Frequently asked questions...

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Commonly asked questions:

Q: When do I need fuel management?
A: When you change both your pipe, and intake. This includes "Ducks Mod", and modifying the stock exhaust, in any way. Some report that the bike runs better with fuel management, even when completely stock, but you need it when you modify both intakes (not including just K&N filters), and exhaust. You can safely run your bike without fuel management, if you only change one, or the other.

Q: What is the best fuel management?
A: There are several choices for fuel management. The correct answer is which ever one suits you the best.
1. Cobra fi2000r, is great for self tuning, and is very economical. It can add fuel, but cannot remove fuel. Alot of people have great success with this unit.
2. Cobra power Pro is a new auto tuner, has been out for 6 months but has great reviews so far.
3. Power Commander III USB, is best when used for a bike that you want to have DYNO tuned, and pull every bit of horse power out of the bike. If you were to change intakes, or exhaust, it is recommended to have bike re-tuned. There are generic tunes for several set ups, but for optimal performance, a dyno tune is required.
4. Power Commander V w/auto tune, and B&B auto-tuner. These units introduce a oxygen sensor to the exhaust. This requires holes drilled into exhaust, and a "bung" being welded onto pipe. These units are a bit more expensive, but continuously tune your bike while you ride it. So as the conditions change, so does your air fuel mixture.
5. There are others out there as well, but these seem to be the most popular.

Q: Does a 280mm tire, fit on a stock rim?
A: The largest tire that can be SAFELY mounted on a stock rim is a 260mm, a Dunlop 250mm, or other 260 or smaller.
See Running a 280mm Tire on the Stock Rim.

Q: Where can I get a clear tail light?
A: Many people on here have purchased Clear Alternative lights. A lot of problems plagued these lights, and most were returned to the manufacture. Some members have gotten their new generation lights, and have written good reviews on them.
If you are looking for just a clear lens tail light to mimic the "LE" tail light, you can change the lens to clear. The leds under your stock light are red. There is a how-to on here. http://www.m109riders.com/forums/sho...red+tail+light.

Q: My "FI" light is on, what do I do?
A: Get a code by following this procedure. All the codes, and what they mean are also posted on this thread. How To: Suzuki Fi code check with the Suzuki "special tool"

Q: How do I disable an "FI" light, caused from my SET?
A: For 2008 and earlier models, follow these instructions: M109r F1. Later models will need an ECU flash or a set valve eliminator.

Q: How do I change, and check my oil?
A: Please watch this video. It is very helpful, and will explain the 15-3 method of checking your oil level.
http://www.m109riders.com/forums/sho...ter+oil+change See also: Oil Level Check Procedure

Q: Why do I have oil coming out of my LEFT airbox?
A: The most common reason for this is, overfilling the oil. Some bikes, even when new, or if dealer changes oil, have this issue. Simply drain some oil, and refer to the 15-3 method of checking oil. If the problem does not fix itself, then you can make a "Oil catch can". Installing an Oil Catch Can

Q: How do I remove the body panels on my bike?
A: How to Remove M109R Panels

HEADLIGHT COVER
1- remove 2 push clips on inner side -- push center tab in and pull clips out.
2- remove 2- 4mm Allen bolts on each side of nacelle and pull the unit apart.
3- pull the bulb wire off and remove the headlight unit.
4- remove the screws from inner side of nacelle the break apart the 2 pieces and remove the headlight itself.

SIDE COVERS on each side of the seat must be removed next ! due to the hidden bolt for the rear fender.
do one side at a time but both are the same process.
1- remove the seat
2- remove the push clips by the tank ( on each side)
3- remove the black lower side pieces ( right side has a bolt) these pieces are held in by 2 pressure tabs. be firm but careful.
4- the side plastics are held on by 3 pressure tabs. once bolts are removed and pressure tabs released -- you must slid the plastic panel towards the front of the bike . the front tab is a slide tab not pressure tab
5- the left side has the cable to release the seat attached.. just turn the cable til it lines up with the cut out and pull it out..
6- remove the 2 bolts holding on the rear seat or cowl cover.

REAR FENDER
1- remove the 6 bolts -- 4 on the top and 2 on each side .
2- there are 2 screws on under side bt the turn lamps that must be removed to release the fender.
3- disconnect the plug for rear tail lamp.
4- remove 4 screws holding in the tail lamp.

GAS TANK
1- remove the 12mm bolt, and side covers. (see side cover removal)
2- use a socket extension to hold the tank up while you unplug connectors -- 1 for the speedometer and 1 for the fuel pump. disconnect the fuel line by pinching the blue plastic connector and pull apart-- some gas will come out -- not much-- have a rag ready.
3- slide tank towards the back and up and off.
4- remove the screw on the plastic speedometer cover and slide off.
5- remove the 4 screws that hold the plastic speedometer cover on to the gauge.

FRAME HEAD COVER AND RADIATOR SIDE COVERS
1- remove the upper push clip
2- remove the 2 bolts on each side
3- remove the 2 lower clip down bottom side -- pull center of clip out then the whole clips pulls out -- 2 piece clip
4- pull apart the upper neck plastics -- turn the handle bars to do this easier, then pull apart the sides and lowers -- be careful -- they will pull apart. once removed you will see the screws that hold them together on the inside.

FRONT FENDER
1- remove the 6 bolts and slide forwards

TACH HOUSING
1- remove the 2 bolts from risers.
2- remove the small Phillips screws that hold on the cover.

Q: How do I remove the wheels off my 9?
A: FRONT WHEEL REMOVAL
• Remove the brake calipers
!, left and right.
• Loosen the two axle pinch bolts
" on the right front fork leg.
• Loosen the front axle with the special tool.
Hexagon socket (24 mm)
• Raise the front wheel off the ground and support the motorcycle with a jack or a wooden block.
• Draw out the front axle and remove the front wheel.
NOTE:
After removing the front wheel, fit the calipers temporarily to the
original positions.
• Remove the collar

Caution:
Do not operate the brake lever while removing the calipers.

REAR WHEEL REMOVAL
• Remove the brake caliper bracket mounting bolt.
• Remove the cotter pin
".
• Hold the rear axle with the special tool and remove the axle
nut

Hexagon socket
• Raise the rear wheel off the ground and support the motorcycle with a jack or wooden block.
• Draw out the rear axle and collar.
• Remove the rear wheel.

Caution:
Do not operate the brake pedal while removing the caliper.


Q: What's a "De-beaver", and how do I do it?
A: De-Beaver means to remove the big plastic piece that looks like beaver tooth, that holds your license plate. To remove it, look here:
http://www.m109riders.com/forums/showthread.php?t=67445

Q: How do I "De-Badge" my bike?
A: First, let the bike sit in the sun for a while. I used fishing line, and put it between the tank, and the badge. I moved it back and forth like a sawing motion, until I reached the end. Then I used a little WD-40, and/or Goo-Gone, and a CLEAN RAG, to remove excess double sided tape left behind. The rest of the stickers come off fairly easily, after letting it sit in the sun. If it is cold outside, and no sunlight is available, I recommend using a hair dryer to heat the areas up a little.

Q: Where can I buy stuff for my 9, and what is available?
A: Here is a link to get the most "Bang for Your Buck".
http://www.m109riders.com/forums/sho...Bang+buck+mods

Q: I saw some guy who had a design on his covers. How did he do that?
A: It is called a "Ducks mod". It is available here:
http://www.duckscovers.com/pricing.htm
He is a member here, and his screen name is "Ducks517".
http://www.m109riders.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=126108
http://www.m109riders.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=126013

Q: How do I fix the "clunk" when I shift into second ear?
A: 1st, THIS IS NORMAL! So is the vibration you get around 3500 rpm.
There are a few things you can do. Try "shifting like you mean it". Don't try to ease it into 2nd. Shift it with meaning!
A user developed option is shown in this thread: http://www.m109riders.com/forums/sho...2nd+gear+clunk
The aforementioned option emulates the shift star kit, available from Meancycles.