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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
As we all start to add mods to the bike, we tend to build up grounds. Most start hooking them up to the battery, but that is never a good idea. It is best to ground to the frame itself. When I was cleaning up my Led wiring, I decided to address this issue. I have run it on my bike and Mary's for about 15k miles with no issues.

Here is what I did. When you take the tank off, you will see the flat part of the frame, just forward of the tank bolt. If you look in that area, there is a little plastic piece pushing through it. This is the actual tie that holds the bike's wiring harness in place. I pushed it through the hole and then checked the harness. It was still absolutely so tight that it could not move without major force. This is where I decided to make my ground post.

I scraped the paint away right around this opening and reached underneath and stuck a bolt through the hole. I then put a washer and a nut on and tightened it down to the frame. I then put another flat washer on the nut and started putting the grounds on. You can then put another nut and another washer if you want, or stack them as many as you can spreading them around. There is PLENTY of room as the tank comes nowhere close to it.

This is Giddyup's. I am cleaning up wiring and I stacked on a few more grounds as we were wiring up the air ride. I am going to undo this and clean it up but just took a quick picture so you could see it.

 

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I never realised that...

Thanks BP
 

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Good idea Harris. I made mine where I mounted my extra fuse block
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Good idea Harris. I made mine where I mounted my extra fuse block
That is a great idea as well. My problem was that the 3 of us all have the same fuse block which is plastic, and horizontal. There was no option to ground to it, as you have that extra bolt on yours. For me, I would have had to use the same bolt that the block was using to go into the frame. I didn't want have to try and keep stacking on it.
 

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Great idea Harris. I had my grounds run to an area near my fuse block behind the left side cover, but I like it up there where you can get to it better. Plus there's more room. :bigthumbsup:
 

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Good idea Harris. I made mine where I mounted my extra fuse block
Big-B Is this under your L/R side cover??? and where did you find it??
 

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Ok I have to ask a question. Why do you say it is better to ground to the frame than it is to ground direct to the battery terminal which is grounded directly to the frame anyway?

I understand it on a car because multiple ground locations on a car can cause a ground loop and make for some strange noises coming out of your car stereo.

Most of us don't have a stereo on our bike to worry about so I don't understand why the battery ground is not a great place to end all of your ground wires. Yes you would need to tie a few together so you don't end up with 10 wires stacked up on the ground terminal but other than that what am I missing?
 

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Ok I have to ask a question. Why do you say it is better to ground to the frame than it is to ground direct to the battery terminal which is grounded directly to the frame anyway?

I understand it on a car because multiple ground locations on a car can cause a ground loop and make for some strange noises coming out of your car stereo.

Most of us don't have a stereo on our bike to worry about so I don't understand why the battery ground is not a great place to end all of your ground wires. Yes you would need to tie a few together so you don't end up with 10 wires stacked up on the ground terminal but other than that what am I missing?
well, my short answer would be so when you remove the battery or are working on the battery you don't have 10 grounding wires to work with, just one.;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Ok I have to ask a question. Why do you say it is better to ground to the frame than it is to ground direct to the battery terminal which is grounded directly to the frame anyway?

I understand it on a car because multiple ground locations on a car can cause a ground loop and make for some strange noises coming out of your car stereo.

Most of us don't have a stereo on our bike to worry about so I don't understand why the battery ground is not a great place to end all of your ground wires. Yes you would need to tie a few together so you don't end up with 10 wires stacked up on the ground terminal but other than that what am I missing?
I have always gone to the frame for the stereo issue in cars. I personally live by that, but cannot actually give you the real specifics on why, or if there is a problem. However, I new Square Rounder had a post on it so I dug it up. Hope this helps.

No fire, but it could eventually kill your CPU and in the short term, could cause sensor problems.

DC power runs a 'loop' from your + through your bike, back your main ground wire, to the -

That happens at a particular rate or frequency that your components are built to deal with.

Where you to connect an accessory to the + and the - directly, you are introducing another separate loop that will run at its own frequency.

With 2 or more loops running at different frequencies, you get a condition called a ground loop fault.

In a car, you will hear it as a whine in your speakers that gets louder when you increase the RPMs. With no speakers on the bike, to make electronic impulses something you can detect with your senses, you will never see it.

The problem is that your sensors and CPU can and if they do not know what to do with it, they start to malfunction and can quit working as intended.

Grounding accessories to the bike instead of the - ensures that all power coming back to the battery does so in one loop at one frequency.

I learned all of this after thousands spent on a Firebird I had in my younger days.
 

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Harris, after our conversation i did just like you had in this post. Worked out perfect and have freed up the neg terminal of all grounds, I used a wing nut on top though, of course im not worried its comming off cause its CJ Tight ! On another subject we talked about wireing led turn signals, i got the big bike torpedo led turn signals from DLP. i needed the load equilizer for the rear set of signals but not the front. I did however have to order the extra harness from big bike parts for those 2 wire leds to convert them to our 3 wire system, with the harness i didnt need the loadequilizer on the front turn signals, the harnness worked and now have running and turn signals. Thanx BigPapa for the Tech Support ! :bigthumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Harris, after our conversation i did just like you had in this post. Worked out perfect and have freed up the neg terminal of all grounds, I used a wing nut on top though, of course im not worried its comming off cause its CJ Tight ! On another subject we talked about wireing led turn signals, i got the big bike torpedo led turn signals from DLP. i needed the load equilizer for the rear set of signals but not the front. I did however have to order the extra harness from big bike parts for those 2 wire leds to convert them to our 3 wire system, with the harness i didnt need the loadequilizer on the front turn signals, the harnness worked and now have running and turn signals. Thanx BigPapa for the Tech Support ! :bigthumbsup:
Glad I could help CJ. Raw has the same harness as well to make the led's work. FYI...I absolutely love your tank. Joe did a great job.
 

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Big-B Is this under your L/R side cover??? and where did you find it??
No, it's under the right side cover. Plenty of room on that side and I still have room to mount my compressor for my air ride.
 

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I have always gone to the frame for the stereo issue in cars. I personally live by that, but cannot actually give you the real specifics on why, or if there is a problem. However, I new Square Rounder had a post on it so I dug it up. Hope this helps.
Ok that somewhat makes sense but anything you ground to the negative post is inturn grounded to the frame because the cable you attached it to is grounded to the frame. Other electronics are grounded to the frame in various places and should also cause a ground fault loop. I just can't see how attaching a ground to the frame in the front of the bike, the middle or on the negative is going to make any difference because they all end up going back to the battery via the negative cable anyway. some take the long way and some take the short way.

If a ground fault loop was a real issue then shouldn't every ground need to be made at exactly the same point on the frame? That is what is recommended when installing a high end stereo unit in cars. Make all grounds at the same location. Even though that location is not the same as the ground used by the cars various electronics.

I am not trying to argue this point. I am trying to get a answer that makes sense and I can understand. I have asked this point many times over while doing stereo systmes and nobody can ever give a good reason why. Kickers own technitians told me because that is what they were told LOL.
 

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I think the main reason for grounding to the frame as someone has already posted, is to not have an octopus growing off you battery terminals whether it's the neg or pos side. That was also the reason for me running an extra fuse block. Just too much to run off the pos cable.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Ok that somewhat makes sense but anything you ground to the negative post is inturn grounded to the frame because the cable you attached it to is grounded to the frame. Other electronics are grounded to the frame in various places and should also cause a ground fault loop. I just can't see how attaching a ground to the frame in the front of the bike, the middle or on the negative is going to make any difference because they all end up going back to the battery via the negative cable anyway. some take the long way and some take the short way.

If a ground fault loop was a real issue then shouldn't every ground need to be made at exactly the same point on the frame? That is what is recommended when installing a high end stereo unit in cars. Make all grounds at the same location. Even though that location is not the same as the ground used by the cars various electronics.

I am not trying to argue this point. I am trying to get a answer that makes sense and I can understand. I have asked this point many times over while doing stereo systmes and nobody can ever give a good reason why. Kickers own technitians told me because that is what they were told LOL.
I don't take it as an argument and wondered the same thing. For me, I just live with what I am told when a bunch of people tell me these things, even though it really doesn't make sense. With that being said, I like it off the battery because I don't need a longer battery bolt, the battery area is cleaner, and I don't lose my clock when I add new accessories as I run to the post and to the fuse block. Other then that, it really may not matter. I will get Square Rounder to come in here if he doesn't see the thread as maybe he has more insight on why he thinks it is that way.
 
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