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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
If you have never replaced brake lines or bled brakes, please read this how-to from start to finish before even contemplating this mod. If after reading this how-to, you do not feel comfortable tackling the job yourself, DO NOT TRY! Take your bike and lines to a mechanic. Your brakes are probably the most important system on your bike. Unknowingly mess them up and someone will be scraping you off the pavement. If you are experienced at brake line R&R and bleeding, this mod should take about an hour. If you are anal about wrenching or have not tackled brake jobs before, this mod will take 2-4 hours.

What you will need:
Goodridge front brake line kit (#SU2877-FCH) http://directlineparts.com/product.asp?pid=6026
2 sealed 12 oz. bottles of DOT4 brake fluid
1 small wire tie
Towel
Shop rags or paper towels
Rubber bands
Common tools (wrenches, ratchet, sockets, extensions, slip-joint pliers, Phillips screw driver)
Highly recommended tools (Mityvac brake bleeder, torque wrench with a scale that includes 20 ft. lbs.)

Pre-installation:
Sit on your bike. Grab a big handful of front brake. Note the squishiness and amount of lever travel. Try to remember this because you will better appreciate the difference when you have finished this mod.

Decide beforehand whether you are going to do 2-person brake bleeding or 1-person vacuum pump brake bleeding. I suggest purchasing or borrowing a Mityvac brake bleeder so you can do this job alone. If you spill brake fluid all over your bike, you will have only yourself to blame. :verymad: The two current basic Mityvac models are 06820 (~$30) and 07000 (~$35). I use a 10 year old model 06820. Model 07000 adds a vacuum gauge. sears.com and amazon.com sell both models for less than the previously mentioned prices. Check out http://www.mityvac.com/pages/products_hvpk.asp for Mityvac illustrations and detailed instructions.


Make sure you have 2 sealed bottles of DOT4 brake fluid. You will only need one bottle, but buy two in case of an unplanned spill. Do not assume the bottles are unopened; remove the caps and ensure the bottles are sealed as brake fluid easily absorbs moisture from the air making it ineffective. Do not mix brands. I use readily available and inexpensive Castrol GTLMA on the street and track.


Before you remove your old front brake lines, ensure your new front brake lines are correct. You don’t want to remove the old only to find out the new is incorrect. Check the part number.




Make sure your kit includes 2 single banjo bolts, 1 double banjo bolt and 7 copper washers.


Lay the new front brake lines out on the floor and see if they match up to this photo. Pay particular attention to the shape and alignment of the fittings (hose ends), the length and left/right identification of each line, and the location of the washers. If your lines do not look the same, they probably will not fit. Leave your assembled lines in a traffic-free place until you are ready for the installation step.






Remove the front fairing (headlight nacelle):
Leave the bike on the side stand. You will understand why later. Remove the front fairing (headlight nacelle) by removing the Allen screws and push pins (one of each on each side).


Remove the front fairing push pins by pushing the center until they “pop”. I used my favorite tool, an ice pick.




Pull the front fairing straight forward and disconnect the headlight harness by pulling the headlight plug.


Retrieve your push pins. The center pins will be, what else, pushed in.


Push the center pins out so they protrude past the head and set aside.


Remove master cylinder cap:
Place an absorbent towel over the tank to catch accidental spills (brake fluid destroys paint!). If you do not level your master cylinder, brake fluid will drool over your bike when you remove the master cylinder cap, so... leave the bike on the side stand and position the bars so that master cylinder is level to the ground. I was unable to level the master cylinder with the bike level on a jack.


Loosen the two Phillips head screws and remove the master cylinder cap.


Remove the white plastic diaphragm plate.


Remove the black rubber diaphragm.


If the black rubber diaphragm is malformed, compress/accordion it.




...end part 1 of 3.
 

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Re: Goodrich braided stainless steel front brake lines Part 1 of 3 (dial-up users be

:bigthumbsup: :doorag: :super:
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Re: Goodrich braided stainless steel front brake lines Part 1 of 3 (dial-up user

in the middle of splitting into 3 sections because the amount of graphics is blowing browser memory...
 

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Thanks for the outstanding post. IMHO this is the most important of all the modifications/upgrades you will ever perform on you machine. The improvement in overall breaking performance is very noticeable when compared, as you have mentioned, to the stock break lines. There is little if any "sponginess" in the front breaking system. Coupled with the front "radial brake design" your machine will stop like a freight train when both front and rear breaks are applied!
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Re: Goodridge braided stainless steel front brake lines Part 1 of 3 (dial-up bew

bob109 said:
IMHO this is the most important of all the modifications/upgrades you will ever perform on you machine.
Yep! It's usually the 1st mod I make to any bike I buy. :bigthumbsup:
 

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Re: Goodridge braided stainless steel front brake lines Part 1 of 3 (dial-up bew

Dude, this is one of the most well written and photoed how to's I've seen so far. Excellent job. Now I really think I can do this mod to my bike. I was very heasitant before because I didn't want to F up and ruin my brakes. Great work.

Mike
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Re: Goodridge braided stainless steel front brake lines Part 1 of 3 (dial-up bew

Thanks for the kudos. Glad I could be of some help. :bigthumbsup:
 

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Re: Goodridge braided stainless steel front brake lines Part 1 of 3 (dial-up bew

Medic1210 said:
Dude, this is one of the most well written and photoed how to's I've seen so far. Excellent job. Now I really think I can do this mod to my bike. I was very heasitant before because I didn't want to F up and ruin my brakes. Great work.

Mike
I agree. I don't consider myself a wrencher, but have some skills. Your documentation and attention to detail has given me the confidence to do this all important mod. Tks for taking the time and hookin' us up! :bigthumbsup:
 

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Thanks
 
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