loud bad arse sound. good sound on accel & hard accel will wake the neighbors. little tinny on decel but i think that is the nature of this bike probably because of shorter stroke or bore size.
bike got quicker...noticeably quicker. its true...this bike needs to breathe!
 
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