[Mr Sandman]

Got my chrome front end from Jerry, thank you, including chrome calipers. Put everything back together...no prob including stainless brake lines. Attempting to bleed with a MityVac. Left side bled fine....right side not so well. As many times as I bleed I keep getting air. Read all the links on this and I still can't get it done. Teflon taped the bleedervalves. I did not fill the calipers before install and it seems like the inside of the caliper might be the problem.

Any suggestions? Thanks Guys.

 

[rynosback]

Were the calipers rebuilt with new cups and seals?

 

[Mr Sandman]

Nope. Jerry said I could reuse them with no prob. Guess not huh Ryno..:dontknow:

 

[Mr Sandman]

Also....... I have absolutly no leaking anywhere.

 

[Square Rounder]

reusing the cups is not problem as long as you got them out in tact, but you realy should replace the seals. Seals for both of the front and for the rear cost me about $30 at my dealer.

 

[rynosback]

I look at the whole picture.

Master cylinder - un-Chromed
Brake lines - replaced , You have the brass washers in place and torqued to spec.
Calipers - chromed - You should not need teflon tape for the bleeders. So that should leave the piston cups/seals or the seal between the two half's of the calipers.

Hope this helps.

 

[Mr Sandman]

reusing the cups is not problem as long as you got them out in tact, but you realy should replace the seals. Seals for both of the front and for the rear cost me about $30 at my dealer.

Thanks. I guess I should have done that in the first place. At first I thought it might be because I didnt fill the calipers after putting them back together.

 

[Mr Sandman]

I look at the whole picture.

Master cylinder - un-Chromed
Brake lines - replaced , You have the brass washers in place and torqued to spec.
Calipers - chromed - You should not need teflon tape for the bleeders. So that should leave the piston cups/seals or the seal between the two half's of the calipers.

Hope this helps.

Master Cylinder....Chromed

Brake lines....All washered up and torqued to spec

Calipers must be the prob

Yes all of this helps. Thats what make this forum great.

 

[biscuitpimp]

keep trying. i replaced my master cylinder and brake lines and it seemed like it took forever to get them bled. you should have a leak if something is wrong with the caliper.

 

[L.T.T.]

keep trying. i replaced my master cylinder and brake lines and it seemed like it took forever to get them bled. you should have a leak if something is wrong with the caliper.

:agree:.. sometimes it's a hump to get them bled correctly....Grab yourself a vacuum bleeder like this and you'll have it done in half the time.. excellent tool..

 

[Mr Sandman]

:agree:.. sometimes it's a hump to get them bled correctly....Grab yourself a vacuum bleeder like this and you'll have it done in half the time.. excellent tool..

That is exactly what I have been using.

 

[L.T.T.]

That is exactly what I have been using.

Your doing each caliper seperately right?

 

[Mr Sandman]

Your doing each caliper seperately right?

Absolutly......

 

[L.T.T.]

Hmm, strange one... If you keep getting air i guess there could always be a possibility it's getting in through the cup seals..... Did you try pumping the brake and seeing if there is any fluid loss anywhere?

 

[Mr Sandman]

Hmm, strange one... If you keep getting air i guess there could always be a possibility it's getting in through the cup seals..... Did you try pumping the brake and seeing if there is any fluid loss anywhere?

Sure did. No fluid loss at all. Brakes just won't pump up. Very little resistance whnn pumping. Handle goes all the way to grip.

 

[L.T.T.]

Sorry bro, sounds like your doing everything correct.. You have me puzzled without being there in person..My only suggestion would be to just keep bleeding..... If it helps your bike looks bad azz.. :bigthumbsup:

 

[Zoom]

It may be air in the master cylinder instead of the calipers.

I don't know if this works on our master cylinder, but this has worked for me on other bikes. Pull the brake lever back and zip tie it to the grip and leave it overnight. Turn the bars to the left so the caliper is up. Sometimes the air will bleed out of the master cylinder on it's own.

 

[lostrider]

I just did the very same job new chrome calipers and chrome master. I rebuilt the master with the Suzuki rebuild kit which consisted of a spring, cup, rod and dust seal. I really do not like reusing seals or brake components once they have been removed. I can tell you it took me a long time to get fluid down to the new calipers. I am old school and do the old pump and dump. I finally removed the bleeder valves and poured some dot 4 directly into the calipers. Worked perfectly. I did the pump and dump again and got fluid right away with air. After a few cycles of pump and dump I had a decent brake lever. Let it sit awhile and refilled the master, back to pump and dump and now the brakes are perfect. It did take some time.

I do not think you have a leak if you're not seeing any fluid coming out anywhere. You're just not getting any fluid into the calipers. Pull the lines at the calipers and see if you have fluid to that point. If so, your master is doing its job. Then try to put some fluid through the bleeder valves very slowly (it won't take much). It will take some time but stick with it before you go tearing apart the calipers. I will tell you if you have a leak it will present and if it does not, you're just wasting time and money changing everything out because you will still have a hell of a time bleeding the brakes from all new empty pieces. Personally, like I said when it comes to brakes I would have replaced and did replace the seals and entire guts on the master.

 

[Square Rounder]

I have the same bleeder.

Here is an issue I discovered and it may be your problem:

That type of bleeder is for doing several jobs and can produce WAY more vacuum than you need to bleed brakes.

The tube that goes over the bleeder bolt is only air tight to a certain degree.

I now skip the ends that are for bleeding and attach the tube directly. I then take a small hose clamp and tighten it over the tube so I get a super seal.

Try that and if you still get bubbles then :dontknow:


Oh yeah. It is possible to have a leak big enough to get air in and not spew fluid out when you pump the brakes. It would show up as a very slow ooz that would show up throughout the season.

 

[nbnight]

I just did the very same job new chrome calipers and chrome master. I rebuilt the master with the Suzuki rebuild kit which consisted of a spring, cup, rod and dust seal. I really do not like reusing seals or brake components once they have been removed. I can tell you it took me a long time to get fluid down to the new calipers. I am old school and do the old pump and dump. I finally removed the bleeder valves and poured some dot 4 directly into the calipers. Worked perfectly. I did the pump and dump again and got fluid right away with air. After a few cycles of pump and dump I had a decent brake lever. Let it sit awhile and refilled the master, back to pump and dump and now the brakes are perfect. It did take some time.

I do not think you have a leak if you're not seeing any fluid coming out anywhere. You're just not getting any fluid into the calipers. Pull the lines at the calipers and see if you have fluid to that point. If so, your master is doing its job. Then try to put some fluid through the bleeder valves very slowly (it won't take much). It will take some time but stick with it before you go tearing apart the calipers. I will tell you if you have a leak it will present and if it does not, you're just wasting time and money changing everything out because you will still have a hell of a time bleeding the brakes from all new empty pieces. Personally, like I said when it comes to brakes I would have replaced and did replace the seals and entire guts on the master.

:agreeull the lines at the callipers.