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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My 2006 had never had the drive shaft off and the splines lubbed until today.:redfaced: To tell you the truth, I had avoided this job because I wasn't sure I could get it back together again, even though I had saved this thread as a shortcut on my desktop for years.
http://www.m109riders.com/forums/showthread.php?t=67353&highlight=drive+shaft+splines
I could see myself struggling for hours and not being able to get the parts to mesh. I'm happy to report that my parts had no rust, and slipped back in place in just a few minutes of trying.
The trick for me was getting the drive shaft centered in it's housing by adjusting the 3 loose nuts that hold the hub on. That and folding back the rubber boot toward the front of the bike so I could see in the space. Lifting the secondary housing up in front to miss the gear change lever, pushing in and back, and it slipped right in. I hit the starter a few times to make sure it turned ok, and buttoned it all back up.
As soon as my new tire (my E3 had 2 nails in it:verymad:) gets here I'm back on the road.
Even though mine had no rust, the piece of mind knowing it's covered in marine axle grease was well worth the effort.
 

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This is a new one on me. I assumed the rear end grease took care of all that. So the dif is its own little unit, and no lube goes up the shaft housing? Is that in the periodic maintenance some where? :doorag:
It is it's own thing and no, it is not in the periodic maintenance section.

I greased mine up in 2008 and looked at it again this year and it still looked great. It seems like some of the 9's made on Mondays didn't get lubed very well...LOL. It is a good idea for nothing other than peace of mind to go in there and check/lube it.
 

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While installing my 10/280 I didn't have much of a choice so I lubed the universal joint while reinstalling the drive/driveline along with the 10 inch rear wheel.

-Except I got to do it twice since I left out the spacer the first time around. First time took about an hour, second time - about 15 minutes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Rusty little secret

This is a new one on me. I assumed the rear end grease took care of all that. So the dif is its own little unit, and no lube goes up the shaft housing? Is that in the periodic maintenance some where? :doorag:
Yeah, depending on how much water gets in there, and IF it was lubbed originally, it could be fine like mine, or like this:
http://www.volusiariders.com/viewtopic.php?t=100565
It's any shaft drive bike, not just 109's. Some older BMWs had a grease fitting on the drive housing, not sure why it's not standard or part of the maintenance schedule.
 

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My 2006 had never had the drive shaft off and the splines lubbed until today.:redfaced: To tell you the truth, I had avoided this job because I wasn't sure I could get it back together again, even though I had saved this thread as a shortcut on my desktop for years.
http://www.m109riders.com/forums/showthread.php?t=67353&highlight=drive+shaft+splines
I could see myself struggling for hours and not being able to get the parts to mesh. I'm happy to report that my parts had no rust, and slipped back in place in just a few minutes of trying.
The trick for me was getting the drive shaft centered in it's housing by adjusting the 3 loose nuts that hold the hub on. That and folding back the rubber boot toward the front of the bike so I could see in the space. Lifting the secondary housing up in front to miss the gear change lever, pushing in and back, and it slipped right in. I hit the starter a few times to make sure it turned ok, and buttoned it all back up.
As soon as my new tire (my E3 had 2 nails in it:verymad:) gets here I'm back on the road.
Even though mine had no rust, the piece of mind knowing it's covered in marine axle grease was well worth the effort.
You NEED to also check the splines on the coupler on the rear diff. You will have to remove the snap ring and seal to get the drive shaft out. Mine was NOT lubed at all and was DESTROYED so bad the bike would NOT move. This is NOT at the front of the shaft it is the REAR where it connects to the diff housing. 150.00 in parts. The dealer told me it was NOT to be greased. I used anti-seize on mine and all is good.
 

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Mine was not lubed from factory,replaced under warr. in 2008. Happened again in 2010, pulled it apart, and yup, rusted out again. The seal had not been installed properly, or it was over greased and popped out. Either way, the seal was sitting up in the drive tube, and the spline and coupler were trashed. Oh and guess what? No warranty. According to my dealer, "it was 3 years ago, we dont know if someone else had it apart". $173.00 worth of parts. Think I'll take a look this winter, and relube. $173.00 aint too bad, it was the 2 weeks waiting parts, not to mention my bike broke in the middle of a ride, towing, oh yeah.
 

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Just an interesting little tid bit offered by a local dealer last summer on this subject. My friend has an 06 M109 with approx 30k miles on it now. He made a trip to OCC last year and on his way home he had a clunking/jerking issue everytime he rolled on the throttle. Come to find out there was no grease in this area and the splines were stripped.

After he paid to have a new shaft put in I asked the dealer if there was any preventive maintenance he recommended to be performed to avoid this issue. (I already knew about this issue from this board) The service manager of the Suzuki shop tells me "nope, nothing you can do about this problem. It happens alot so you can expect it to happen too"

I was blown away by his stupidity!! This was the service manager telling me there was nothing I could do to avoid this problem. Being a automotive service manager myself, if it were me, I would have been telling the customer, "hell yeah, bring the bike in and we'll check it out and put some lube in there" :dontknow:

So much for expecting the dealer to know anything about preventative maintenance!!
 

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Just an interesting little tid bit offered by a local dealer last summer on this subject. My friend has an 06 M109 with approx 30k miles on it now. He made a trip to OCC last year and on his way home he had a clunking/jerking issue everytime he rolled on the throttle. Come to find out there was no grease in this area and the splines were stripped.

After he paid to have a new shaft put in I asked the dealer if there was any preventive maintenance he recommended to be performed to avoid this issue. (I already knew about this issue from this board) The service manager of the Suzuki shop tells me "nope, nothing you can do about this problem. It happens alot so you can expect it to happen too"

I was blown away by his stupidity!! This was the service manager telling me there was nothing I could do to avoid this problem. Being a automotive service manager myself, if it were me, I would have been telling the customer, "hell yeah, bring the bike in and we'll check it out and put some lube in there" :dontknow:

So much for expecting the dealer to know anything about preventative maintenance!!
Nothing new to me that the dealers do not know as much as the board knows. I would say when ever you change your rear tire to do it. Kind of like repacking the wheel bearings on an older rear wheel drive car when you do the brakes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
Now you tell me!

You NEED to also check the splines on the coupler on the rear diff. You will have to remove the snap ring and seal to get the drive shaft out. Mine was NOT lubed at all and was DESTROYED so bad the bike would NOT move. This is NOT at the front of the shaft it is the REAR where it connects to the diff housing. 150.00 in parts. The dealer told me it was NOT to be greased. I used anti-seize on mine and all is good.
Well now I'm confused. I looked up the diagram on this site:
http://www.alpha-sports.com/suzuki_parts.htm
I've looked at it before, and always thought the rear section of the drive shaft (#2) was lubbed by the oil in the rear hub.The drawing shows the snap ring and seal to the rear of the drive shaft. But this cannot be right, it holds the drive shaft in the hub. I just had this unit in my hand. I'm sure you're right. My tire showed up today, so I'll have to think about this.
I would like to change this seal if I remove it, and use a seal driver to reinstall it, neither of which I have at the moment.
I looked again, now I see it. The spring, seal and clip slide on the shaft before you insert it as a unit into the coupler #7.

Live and learn. Thanks for the tip.
 

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Well now I'm confused. I looked up the diagram on this site:
http://www.alpha-sports.com/suzuki_parts.htm
I've looked at it before, and always thought the rear section of the drive shaft (#2) was lubbed by the oil in the rear hub.The drawing shows the snap ring and seal to the rear of the drive shaft. But this cannot be right, it holds the drive shaft in the hub. I just had this unit in my hand. I'm sure you're right. My tire showed up today, so I'll have to think about this.
I would like to change this seal if I remove it, and use a seal driver to reinstall it, neither of which I have at the moment.
It is not lubed by the oil in the rear hub. It should be greased from to to time. And you are correct by needing a new seal every time you do it. #2 sits inside #16 and that is where the damage occurs.
 

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This may not work for all, but I lube mine with a needle adapter on my grease gun. I shove the needle down past the seal then apply grease. Move it over a couple splines and do it again. You can feel the needle fall between the splines on the hub and shaft so you know where to squeeze. The shaft moves in and out enough that it eventually distributes the grease. I've done mine twice in 21,000 miles, once right after I got it and again last year.

It saves a few bucks by not having to replace the seal, and it seems to get plenty of grease in it.
 

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I used anti-seize because it is an extreme pressure lube and will not wash out. I just packed it full and reassembled it. I took it apart last winter and it looked new.:bigthumbsup::bigthumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
How?

OK, this may be a dumb question, but how does water get past the seal on the hub end?
I see the other end of the shaft has no seal, and is only protected by a rubber boot that is not waterproof. In addition, this end moves up and down with the suspention, while the other end is fixed.
So it seems that one end is protected, while the other is semi open to the elements or a good hosing. Just wondering.
 

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OK, this may be a dumb question, but how does water get past the seal on the hub end?
I see the other end of the shaft has no seal, and is only protected by a rubber boot that is not waterproof. In addition, this end moves up and down with the suspention, while the other end is fixed.
So it seems that one end is protected, while the other is semi open to the elements or a good hosing. Just wondering.
CBR, it shouldn't get by it but it can. When I had the air ride on mine and would lower it all the way down, the boot on the input end would pull off. It's formed to kind of match the angle of the driveshaft at stock height, and as you go lower it can pull it off.

That's the reason I pulled mine off and greased it the first time. I got caught in a hard rain and a few days later I had the bike on a lift. With the Kewl Metal air ride, you can lift the tire up into the fender once you have it on a lift, just like you would lower it. I did that, which raised the shaft housing above level, and noticed water leaking out of the boot.

I'm sure if the water stayed in the housing very long it could work past the seal on the hub end of it. In most cases the boot should stay sealed tight enough to keep water out of the shaft housing, but they can come off.
 

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Yeah, depending on how much water gets in there, and IF it was lubbed originally, it could be fine like mine, or like this:
http://www.volusiariders.com/viewtopic.php?t=100565
It's any shaft drive bike, not just 109's. Some older BMWs had a grease fitting on the drive housing, not sure why it's not standard or part of the maintenance schedule.
:eek::eek::eek::eek::eek::eek::eek::eek: I pray mine doesn't look like that. I will just ride till it breaks if it does. That is just horrible.
 
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