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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
i saw on here someone saying that a 9 was a little hard to steer at slow speeds. one trick that can be done is to slide the forks down in the triple trees. i slid mine down to where they are even with the bottom of the caps. this is a trick i learned riding dirt bikes,moving them down that 1/8 of an inch will help make the bike steer easier.
not sure if it would help on lowered bike since mine is still stock height. always worth a try,don't like it put it back to stock height.
 

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Maybe that's why I always thought this bike steered fine. I installed a set of fork cover caps right after I bought it, and to install them I had to drop the tubes down flush with the top of the trees. It was about 1/4" above them when I bought it. Never thought much about that having an effect on it, but maybe it does.
 

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Really???

I will make that adjustment tomorrow and give it a try, Weather permitting..........
 

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Had mine flush with the top, but since mine is lowered and the Big Shots are so low it put further angle and cause me to scrape the pipes all the time. I moved mine back down and now I scrape the pegs then the pipe.

If I switch to another pipe I will probably put mine back up to the top. It gives you more clearance and will not scrape the front section of pipe that much either.:bigthumbsup:

BE SURE TO GET THEM THE SAME HEIGHT!! You bike will track weird if you don't have then balance. It caused really weird wear on my front and it always felt like I was turning slightly one way.I fixed it when I put on my Metz and a TON better! Also it could cause a twist in the front.
 

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Lowering the forks in the clamps will increase rake therefore making it turn wider and adding stability at speed. Raising the forks in the clamps will decrease rake therefore making it turn tighter (easier) and less stable at speed.
Learned that racing dirt bikes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Lowering the forks in the clamps will increase rake therefore making it turn wider and adding stability at speed. Raising the forks in the clamps will decrease rake therefore making it turn tighter (easier) and less stable at speed.
Learned that racing dirt bikes.
thanks for the explanation,didn't know the specifics just new it worked! lol
i guess it is a matter of preference. it works for me and my style of riding.
 

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Mine are flush also,but I thing the biggest difference was going to a 160.My wife's bike still has a 130 on the front and it is a huge difference between the two bikes.
 

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Mine are flush also,but I thing the biggest difference was going to a 160.My wife's bike still has a 130 on the front and it is a huge difference between the two bikes.
And now for the tough question, was it the tire profile or was it the increased trail that caused better handling? :dontknow:
 

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I think it is the profile of the tire because it is now more matched with the rear.I come from a long history of racing motocross also and fork height is very important but I really don't think it a huge difference on the 109.I set mine at that height to get a cleaner look after I polished the front end last winter.
 
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Lowering the forks in the clamps will increase rake therefore making it turn wider and adding stability at speed. Raising the forks in the clamps will decrease rake therefore making it turn tighter (easier) and less stable at speed.
Learned that racing dirt bikes.
Opposite on sportbikes. To make it twitchier, you lower the front or raise the rear. That shortens the rake. To make it more stable, vice versa. You sure you wrote that right?
 
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i saw on here someone saying that a 9 was a little hard to steer at slow speeds. one trick that can be done is to slide the forks down in the triple trees. i slid mine down to where they are even with the bottom of the caps. this is a trick i learned riding dirt bikes,moving them down that 1/8 of an inch will help make the bike steer easier.
not sure if it would help on lowered bike since mine is still stock height. always worth a try,don't like it put it back to stock height.
You are correct. Should also make the steering more precise at speed, and also more sensitive. However, if you lower the rear for any reason past where it is now, you will negate the front. It's all a proportional thing.
 

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Opposite on sportbikes. To make it twitchier, you lower the front or raise the rear. That shortens the rake. To make it more stable, vice versa. You sure you wrote that right?
Note that I said, "lowering the forks in the clamps" which will raise the front of the bike. Not, "lowering the clamps on the forks" which will lower the front of the bike. You have to really think about it for a second.
 
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Note that I said, "lowering the forks in the clamps" which will raise the front of the bike. Not, "lowering the clamps on the forks" which will lower the front of the bike. You have to really think about it for a second.
Ah, I can see how I may have read it wrong.......
 
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