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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Guys need some help.
Over the last few months I have been having problems with batteries going flat, sometimes in only a few hours.
Now Yesterday I washed the bike, dried her with my yard blower as I've done for 4 years. Started her up and rode her back into the shed, all fine all normal.
But next afternoon I went to start her and not a cracker, not 1 volt in the battery, no ignition, no gauges, no lights, bugger, so I charge the battery (out of the bike this time).
I have a spare (older) battery that had some charge, so for interest I start to connect this battery to the bike, first i connect the earth, then as I touch the active to the terminal the ignition, gauges, exhaust flapper, fuel pump, head light all come on, yes just like it does when the ignition switch is on, BUT thats right the switch was off. So off course I them turn the key on - off - on - off many times and I could duplicate the problem quite a few times.
I have since given the ignition switch a good spray with WD40, thinking it may be water, and it will still stay on but certainly less often.
So question I suppose, has anyone had this happen to them, and I wonder if the switch could pass enough current at times to drain the battery slowly. Cause when I turn the engine off I would certainly notice if the ignition was still on. It could even be a sticky starter relay.
The draining battery has been a real hassle for me, in fact I went on a 7 hour ride with Bluey and Skip recently and I was having trouble at fuel stops restarting her.
Its been very intermittent, but generally all bad. :dontknow:
Any polite ideas guys.
 

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2007 Candy Sonoma Red
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This is a dumb question, so excuse me for asking. Are you removing the key with it in the park position? If so, that leaves the tail light on and would definitely drain the battery. Looking at the switch, off is all the way counterclockwise, then run is one click clockwise, then to put it in park you have to shove in on the key and turn it one more click clockwise. You can remove the key in that position too.

Other than that, do you have any aftermarket accessories that could be drawing power? The clock and ECU have power on it all the time but the draw is insignificant. I've had my battery disconnected a few times and don't recall the gauges or anything activating when I hook it back up. It does give a small spark due to the clock and such.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks Zoom, but no its certainly not in parking position. I do have a sebel horn hooked up but that is via a relay. Also a TRE.
Yeah when I reconnected the battery, the ignition, the head light, gauges, fuel pump, the speedo does its full sweep, yea its as though the key is in the full ignition on position ready to start the engine, but of course the key is in my pocket.
This would happen quite often during my testing, but much less now, after I gave the key hole a good squirt.
But more of a concern, would it be possible for the ignition switch to be only partly on (closed contact) just enough to draw a small current BUT not enough to actually start the full ignition procedure.
Strange indeed.
 

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2007 Candy Sonoma Red
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BCB, I'd say that is possible. Over time the contacts can build up corrosion on them and not break the circuit completely when turned off. It certainly doesn't happen often, but it is possible.

I think there is a connection for the switch not far from the switch. You might try unhooking the switch and then connecting the battery and see if it does the same thing. According to the wiring diagram the switch should break the circuit, there's nothing in it that should pass any current with it off. That's not saying there may not be something else that would carry the current, but the switch shouldn't be.
 

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It sounds like you have a bad switch. There is probably a small piece of metal floating around inside the contact housing. I have seen this before on other things. See if you can take it apart and clean it out. Or try swapping it out with another switch and see if the problem goes away. Find a friend to trade switches with for testing purposes before getting a new one. :bigthumbsup:
 

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BCB, before you spends any money; tell how your added-in relay is wired. . . a relay helps to isolate feed back but not completely.
I've seen where some low voltage electronics will do crazy things with a relay bleeding between relay terminal 85 and 86
if this is case; you can add two diode on 85 and 86 or change the relay for a Solid State Relay

To test this: disconnect the added-in horn and relay
use an amp meter to see if any amp drop before and after you disconnect the horn and or relay


 

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Ignition switch

It sure sounds like your ignition switch is malfunctioning to me. This is an expensive item to replace, $127 for the switch, but $365 for the three piece lock set, which you need for all three to match one key.
I got these prices from:
http://www.alpha-sports.com/suzuki_parts.htm
The ignition switch is held together with tamper proof bolts that break off if you try to remove them if memory serves me correctly.
I would try some more WD-40, and tap on it with a small tack hammer a few dozen times to loosen it up inside.
But if it's corroded too bad inside, you need a new switch.
You could change to a Drag Specialities flip switch like I did on my 1500 Intruder:
http://www.moccsplace.com/images/hdswitch/hdswitch.htm
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Guys thanks a heap for all your help, at the moment the switch is fine maybe the WD40 is working. I have thought also of the starter relay.
By the way I do leave the key in the hole while I wash her, bad bad idea it seems. :doh:
I do use the garden hose to rinse and I blown dry with the yard blower.
 

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I took my switch apart to have a key made. Broke the tamper proof screws and had to re drill and run a tap thru them. They are small but it can be done. Springs and contacts are everywhere so open slowly clean and lube.
 

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if WD 40 seems to be helping, I will say use a petroleum base spray lube such as PB Blaster after spraying it out with a electrical contact cleaner
WD 40 is not as good as it use to be, it is no longer a petroleum base
it is still however a fairly good water repellent; PB Blaster is much much better
hope that is all it tune out to be
good luck and keep us posted

Guys thanks a heap for all your help, at the moment the switch is fine maybe the WD40 is working. I have thought also of the starter relay.
By the way I do leave the key in the hole while I wash her, bad bad idea it seems. :doh:
I do use the garden hose to rinse and I blown dry with the yard blower.
 

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I have had this happen to me when I kill the motor with either the kickstand or the kill switch and then turn the ignition off. If I use the ignition switch to kill the motor then it never happens.
 

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This happened to a mates bike.The ignition seemed to do what it wanted, off and on no matter where the key was turned too. I dismantled the switch and found a wire had come loose in the back of the switch. He purchased a new switch and the problem was solved.
 
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