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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I read the many threads regarding gutting the stock exhaust. I was bored, so I decided to give it a try. I have a 2007 US model M109R....it was imported into Canada for me...so no Oxygen sensors. :D

Anyways, I went into Canadian Tire and got the required tools suggested by many.....about $45 spent. The 3" Bi-Metal Hole saw bit, the 1 1/4" Bi-Metal Hole saw bit, and a suitable mandrel for the hole saw bits. I was undecided about which method to pursue....so I started off with drilling out the tubes. In the 2007, there are 4 plates to be drilled out. See below.



I've read that some members that did this MOD only got 2, maybe 3 plates out of the exhaust, even after physically drilling 4 plates. Well, I found that two of my plates folded over in the tube and stayed in place. I was bound and determined to get all 4 out. So, I went to the closet and got out my multi-purpose tool.....the wire coat hanger. I straightened it out and put a hook on the end....then I went fishing.



Well, after a few bites, I got the remaining two plates free and fished them out using the magnet on a stick. That's probably what happened to those mysteriously disappearing plates....there's just folded over and just need some help.

I didn't use a bit extension to reach the last two plates. If your mandrel has an 11/32" hex fitting on the end like mine did, I just used an 11/32" socket with a long 3/8" drive extension. I just used silicone and filled the socket to secure the mandrel...obviously, I waited until it cured before doing the MOD.

I also used a 3/8" drive nut driver and attached it to the end of my drill. Below, you can see that I started to drill out the outer wall of the exhaust. I squared up the hole saw bit and removed the center pilot drill bit to prevent it from breaking. Use a slow speed to allow the hole saw to cut into the metal. If you go too fast, the bit will jump all over the place. Take it slow. You will see evidence of that in the next few pics.



I wasn't certain about which method to use and how loud I wanted my exhaust to be. So I started off with drilling the tubes. I used the extension and socket method to drill out the tubes first and then approached the tube removal process. I highly recommend removing the tubes entirely.



To removed the tubes, the simplest way I found was to use a drift punch or a solid screwdriver and strike the tabs holding the tubes. To gain access to these tabs, bend the outer plate inward to see inside. See the damage to the upper pipe when I went too fast....the teeth starter to chew away at everything.



If you look at the lower pipe, I was just starting to bend the plate inward. I used a set of Channel Lock pliers,


...to bend it toward the pipe. You will see where the tubes are held to the pipe by those 3 tabs.

Here's a pic for the lower tabs:


And here's a pic of how far in those tabs are, relative to the end of the pipe: (NOTE: If you're still unsure of how I managed to use a 3/8" extension, take a look at the drill to the right of the picture....drill is connected to the 3/8" nut driver, then a 3/8" socket reducer...down to 1/4" drive, then the 1/4" drive socket (11/32")....just use as many 3/8" extensions you have in your ratchet set to achieve the desired length)



This only took me 35 minutes to do from start to finish. Here are the two tubes:



It was getting late and I didn't want to fire up the compressor and the air grinder, but the next step is to grind away the remaining outer plate and shoot a little bit of high temperature black paint into the inside tubes.



It wasn't too late to fire her up.....she sure sounds great!!
 

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Excellent pics and description. :bigthumbsup::bigthumbsup:

The only thing I might add, and I can't tell if you did it or not, is to use the 1 1/4" hole saw mounted inside the 3" hole saw when you drill the end cap out. The smaller saw will center in the tube and keep the big saw from skating around. You drill straight in towards the cap instead of squaring it up, but it cuts out nice and clean. If you're planning on grinding the rest of the wall out it doesn't really matter, but it may help those who leave it as is.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Excellent pics and description. :bigthumbsup::bigthumbsup:

The only thing I might add, and I can't tell if you did it or not, is to use the 1 1/4" hole saw mounted inside the 3" hole saw when you drill the end cap out. The smaller saw will center in the tube and keep the big saw from skating around. You drill straight in towards the cap instead of squaring it up, but it cuts out nice and clean.
Thanks, I just did that MOD tonight.

I actually used a 1 1/4" wooden dowel to start the cut, but it didn't hold. I figured I was just going to remove the tube anyways. I couldn't use the 1 1/4" small bit within the larger 3" bit. The mandrel wouldn't accomodate that. That's why I went with the wooden dowel and ultimately to the full removal of the center bit.

Upon reading other threads, there's another tube deeper within the pipe. I'm not sure if I'm going to remove that one too. This MOD works for me.....for now. :a18:
 
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