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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 2008 M109R. It has Vance and Hines big shots on it when I bought it with a fuelpak fuel processor already installed. Also factory air filters.... Well, I've recently rebuilt the whole thing pretty much, and I have K&N air filters with freedom performance racing exhaust. It's running very rich and backfires on the deceleration with flames. Lol. I'm going to attach what Vance and Hines emailed me earlier today. I don't understand what I'm looking at to be honest. I've always used power commanders and have it tuned on a dyno. So ANY help would be greatly appreciated!
 

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I have a 2008 M109R. It has Vance and Hines big shots on it when I bought it with a fuelpak fuel processor already installed. Also factory air filters.... Well, I've recently rebuilt the whole thing pretty much, and I have K&N air filters with freedom performance racing exhaust. It's running very rich and backfires on the deceleration with flames. Lol. I'm going to attach what Vance and Hines emailed me earlier today. I don't understand what I'm looking at to be honest. I've always used power commanders and have it tuned on a dyno. So ANY help would be greatly appreciated!
Remove the clear cover and set the values for each step as they've told you. Unfortunately they don't tell you what the values are or the ranges , but it's doing the same thing as a PC.
 

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I'm not familiar with that unit, but I think I know what they are asking you to do. Apparently the unit has 36 modes, with each mode needing a certain value. I don't know if the modes represent different rpm points or what.

It looks like you select the mode, then enter the value listed below that mode. If the mode has no value listed (N/A) then you ignore that mode. Notice in the screenshot there is a button to the left of the Mode window that you use to select the mode, then two buttons to the right of the Value window to adjust the value up or down. Some of the values are negative numbers, so you adjust it down until the dash between the two windows illuminates to show a negative value, or instance there are a -2 and a -6 in the values list, so the dash should be illuminated for those and the value adjusted to the value it shows.

I guess the positive numbers are adding fuel for that mode, and the negative numbers are taking away fuel.

If that doesn't work for you, think about contacting Bering_C_Sparky (BCS) and have him do a custom ECU flash for you. His flash will do a lot more than a fuel tuner.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks guys! I'll let you know how it goes. I'll get into it tomorrow morning.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I did everything that they told me to do and the FI light is still on. So I guess I'll get a power commander and have it tuned.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
No. I don't have the special tool to check that at home. I just know that the FI light was not on before I changed the pipes and put the air filters on. It has the fuelpak processor that is basically made for Vance and Hines pipes. Fuelpak has sent me a couple of different maps but neither of them work. Tomorrow I'm going to take it off all together. Back when I had my 06 109, I had Broward motorsports pipes on it with K&N spiked air filters and I didn't have any fuel processor on it and it ran awesome. So I'm going to try the same thing with this one and see what happens. If nothing else I'll just put a power commander on it and have it tuned.
 

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No. I don't have the special tool to check that at home. I just know that the FI light was not on before I changed the pipes and put the air filters on.
You don't need a special tool to check the FI codes, just a short wire or a paper clip. Here's a link on how to do it, or search for FI Light and you will find several others. Just remember the light has to be on to pull the codes, so don't shut the switch off. You can kill it with the kill switch then pull the codes.

And this is a dumb question, but when you put the pipes on did you either use the SET dummy cam or an exhaust servo eliminator (servo buddy)?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Ok thanks man. I'll check it out. And I used the cam that came with the pipes. The solenoid and cam are working fine when you start the bike. I checked that first thing when this happened because I had a solenoid be a problem before with another bike.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
You don't need a special tool to check the FI codes, just a short wire or a paper clip. Here's a link on how to do it, or search for FI Light and you will find several others. Just remember the light has to be on to pull the codes, so don't shut the switch off. You can kill it with the kill switch then pull the codes.

And this is a dumb question, but when you put the pipes on did you either use the SET dummy cam or an exhaust servo eliminator (servo buddy)?
I actually found this thread before I posted this one, and I can see the instructions but there are no pictures at all. But I think that I can feel my way through it.
 

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I actually found this thread before I posted this one, and I can see the instructions but there are no pictures at all. But I think that I can feel my way through it.
🤞 if you read the whole thread, you will find a video on similar bike,
and also original pictures which other members posted later,,,

Cheers 🍻
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
You don't need a special tool to check the FI codes, just a short wire or a paper clip. Here's a link on how to do it, or search for FI Light and you will find several others. Just remember the light has to be on to pull the codes, so don't shut the switch off. You can kill it with the kill switch then pull the codes.

And this is a dumb question, but when you put the pipes on did you either use the SET dummy cam or an exhaust servo eliminator (servo buddy)?
Ok here is where I am now... I removed the fuelpak processor and put everything back to the way it comes from the factory. Even shorted up a couple of loose points, nothing serious just did it since it was accessible. Fi light still comes on and it still backfires. Put a paper clip in and checked the code and it read C00.... But the FI light stays off when the paper clip is still in position but when I take it off the light comes back on. I installed the cam that came with the pipes and it turns like it's supposed to when I start the bike. And it runs great except for the backfire on the deceleration. But one thing I noticed was that when the code comes up the hash to the left of the code is at the top of the code and when I twist the throttle it doesn't move at all.... This is my 3rd 109 and I've done all kinds of things to these bikes and I've never had this problem. The one thing that I'm not familiar with is the throttle position.... Or that sensor. I'm just lost with this one fellas...
 

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Ok here is where I am now... I removed the fuelpak processor and put everything back to the way it comes from the factory. Even shorted up a couple of loose points, nothing serious just did it since it was accessible. Fi light still comes on and it still backfires. Put a paper clip in and checked the code and it read C00.... But the FI light stays off when the paper clip is still in position but when I take it off the light comes back on. I installed the cam that came with the pipes and it turns like it's supposed to when I start the bike. And it runs great except for the backfire on the deceleration. But one thing I noticed was that when the code comes up the hash to the left of the code is at the top of the code and when I twist the throttle it doesn't move at all.... This is my 3rd 109 and I've done all kinds of things to these bikes and I've never had this problem. The one thing that I'm not familiar with is the throttle position.... Or that sensor. I'm just lost with this one fellas...
If the FI light is on when the bike is running then you can for sure get a code different than C-00 if the procedure is carried out correctly.
Start the bike, while it is idling look to see that the FI light is on, if is then install the jumper without turning the bike off and you should see a code other than C-00 appear.
You must get the correct fault code to appear before you will know what is causing the fault.

As for the TP hash mark being off......get a copy of the service manual, it has step by step instructions for adjusting the TP sensor. Its pretty much just loosening a set screw, turning the TP sensor a bit while measuring the output with a multimeter, then locking the sensor back down after you reach the correct adjustment point.

But before you begin to make adjutants to the TP, you will want to pull the correct fault code and correct the fault that is causing the FI indicator to annunciate. (This should be the first thing you address before making any other adjustments)

BCS
 
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