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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My Fi light came on a couple times today after heavy acceleration, turn the bike off and on and goes away. Anyone ever have this issue maybe a bad battery or a sensor!? Has a tume by BeringC and I haven’t changed anything since he tuned the bike. It runs awesome but for some reason today I had the Fi ligh my come on like 4 times….
 

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2008 M109R, 2016 FJR1300, 1999 VMax, 2009 Suzuki AN400 Burgman
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Sometimes if you start the bike before the fuel pump prime finishes it acts oddly, such as a high idle. Perhaps this was the issue.
If it does not recur, I would be unconcerned.
Low oil will not trigger the Fi light.
 
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Pull the code and see what it says. You have to do it while the light is on, so you can either leave the bike running or shut it off with the kill switch. Once you turn the key off the light goes away. The procedure to check it is in the how-to section, all it takes is a short wire to connect two pins on a jumper under the left side cover. Just keep in mind the FI light has to be on for the code to show, it shows on a section of the speedometer housing.
 

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You will want to put an extra key to the bike and a 4mm allen wrench along with a small piece of wire stripped on both ends in your pocket next time you ride.
That way when the FI light comes on you can pull over without turning the bike off. (Leave the bike running)
Then use the extra key to remove your seat and the 4mm allen wrench to remove the left side cover.
Up high near the frame rail by the ECU you will see a white 6 pin connector (which may have a black rubber cap on it)
Hold the white 6 pin connector in one hand with the locking tab facing upward.
Then use the short piece of wire to jump the upper and lower pin on the right side of the plug.
You will then see a C-xx code in your odometer read out. This code will indicate what the issue is.
The FI light must be illuminated (on) when doing this. If the FI light is not on then you will not get a fault code reading other than C-00.
If more than one fault is present when you jump out the diagnostic connector, the codes with alternate in the odometer display every couple of seconds.

Or you could just take the side cover off the bike and ride without it for a day if you don't have an extra key or don't want to remove the side cover while out and about.

Low oil level itself will not trigger a FI fault.
If the the oil level gets too low the oil pressure may drop and would illuminate the Oil Pressure/Coolant Temperature fault light. But this light is independent of the FI fault light.

The ECU tune will have nothing to do with the fault.
But one thing I have ran across serval time when the FI light comes on under heavy acceleration is an issue with the clutch switch. (There is no code for this but the times I have seen it happen it did throw a code for something else. But I cannot remember off hand what code that was. Its been years since I have dealt with that issue)
So before you ride next time, take a quick look at your clutch switch and make sure the plunger is moving freely and fully in & out all the way as you pull and release the lever.
If the clutch switch is hanging up in a way that the ECU sees the clutch lever as being pulled all the time, it will be running only on the neutral timing and STP maps.

Also if your bike was overfilled with oil, it likely puked some oil into your left intake housing. So be sure to open it up and check that the filter is not saturated with motor oil. Especially if you are running stock paper filters. If you are the filter will need to be replaced. If you are running K&N filter (or similar) then you would be able to wash, recharge and reuse those.

BCS
LGB/FJB
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
You guys are wizards! Was the new levers I put on are just short of hitting the clutch switch so the bike thought the clutch was engaged the whole time. Now need just grind down the aftermarket levers to make it reach the perch. First pic is aftermarket clutch lever and second is factory. Thank you guys once again for you expansive knowledge of these bikes!!!

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Kinda figured that was going to be the case.
That is pretty typical with the levers sold on Ebay and Amazon, their fitment leaves much to be desired.
If you are going to try to machine the levers you have instead of buying quality aftermarket levers, just be sure the fitment is spot on when you are done or it will damage the plunger over time and you will be right back in the same boat again and need to replace the clutch switch as well.

Also just to correct the terminology for any reading this in the future. With the plunger staying out as you show in the first photo, the ECU input would be as if the clutch were "disengaged" all the time. :)
.
The term clutch engaged and clutch disengaged is not referring to the lever on the bars. It is the referencing the actual clutch stack itself.
Lever pulled = clutch disengaged - clutch stack is separated and no load is being transferred from the engine to the drive train.
Lever not pulled = clutch engaged - clutch stack is compressed and load is being transferred from the engine to the drive train.

Glad you found the issue and that it is an easy fix.

BCS
LGB/FJB
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thanks Bering but are there quality levers for these bikes?! I’m not a fan of having knife blades and skulls on my lever that’s why I tried these adjustable shorties. I’m actually gonna contact the seller cause they manufacture the levers in house and let him know what adjustments they can make to fit proper, spoke with him a few times and think he’d like the feedback.
Ps-I’m the one that drive to you last year from Palm beach to tune mine and my buddies ecu…. Bike runs great after your tuning, thanks.
 

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No worries glad to help and happy to hear you like the ECU tunes.

I will admit that there is not a large selection of quality aftermarket levers out there for this bike, that I am aware of. But most of the China knock offs found on Ebay, Amazon, Ali Express and Wish are all very poor fitment, even though they look just like the Yana Shiki and other brand names. The quality is just no where near the same, which is why the price is so much cheaper as well.

The Yana Shiki Sport levers are pretty nice looking and reasonably priced. They were around $200 and I see now they are marked down to $140.00 on Meancycles website. (see below)

I have Yana Shiki Sport levers on my bike and have been very happy with them.
I have been tossing around getting a hydraulic clutch set up to eliminate the clutch cable on my bike. But I just can't bring myself to give up the nice aftermarket levers and go back to a stock lever. :)

BCS
LGB/FJB

 

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These guys are wizards BCS big papa and zoom ,my bike rarely breaks
And is a outside bike ridden daily everyday ,but do what they say to keep it up and running
Great . Thanks men !!! It use to be Trod that would answer all the questions correctly!!
Jerry Hogan109r
 

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No worries glad to help and happy to hear you like the ECU tunes.

I will admit that there is not a large selection of quality aftermarket levers out there for this bike, that I am aware of. But most of the China knock offs found on Ebay, Amazon, Ali Express and Wish are all very poor fitment, even though they look just like the Yana Shiki and other brand names. The quality is just no where near the same, which is why the price is so much cheaper as well.

The Yana Shiki Sport levers are pretty nice looking and reasonably priced. They were around $200 and I see now they are marked down to $140.00 on Meancycles website. (see below)

I have Yana Shiki Sport levers on my bike and have been very happy with them.
I have been tossing around getting a hydraulic clutch set up to eliminate the clutch cable on my bike. But I just can't bring myself to give up the nice aftermarket levers and go back to a stock lever. :)

BCS
LGB/FJB

We're using shorty , dogleg levers , knockoffs of CRG levers , which simply aren't available for the 9. All of the Yana shiki levers are worse than the stockers , not to mention stupid looking. I prefer function over form.
 

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We're using shorty , dogleg levers , knockoffs of CRG levers , which simply aren't available for the 9. All of the Yana shiki levers are worse than the stockers , not to mention stupid looking. I prefer function over form.
From the photos the OP posted I would say there is some machine work that needs to be done to those levers before they are the correct "Form" to "Function" correctly.

My Yana Sports fit perfectly with no modification and are far from stupid looking.
I think they are quite good looking and complement the bike well.
But opinions are like assholes........everybodys got one.

BCS
LGB/FJB
 

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These guys are wizards BCS big papa and zoom ,my bike rarely breaks
And is a outside bike ridden daily everyday ,but do what they say to keep it up and running
Great . Thanks men !!! It use to be Trod that would answer all the questions correctly!!
Jerry Hogan109r
Thanks for the kind words. We just started a youtube channel so you can get some good info. Just did a full clutch video.

 
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