M109 Rider Forums banner
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
G

·
Thank you once again Lamont. I know this will sound simple, but with all the money the Suzuki engineers make, how much could it cost for one of them to put something like that together with some pictures and put that in the manual. Once again bro, you da man.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
898 Posts
wish i would have seen that before i did mine  ::)  i bought a new *little* funnel when i went to go get a new drain pan and such... only to realize that it was a royal pain to try and use the little one.... had to cut it to use it.... i will definitely be picking up a flexible one before my next change...

khrome
 

·
M109Riders Founder
Joined
·
8,014 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
khrome13 said:
wish i would have seen that before i did mine ::) i bought a new *little* funnel when i went to go get a new drain pan and such... only to realize that it was a royal pain to try and use the little one.... had to cut it to use it.... i will definitely be picking up a flexible one before my next change...

khrome
I use that funnel all the time. I think it's for filling a tranny. :doorag:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
844 Posts
I added one other wrinkle.

I buy my oil by the gallon, in plastic bottles with a little volume measurement gauge built into the side of the bottle. After draining the oil, I measured what came out by pouring back into an old bottle. (My drain pan has a little lip on it which makes this easy to do with the assistance of a funnel.)

Yep! about 3,300 cc's. If I had added the recommended 3800, I would have been over by almost 500 cc's. A little while later I DID have to a bit more oil -- but at least I didn't have any spewing out the airboxes.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,103 Posts
I have always measured mine on the M109R just to know what amount comes out. My first oil change at 600 miles I got 4 qts exactly in the pan. This included what came out of the filter and I drained it both on the sidestand and sitting on it straight up. That time the bike had been ridden over the 15 minutes that Suzuki like you to for checking the oil. I went ahead and did another oil change at 1200 miles. Noticed no metal shavings on the drain plugs at this oil change, the first one had lots. This time I had only run the bike for 8 minutes due to it being so hot outside. I measured 3 qts 22 ozs that came out. I used Repsol 10-50 full synthetic I got on sale at cycle gear and a K & N oil filter with the nut built into the end of it. the service manual states the oil filter should be spun on by hand just until the base touches then 2 full turns! That is why they are so tight! this is the only filter I think was possible to do this with so I did it like the book says. There could be I guess enough vibration to cause the filter to loosen up without tightening like that. At least if you just put it on like a car filter you could use a hose clamp around the filter to use safety wire on to anchor it to a point down there so it cannot come off like you have to do on the race track. after this oil change with the Repsol I drove it around for 20 minutes and when I got home let it set for exactly 3 minutes and the oil level was right on the mark.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,637 Posts
One reason for the two full turns to tighten the factory filter is the type of seal its got on it. The factory one has a o-ring for a seal and require the two turns to flatten the o-ring and make a complete seal.

Other filters have different types of seals , usually a flat rubber or a taper style rubber seal are used. The flat usually takes a 1/2 to 2/3 turn to seal (i.e. Fram, AC,motorcraft etc) and then the taper will usually take a full turn to seal (i.e. K&N and most diesel filters)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
214 Posts
great post! i will be using it this weekend. anyone won't too put up a thread for changing out the rear~end fluids??? thanks! :bigthumbsup: :doorag:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
216 Posts
gaMrider said:
great post! i will be using it this weekend. anyone won't too put up a thread for changing out the rear~end fluids??? thanks! :bigthumbsup: :doorag:
Good point this is my first shaft driven motorcycle and i have never done this before.. :bigthumbsup:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
292 Posts
The Final drive fluid is easy to change, Just remove the plug at the bottom of the hub, drain it with bike on sidestand, replace bolt ( I used the same washer ). Take the filler plug out, and fill it up until fluid starts to come out. I put a 2x4 under the sidestand when I filled it up. Just make sure you use the right fluid.. If you do a search -- you'll find lots of info on this...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
190 Posts
Thanks for the step by step :read: post Bro :bigthumbsup: While I'm far from being a mechanic or mechanically inclined, this board just keeps improving my skill set! Nice to know that I can now do my own oil changes by just following your post! Thanks again.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,103 Posts
left out one thing on the final drive oil change, ride it around first to warm up the fluid and stir up the crap you want to drain out. :bigthumbsup:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
292 Posts
Right , I changed mine at 500 miles after a ride, so it was warm. I think I'll do it again at 1000 miles.. :)
 
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
Top