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Ok…here we go…this post is for those M109 owners who are having difficulty with clutch cables breaking. I said if it worked for me I would share the information. For the rest of the M109 owners who are not experiencing this problem…that's great and I hope none of you have to.
Parts Required for the Conversion:

HD Perch

HD Perch end on Custom Barnett Cable

Suzuki end near engine for Custom Cable
Replacing the stock or after market clutch cable with the custom HD end clutch cable is the same concerning the routing and the engine end mounting.
For the clutch cable replacement with a step by step and pics. Please see my following post:
http://www.m109riders.com/forums/showthread.php?t=123531&highlight=gooroo


Remove cable from stock perch
Other things to remember:
Make sure you splice the two electronic wires together for the electronic clutch disengagement that are connected to the stock Suzuki perch. Failing to do so will keep you from starting your bike upon completion because on the stock perch pulling the lever back closes the circuit and allows you to crank the ignition. Pulling the clutch in, to start your bike with the new HD perch will no longer be required after splicing the wires and permanently closing the circuit. I can just see you guys cursing me because your bikes won't start if you make this modification.


You will need to remove the hand piece on the left side of the handles bars to get the stock perch off. The HD perch has two set screws so after you replace the hand piece on the bars, you will be able to mount the HD perch and make the required adjustments for fit.

You may need a standard/metric converter for your mirror depending upon the thread type.
After you have the new HD perch in place you can route the new clutch cable just as you normally would. Mounting the cable at the motor end is the same. Mounting at the new HD perch is easy and self explanatory.
Adjust you slack at the engine side and then fine tune the adjustment with the in line adjuster located 27.5 inches from the perch. This should be located adjacent to the frame and radiator, but hidden behind the plastic radiator shroud. You can use this adjuster to tighten the cable when it stretches some after being used for awhile.

Adjuster is hidden behind shroud
Finished and it works great...hopefully this will solve the breaking problem.

Thanks again to Joe and Mark at Barnett cables and to Lisa and Rick at Horney's Custom Cycle in Florida.
I'll let the rest of you know if I have any issues in the future 8)
Parts Required for the Conversion:
- HD Clutch Lever and Perch: Part Number: 26-276 clutch lever assembly from custom chrome, I am sure other vendors have this part.
- The fitment is for a 1982-1995 Harley-Davidson clutch lever and mount.
- Barnett Suzuki Cable with custom HD end at perch. Barnett has this custom cable listed under their Suzuki cables as a custom HD mount. Thanks to Joe and Mark who assisted me with this custom design. Make sure you specify +3 if needed.

HD Perch

HD Perch end on Custom Barnett Cable

Suzuki end near engine for Custom Cable
Replacing the stock or after market clutch cable with the custom HD end clutch cable is the same concerning the routing and the engine end mounting.
For the clutch cable replacement with a step by step and pics. Please see my following post:
http://www.m109riders.com/forums/showthread.php?t=123531&highlight=gooroo


Remove cable from stock perch
Other things to remember:
Make sure you splice the two electronic wires together for the electronic clutch disengagement that are connected to the stock Suzuki perch. Failing to do so will keep you from starting your bike upon completion because on the stock perch pulling the lever back closes the circuit and allows you to crank the ignition. Pulling the clutch in, to start your bike with the new HD perch will no longer be required after splicing the wires and permanently closing the circuit. I can just see you guys cursing me because your bikes won't start if you make this modification.


You will need to remove the hand piece on the left side of the handles bars to get the stock perch off. The HD perch has two set screws so after you replace the hand piece on the bars, you will be able to mount the HD perch and make the required adjustments for fit.

You may need a standard/metric converter for your mirror depending upon the thread type.
After you have the new HD perch in place you can route the new clutch cable just as you normally would. Mounting the cable at the motor end is the same. Mounting at the new HD perch is easy and self explanatory.
Adjust you slack at the engine side and then fine tune the adjustment with the in line adjuster located 27.5 inches from the perch. This should be located adjacent to the frame and radiator, but hidden behind the plastic radiator shroud. You can use this adjuster to tighten the cable when it stretches some after being used for awhile.

Adjuster is hidden behind shroud
Finished and it works great...hopefully this will solve the breaking problem.

Thanks again to Joe and Mark at Barnett cables and to Lisa and Rick at Horney's Custom Cycle in Florida.
I'll let the rest of you know if I have any issues in the future 8)