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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
A couple of guys, including Lamontster have put the FI 2000 on there bikes, I know Lamontster has been working on the DYNO. But I have not seen the final results from the his latest mods, pipes, FI2000 and Directlines Air KIT. Some local shops I have been speaking with have said that the FI-2000 cannot take fuel out of the A/F ratio and that can be a the biggest problem when the bike gets enough air in it.

The conversation went along these lines.

"When the manufacutures program a ECM in recent years they tend to error on the "RICH" Side to protect the engine. In the "OLD" Days the ECM would not respond to changes in the inputs, more Air (i.e. broke air box) and the ECM would not deliver more fuel correspondingly and the engine would run too lean and get damaged. In today's bikes the ECM's dump fuel by default to "LIMP YOU HOME" to get the "PROBLEM" fixed. And the only fuel manager that allows you to remove fuel from the power curve is the PC3."

If anyone has first hand knowledge of this please post. I am waiting for the PC3 because of this conversation and SEPT is still 4 months away. That is a long time to be DETUNED.

I want this "BEAST" to be on the edge without breaking the case. And I want to be sure that I can spank those HD's with there $15,000.00 Stage three kits.

RAW_TAZ
 

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I have a PC3. The device is completely configurable. It can add or subtract fuel from the ECU in any amount at any point in the RPM/load range. When tuned at a DynoJet Tuning Center, a custom map is created specifically for your bikes configuration/mods. It just doesn't get anybetter than that. :D You can have them tune a map for power and then back it off yourself for fuel econnomy at the highway "sweet spot" and save it as a touring map. You can make as many maps as you want and share them with your friends! You can changes maps in a couple minutes with your PC and even run the ap. on a PalmPilot. Some forums have a place just to share maps! :bigthumbsup:
By comparison, IMHO, the FI-2000 is not an equvalent device.
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for the post JR, I've not had either so I do not have any first had knowlege of either. The reason I would want to take fuel out is if it running too rich after the air-box mods.

Lamonster said:
Good post JR :bigthumbsup: I know I can do better on my tuning if I could take a little more fuel out but the FI2000 is doing a pretty good job for now. :doorag:
Lamonster, Did you post DYNO numbers after the Pipes and FI-2000?

RAW_TAZ
 
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
J R said:
Im real happy with the fi2000r I think there default settings are rich for them to be on the safe side which is a good thing for just bolting somthing up.and i like the old screwdriver method for adjusting stuff even on the side of the road.It just plain easier and the thing works perfect on this bike.One thing I LOVE bout it is you can adjust it so its REAL rich/fat and thats good for the guys that wanna run that funny gas and really suprise peeps on the street :evil:
Sweet, do you have NOS on yours, yet? Where did you hide the bottle?
 

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i thought another difference in the two is that the PC3 can also adjust ignition timing (retard or advance). is this true?
 

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:bigthumbsup: Taz........ point of information.
you want to make sure that you can spank the stage III harleys. hey man NO PROBLEM for this bike stock...... not even close, they don"t have chance.
they can't beat my 02 1800 VTXc. I ride with them all the time.
As a matter of fact.... I decided to ride the VTX to bike week at Myrtle Beach this year instead of the new M109r because the weather was questionable and I have a Honda windshield for it ( the one with the lowers on it) . While I was there, one of my buddies, who had just finished his stage III (3) weeks before Myrtle, pulled up beside me and said OK Woody I'm ready for you now. I beat him 3 times and he blew a valve on the last run..... he packed up his bike the next AM and came back to VA. Beach.  Just thought you and all these new guys on the site would like to know.

Another point for you guys..... I have run (2) V-rods with the m109r and beat them both. The second guy was totally pi**ed, that makes it even better.

I will still change the spark retarder on 1st, 2nd & 3rd and the top speed rev limiter in 5th as soon as you guys have proofed the alteration for a while.... or Suzuki comes out with one.

The website is awesome.... reminds me of the VTXOA... many thanks too La-monster, we all owe him a debt of gratitude.

When you get a kit together with instructions for a non mechanic e-mail me I will buy one.

Thanks,

             Woody from VA.
 

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Thanks JR for the info. your right that a lot of guys might buy the PC for the wrong reasons. People like myself that are not that edumacated into the ways of a motorcycle engine are easily swayed to the DARK SIDE of the racing bike but I,m glad to know that person can get different openions from this forum to help him make an informed decision and then do what he wants.
 

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I have the point Brother. No anger here. :verymad:

:joke:

Actually the only local guy that I can find that will do my nitrous and tuning is a power commander lover and runs a Dyno that needs the power commander. He is pretty cool and knowledgable and I can either wait till September, get another model or find a new tuner. I live in Utah and tuners of metrics are hard to come bye.

Any suggestions?
 

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if you guys really wanted to go fast, you'd leave stock pipes and change the air box and run the fi2000r. when you change pipes you loose power. trent at thunder told me he dynoed one stock and it posted 112 horses of course he's in arizona where's theres little to no humity removed air box and dynoed 122 at the real wheel. for a cruiser, a sport cruiser that is plenty of power. v-rods with screamin eagle tuners and pipes only dyno 115 horses, now if he's not scared of that bike (v-rod) and turns it loose at the line he's gonna give you hell.
 

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Exactly what I was thinking JR.

I am going to do the TRE mod 1st.

Then I am going to mod the airfilter and keep stock pipes until I find a good 2 into 1.

Then I am going to do the juice and a power commander.

That should be it.

Now the question remains (I should probably ask my tuner) can I use a power commander that would work on a C90 and hopefully the connectors will match up or do I have to sit on my butt all summer and juice her when it's starting to get cold?
 

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What about the set valve when you remove the stock pipes? I thought the idea was that provides bottom end torque since the engine is tuned for higher rev operation, thats what I have read anyway. Since the other pipes would have no way of on the fly back pressure rpm compensation is not that an issue? Or am I all wrong here? As far as weight, thats a non issue for me at 165lbs :)

Blur,MN
 

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I have been doing dyno tuning for Olathe Suzuki for about 5 years now..... all types of bikes, with EMS, PC3, TFI, yosh box adjustment, etc I prefer the pc3usb, its a bit more granular (more rpm increments) and when used with tuning link, you can abtain great results.
 

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ppridgen1 said:
good to know jeff how much do they cost though :bigthumbsup: :doorag:
Aounrd $330 or so for the PC3usb...... TFI should be under $200.

One other thing, the Mark Dobec's TFI box only allws you to "ADD" fuel, you can't remove it. This is a big deal.
 
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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
jeffw said:
Aounrd $330 or so for the PC3usb...... TFI should be under $200.

One other thing, the Mark Dobec's TFI box only allws you to "ADD" fuel, you can't remove it. This is a big deal.
Question for you Jeff, What is the bets A/F Ratio 12.5:1? If so 15:1 would be lean and 10:1 would be rich?
 
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