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Drain the front brake system:
Remove the bleeder screw cap from the right caliper (or left if you prefer). Place an 8mm 6-point box-end wrench over the bleeder screw. Place the Mityvac suction tube over the end of the bleeder screw. Pump the Mityvac to build a vacuum and then open the bleeder screw taking care not to jar the steering (master cylinder is uncovered and full of brake fluid!). Keep pumping and pumping until the Mityvac reservoir is 2/3 full. Close the bleeder screw. Discard the old brake fluid from Mityvac reservoir. Pump the Mityvac to build a vacuum and then open the bleeder screw. Repeat this procedure until no more brake fluid is sucked through bleeder screw. Close the bleeder screw. Repeat procedure on opposite caliper. Opposite caliper should take considerably less time as the upper hose and master cylinder reservoir were sucked dry on first side.

Check the master cylinder reservoir. It should be mostly empty. Sop up any remaining brake fluid with a paper towel taking care not to leave paper towel remnants in reservoir.

Remove old front brake lines:
You will be removing the upper brake line, distribution block, right and left lower brake lines all as one single piece. You will also be removing the distribution block bracket.

Snip the wire tie that holds the right control cables to the right brake line taking care to not cut the rubber o-ring. Keep the o-ring and remember its original location as you will be wire-tying this back later.

Remove the single bolt holding the distribution block to the triple tree by running a ratcheted socket through the access hole. Pull the left and right brake lines from their wire retainers (wire guides). Then, remove the distribution block bracket or it will eventually cut your throttle cables.

Get 3-4 paper towels ready to catch some brake fluid. Remove the brake line banjo bolt. Catch the wayward brake fluid with the paper towel. Make sure you know where the two banjo bolt washers are (one may be stuck to the caliper).

Pull the brake line away from the lower bracket and then pull it through the wire guide connected to the fender stay. Wad the paper towels up around the brake line end and secure with a rubber band (unless you don’t care about brake fluid on your tires and paint).

If you did not see two banjo bolt washers on the old brake line banjo bolt, one is probably stuck to the caliper. To remove, use a small screwdriver, dental pick or my crusty-trusty standby… the ice pick. Take care to not scratch the mating surface behind the washer.

Repeat brake line banjo bolt removal procedure on other side of bike and leave lower lines hanging.

Pull the brake lines from the upper bracket and remove the bracket (you will temporarily need the space later).

Pull the lower brake lines through the holes in the big, ugly, black plastic rear cover to the front fairing. Get another big wad of paper towels and remove the upper brake line bolt connected to the underside of the master cylinder. You can now completely remove the entire assembly of old lines.

Install new front brake lines:
Hopefully, you still have your new brake lines laid out on the floor as illustrated in the Pre-installation section above. Start at the master cylinder and work your way down to the calipers. Connect both lines to the master cylinder using three of the copper washers. DO NOT tighten more than finger-tight! Compare what you have to this photo. Note the washer locations relative to the line ends. Note the direction, angle and alignment of the ends relative to the master cylinder. The end of the right line must be snug against the stop that is cast into the bottom of the master cylinder. Note the brake lines position relative to the control lines.

You need to decide how you are going to route your new lines down to the calipers. Some riders route their new lines to the outside of the risers and some route to the inside (OEM location). I initially routed mine to the inside following the same path as the old lines.

---> update - 13MAR2007: The initial routing to the inside worked fine, but I later rerouted the lines to the outside of the risers to give the lines an extra 1 1/2" of slack in anticipation of Big Joe's new custom +1" risers.

Feed the lines through the wire guides, but do not cinch down the guides. Leave everything loose at this point.

Feed the lines through the bottom bracket, but do not cinch down tight. Leave everything loose at this point.

Feed the new left line through the guides connected to the left fender stay (I left these guides installed in order to prevent the brake lines from chaffing the paint off my fender). Run a new banjo bolt through a copper washer, the line end, another copper washer and screw the bolt into the caliper (finger-tight only!). Hold the line end against the caliper casting stop as you are finger-tightening the banjo bolt.

Repeat installation on opposite side.

...end part 2 of 3.

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