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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok, I am getting closer to beating the FI light. Though I need someone who is not currently getting the FI light to give me some numbers. The reason behind all this is when you change your exhaust you will be removing the Suzuki SET valve, and when you do you are going to get this FI light. What I am trying to do is be able to bypass just the SET valve triggering the light but keep the other functions working properly. I need you to do a few things and I will list them the best I can, if you are willing to help you will be helping not just me but all members who will ultimately be changing out their exhaust.

OK lets begin, on the right hand side of the bike just below the seat behind the chrome cover that has a little metal wire hanger coming off of it pointing towards the front of the bike with a bolt through it there are two plugs, one black triangle and one white flat plug.

All test will be preformed with the key on, and checked on the Set valve side of the wiring

Locate the Black triangle
1st. Locate the white wire and shove your probe inside the rubber :redfaced: along the wire :bigthumbsup: and read the voltage with the rocker off then on making shure you give it enough time to do its setup that it goes through each time you switch it.
2nd. Locate the yellow wire and repeat step 1
3rd. Locate the black wire and repeat step 1

Congratulations were almost done..

Now we need to locate the white plug just next to the black one. The white plug only has two wires.
1st. Locate the red wire and check the voltage with both the rocker switch off then on.
2nd. Locate the brown wire and repeat step one.

Thats it, record all of this info and report it as soon as you can. Congratulations, you have done a good deed for all you fellow brothers!!!

:bigthumbsup: :bigthumbsup: :bigthumbsup: :bigthumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Come on someone has to own a multimeter. This is as simple as it comes it is text book stuff :read:....My girlfriend could do this...HELP PLEASEEEEEE :beer2:
 

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I was going to ask... even though you got rid of the SET valve, you DID keep the solenoid, didn't you??? :eek:

I know on the other Boulevards, when getting rid of the PAIR system, you need to keep the solenoid or else you get all kinds of flashy warning things.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
OMG :eek: :eek: :eek: WHAT Solenoid :eek: :eek: :eek:

Lamonster, what in the world is that? What are you showing me? Maybe i removed the Flux Capacitor!!!! :yikes:


Seriously, what soleniod, are you talking about the electronic Black box that the Black and White plugs run into?
 

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As you know, there is a motor that actuates the cable and pulley system that turns the valve.

Most likely, the ECU senses how much current this motor is trying to draw, which would be an indication if the valve is stuck or something else is wrong. If the ECU senses a problem here, it would raise an error condition and turn on the FI light.

The easiest way to get around this issue when modding the exhaust would have been to leave this assembly intact and just move it somewhere out of the way.

Failing that, you'll probably have to add a resistor to simulate the load that the motor would have normally provided.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Wanted, you have nailed it on the head with where I was going with the original question in the thread. I figured this to be the case. Since I cannot replicate the resistance I need a electrical measurment so that I can to repeat it.

So did anyone take these measurments yet?
 

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Wild - I don't belive it's a simple matter of adding a single resistor. With the design of the thing (internal rheostat), the ECM expects to see a vairable load across 2 conditions (open/close) - so you may need to mock up a little circuit.

With that said - and b/c I finally cracked the service manual seal - data for FI diagnostics shows:

  • Input voltage for the sensor is 4.5V - 5.5V
  • Position sensor output voltage will be:
    • 0.5 to 1.5V when valve is fully closed
    • 3.5V to 4.5V when valve is fully open
    • (both are measurements between Yellow(+) and Black/Brown (-), harness side - these correspond to Yellow (+) and White (-), sensor side.)

Hope this helps you a bit in your goal...

J
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Mr. J Copley thank you so much. This is what I needed, though you may be right. It is seeming to be a little more complicated though not nearly impossible. Thanks again for the info...
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Jcopley, I am not understanding when you say that these measurements are a value of resistance across + & -, but the values you give are voltages? Can you please copy and post or email me a copy of the pages that you found pertaining to the SET valve and schematics.

Also I still need someone to take the measurements that I wrote instructions for at the top of the page. Thanks again....... :bigthumbsup:
 

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My bad - I had resistors on the brain when typing the earlier message.  It's trully a voltage measurement.  I modified the original post...

Info can be found on pages 5-83 through 5-91 of the service manual, which is the valve troubleshooting section under FI Diagnosis.  I'll scan and post the pages if I can this weekend... no promises, though... it is memorial day weekend! ;)

If Lamonster sees this, I know he posted scans of the wiring schematics elselwhere... maybe he can help here, too  ;)

J
 
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