The bike would not turn over if the kill switch was the problem.
https://i.postimg.cc/WbjWWmrh/Brown-connector-under-the-tank.jpgCheck the brown connector plug under the tank, where the pump wiring plugs in. Could be you shoved a pin out when plugging the new tank back in. It's happened to more than one on here.
The brown connector looks solid to me. I still have the tank lifted up with the brown connector plugged in. Which exact wire goes to the fuel pump on the connector? I just charged the battery, but I don't think that is the problem? I haven't tried the fully charged battery yet, but I'm thinking there is something faulty with the relay. Maybe a fully charged battery will make the relay click?https://i.postimg.cc/WbjWWmrh/Brown-connector-under-the-tank.jpgCheck the brown connector plug under the tank, where the pump wiring plugs in. Could be you shoved a pin out when plugging the new tank back in. It's happened to more than one on here.
View attachment 389962
Make sure that (even the connector is solid) there are not any of the wires pushedThe brown connector looks solid to me. I still have the tank lifted up with the brown connector plugged in. Which exact wire goes to the fuel pump on the connector? I just charged the battery, but I don't think that is the problem? I haven't tried the fully charged battery yet, but I'm thinking there is something faulty with the relay. Maybe a fully charged battery will make the relay click?
I already understood to check the wires and none are loose.Make sure that (even the connector is solid) there are not any of the wires pushedThe brown connector looks solid to me. I still have the tank lifted up with the brown connector plugged in. Which exact wire goes to the fuel pump on the connector? I just charged the battery, but I don't think that is the problem? I haven't tried the fully charged battery yet, but I'm thinking there is something faulty with the relay. Maybe a fully charged battery will make the relay click?
out from the side where wires enter the connector. Both halves of the connector,
male and female.
Picture is courtesy of Kazimodo, member here.
It isn't the battery because I tried it fully charged. I haven't checked the yellow red wire yet, but I'm pretty sure it won't light up when I test it. I still think it is the relay, but it was clicking when I tested it off the bike. The coil part of the relay isn't getting any juice when on the bike. I ordered the relay but I'm still waiting for it to come. I'll figure out something tomorrow after I test the yellow red wire.If the battery is strong enough to turn the bike over it has enough juice to pull in a small relay coil, so chances are its not your battery.
Have you confirmed that you are not getting voltage on the yellow wire with red tracer on the brown connector under the tank before you switch out the relay.
If you are getting voltage on the line side of connector then the relay is working fine.
Then check to see if you are getting voltage on the pump side of the brown connector. If you have voltage on one side and not the other then you know its a problem within the electrical connector.
Before performing this test I would remove the fuel line from the tank, then run a piece of hose from the tank barb into a bucket.
This way you know there is no pressure on the line and the pump should be on the entire time. The pump circuit will open when the pressure cut out is reached.
I am pretty sure if the fuel line is disconnected from the tank with an open hose into a bucket the pump should stay on as long as the key and kill switch are on. But if you do not get voltage you may want to have someone turn the bike over while you check voltage on each side of the connector just to be sure.
If you find you do not have voltage on either side of the connector on the yellow wire with red tracer, then pull a spark plug and confirm you are getting spark. If you are also not getting spark this will lead us to look in a different direction.
A service manual (wiring diagram) and test light will help you greatly to troubleshoot this issue.
After testing the yellow wire with red tracer, it isn't getting power just like I figured. I ran a jumper wire from the battery positive straight to the yellow wire with red tracer with brown connector plugged in, and I could hear the fuel pump priming. My question is, could a bad relay stop the yellow wire with the red tracer from seeing power? Anyone have any idea why that wire isn't seeing power? All of the fuses are lighting up with the test light.[/QUOTE
So now check to see if the relay coil circuit is getting voltage when the fuel pump is called.
The yellow wire with black tracer is 12v+ and the orange wire with white tracer is 12v- for the fuel pump relay coil.
Both of the 12v+ and 12v- conductors to the fuel pump relay coil can be opened by the ECU so you have to confirm you have voltage across these two wires.
Did you ever check to see if you are getting spark to your plugs?
The fuel pump relay and and ignition coils share a common 12v- which can also be opened by the ECU as I mentioned above.
If you do not have spark then your problem could the tip over sensor or the ECU can also open this circuit if there is a problem with 2 injector or ignition circuits.
Knowing if you also have spark or not will help you diagnose this problem better.
If you have not already, take a look at the wiring diagram for these circuits and logically deducing the cause of this problem will become clearer for you.
Just like the kill switch you asked about above, the side stand switch is in series with the starter relay.I just tested the kickstand and clutch sensor. The clutch read 0 when pulled in, but the kickstand read 66.5 - 66.7 with kickstand in up position. That means the kickstand sensor is bad, right?
I have a pretty good grasp on the situation I assure you and understand fully that your fuel pump relay is not activating.Spark isn't the problem. The fuel pump relay isn't receiving a signal to the yellow red wire. Something is cutting off power to the pump. Right now it seems like it could be the ecu?
I'm starting to suspect the ecu. I tried bypassing the kickstand switch, but it didn't work. Something is preventing power from getting to the yellow wire with the red tracer. Maybe it is the diode on the ignition not supplying 9 volts?Just like the kill switch you asked about above, the side stand switch is in series with the starter relay.I just tested the kickstand and clutch sensor. The clutch read 0 when pulled in, but the kickstand read 66.5 - 66.7 with kickstand in up position. That means the kickstand sensor is bad, right?
You previously said the bike will turn over but will not start, so if that is the case the side stand switch and all other components that are in series with the starter relay coil are working fine and cannot be responsible for the issue you are having.
I've already looked at the tos sensor. I didn't test it but I unplugged it, plugged it back in and made sure the arrow was pointing up. I will give it another look.I have a pretty good grasp on the situation I assure you and understand fully that your fuel pump relay is not activating.Spark isn't the problem. The fuel pump relay isn't receiving a signal to the yellow red wire. Something is cutting off power to the pump. Right now it seems like it could be the ecu?
Have a look at the attachment below and hopefully a light bulb will come on and you will will see how knowing if you also have spark is good troubleshooting information.
This may not end up being your issue but determining if you have spark can either rule it out or help point you in the correct direction.