[SillyRabbit]

I am thinking about adding risers this winter to get rid of the shoulder pain. Stock handlebars don't really feel uncomfortable at first, but after a couple of hours, my shoulders start to burn. Even with the stock seat, my shoulders give out before my ass. I'm 6' with 34" inseam, so the reach isn't too bad. I just added an ultimate seat and haven't ridden with it. Seems like it pushes you forward some. I also have the v stream sport shield and it seems to direct the air to my shoulders, could be part of the problem. I haven't tried riding without it.

Anyone tried Revo billet risers? They say they add 2" pullback without rise. Seems like getting a full 2" of pullback would help sit up more. All the other risers\spacers I see just extend out 2" at the stock angle. Anyone found off the shelf T bars in black that improve the position better than risers? I read a thread on here about a custom set a member had made. 2" bar with internal wires, looked pretty extreme.

I would replace the cables instead of reroute. Is +3 the best way to go for +2 riser? Who had the best quality +3 cables in black? I usually go with Motion Pro for custom cable.

 

[thevili]

As far as I know, 2" riser extentions do not require new cables. From what I hear you only need to reroute OEM clutch cable a bit differently to avoid it o get stretched when WOT....One member here provided this "how to":

 

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There's my old clutch routing picture again.
thevili is right in that you don't have to use longer cables when you add 2" risers, but you may want to. Install it and see. You can get enough brake hose length by loosening the T block behind the headlight and letting it float. That's on the older models, not sure if that applies to newer ones or not. For the throttle and clutch, you just have to route them where they will reach, which means on the throttles you may need to run them under the risers. I ran like that for a year or two then switched to +3 clutch, throttle and brake lines. I don't have the Revo, but they are Cycle House and all are made similar.

 

[SillyRabbit]

I went with the +2 risers and the +3 cable kit. Probably install over the holiday. Other than using a string to pull the new cables through when removing the stock one, any tips? Seems pretty straight forward change over.

With the rise and then adjusting the bar rotation, will the stock alignment work for the clip-ons? They typically have a little nub that lines them up with a hole in the bottom of the bar. Did you find it necessary to drill new holes?

 

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If you're going to rotate the bars and then rotate the controls, the clutch side tends to hit the high beam flasher switch when you pull the clutch in. It's that little yellow button on the front of the clutch side controls. You can either cut the nub off that locates the controls or drill a new hole. Just something to be aware of as a lot of folks have rotated their controls and then wondered why the high beam light indicator flashed every time they pulled the clutch.

Other than that, it's just a straight forward swap.

 

[Tre]

I went with the +2 risers and the +3 cable kit.

I have some 2" risers I'd like to put on this winter and I think I want to change out the stock cables to +3's. Can you tell me what cables you got and from where? I want to make sure I'm getting exactly what I need.

Thanks!

 

[SillyRabbit]

I ordered the +3" black kit from mean cycles. They also have SS braided.

Meancycles: Motorcycle Accessories

Meancycles.com is your one stop shop for all of your motorcycle accessory needs.

www.meancycles.com

 

[SillyRabbit]

I got around to replacing the risers and installing the new cables and brake lines. The clutch cable is a +3 Motion Pro cable. I find the clutch pull to be pretty stiff now. I assume the cable was lubed, it seems to slide freely in the casing prior to install. The stock setup wasn't a light pull before, but seems excessive now. It took me awhile to get it adjusted for a slight bit of free play and still fully engage the clutch. I thought I had it pretty good, but then it wouldn't release the clutch enough to slide out of 1st gear back into neutral. I was able to get it adjusted so that I could test ride and all went well. Just made a 20 min ride into town for gas and back. I just got the bike last September, so maybe I just don't remember how tight the clutch pull was. My last 4-5 bikes all had hydraulic clutches. My wife had a Gladius for a while. I don't recall the clutch on it being like this.

Is there any other adjustment for the clutch tension besides the cable?

What is the general consensus on the Revo hydraulic cutch? It's been out while now, is it reliable? Are there other options?

 

[Bering_C_Sparky]

Harris Horwitz (BigpappaXCT on the forum) sells a hydraulic clutch kit for the M109R and he is located here in the USA in Maryland.

But for now if your pull seems to be excessively tight, I would disconnect the cable on both ends again and run both top and bottom adjuster in. (loose)
Then insure the cable is moving freely back and forth in the sheath using just your hands.
If it does not move freely then the cable is bound at some point along the run. It should move effortlessly.

If it is good, then reconnect the cable at the bottom side,
Turn the adjuster at the bars all the way in so there is no adjustment given on the bar side and reconnect the cable to the lever.
Now make all your adjustment from the lower side near the arm.
I gave up on trying to measure gap or such for adjustment of the clutch cable long ago.
I just put the lower adjustment where I think it needs to be and then get on the bike, start it, put it in 1st gear and see if the bike tries to creep forward with the clutch lever pulled all the way, while only balancing lightly on my toes.
If it does not try to creep forward a bit while in gear with the clutch lever pulled, then I will loosen the lower adjustment just a bit and try again to see if the bike will creep forward while in gear with the clutch lever pulled in.
Repeat this until you get the bike to creep forward while in gear with the clutch lever pulled all the way in.
Once it starts to creep on you, now you can go the other way and tighten the lower adjuster just a 1/4 turn at a time until the bike no longer creeps forward in gear with the clutch lever pulled.
As soon as you get to that point your clutch is pretty much adjusted where it needs to be.
Make sure all the locking nuts are tight top and bottom and then take the bike for a short ride.
Go slow and stop often to check to see if the bike begins to creep forward again when stopped, in gear, with the clutch lever pulled.
If it does not creep, then you are good to go.
If it does creep, you can go into neutral and make a quick, small adjustment using the adjuster at the adjuster on the bars now.
Make small 1/4 turn adjustments, don't do a lot at one time.
As soon as the bike no longer creeps forward while in gear, with the clutch lever pulled all the way in, then you are done.
In the future as the clutch material wears and the cable stretches' just use the same method to tell when a bit more adjustment is needed.
Pay attention at stops with the bike in gear and clutch lever pulled. If it creeps make a small adjument. If it does not, then you are good.

But you have to get down to where it creeps on you in the initial adjustment, so you know where you are riding that fine line between engaged and disengaged.

Also when you are making your initial adjustments on the bottom, be sure the arm is pushed all the way back. It is held by spring tension, so it should be all the way back without any assistance from you, but be aware to look for this. You don't want to make adjustments pulling the arm out of its default position against the spring tension.

Hopefully that make since.
If not let me know.

BCS
LGB/FJB

 

[SillyRabbit]

Maybe I'm just picky or the cable adjustment is just very touchy on this bike. I ended up staring over, disconnecting both ends and followed your guidelines. It got me pretty close. I've burned through a tank now and think its set as good as or better then before the riser change over.

I routed the cable the same as stock, so it runs between the engine mount hardware. Not sure I am going to change it this point. What is the advantage to routing outside this mount? Something about cable stretching at high rpm?

By the way, THANKS BCS for the tune. The bike is running much better than it did with the power commander.

 

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The theory on the cable routing is running it inside the mount, like stock, allows the engine to rock forward under acceleration and pull on the cable housing. I don't know if that really happens or not, as the engine doesn't seem to move that much. I routed mine outside the mount the first time I changed it and it's been that way since. There's an old picture floating around here of how it is factory routed and how I moved it. I do know that even re-routing, if you hold the clutch lever back a little and accelerate hard, you can still feel the cable being pulled. And that's why it's important to leave plenty of slack in it.

And I do mine a little differently than BCS, I adjust the lower end to about the middle of the range, then do my final adjustment up at the lever. I don't see where it matters as long as you get it adjusted right, as either end is adjusting the cable in the same manner.

 

[HyperPete]

My cable was rubbing on the frame when it was routed inside the frame. It wore through the plastic sheath. I have since replaced the cable and re-routed, and have not had a problem since.

 

[Bering_C_Sparky]

If you added risers and are still using the stock cables this could also effect your clutch if the cable is tight.

Most times if you add risers and use the stock cables, you will need bring the cables in behind the tree instead of in front of the tree.
I tried this once years ago and did not care for it at all. Getting longer cables for the clutch & throttle and longer tubing for the brake lines is the best way to go IMHO.

BCS
LGB/FJB

 

[SillyRabbit]

I replaced all cables and hose with +3.