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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Does anybody know the advantages and disadvantages of installing the extra clutch plates. These are items number 7 and 8 in the partslist of the M109R spare parts catalogue. I will be replacing the plates on Saturday and would love some input. If anybody has installed the plates, please let me know your experience. Can I add just one rather then both and if so which one 7 or 8?:dontknow:

Thanks
 

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Those plates are not "Extra" and have to be in place for the clutch to work properly. One thing to remember is there are obviously fiber and steel clutch plates in there, but when they call for different pert numbers to both it is most likely a different thinkness version of that plate. Meaning could be thicker or thinner and that changes the of stack dimension of the entire pack. Thinner would cause clutch slippage and thinker would mean it might not ever dissengage. So yes, it really does matter---alot.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Extra Clutch plate

So those two plates (7 & 8), which plates do they replace. If you look at the parts list diagram they don't show where they fit in or which plates they are to replace. I was told these were extra plates you could add to increase pressure on the plates and reduce slippage. I have seen them installed in ATVs. Where can I find the information I need to solve this.
 

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After looking at the schematic, 7 and 8 are possibly thicker variations of #6. Yes, you can replace #6 with one of those, but you would not know if you need to until you get the total stack thickness---which is specified in the manual to be a certain dimension and then you decide if that dimension needs to be adjusted to get it to spec. Reality, if you have replaced all the fibers and steel plates, then #6 should work just fine---as long as that plate is still in spec.
 

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MAKE SURE YOU INSTALL THE PLATES IN THE CORRECT ORDER ALSO. IT CAN CAUSE YOU ALOT OF TROUBLES IF THEY ARE INSTALLED IN THE WRONG ORDER. ALSO MAKE SURE TO SET THEM IN SOME OIL BEFORE YOU INSTALL THEM IN THE CLUTCH BASKET.... :agree:
 

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Drive plates

The clutch drive plates have teeth on the inner part that mesh with the clutch hub, like #6. While #10 (driven plate) has fiber on one side, #6 is steel on both sides (like 7 and 8 )because it's really just a base. It's total thickness is 2.0mm. If your total clutch pack is too thick or too thin, the optional plates #7 (2.3 mm) or #8 (1.6 mm) can be substituted for #6.
I've changed a few clutch packs, and always just used the stock number.
You should be able to adjust your clutch to release and not slip without the optional parts.
In any case, don't use more than one of 6,7 or 8.
Somebody please correct me if I'm wrong.
Hint: If you are assembling the plates correctly, you won't ever have steel against steel, or fiber against fiber.
 

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When I installed my updated clutch parts the paper showed 3 different size clutch drive plates.Mine did measure the same thickness but it was warped.I installed the new parts and scuffed all the steel plates and now its better than it was when it was new.
Suzuki part #
#21472-48G10 Washer,Clutch P
#21441-48G40 Plate,Clutch DR
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks for the help guys :bow:, I'm changing all the plates, so it seems I will stick with number 6. Although I'm still not clear on the calibration of the clutch play from the "Clutch release arm" the diagram in the updated manual is not the clear. I need some clarification. And what is the best way to check for the slippage after installation to minimize clutch damage.
 

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Clutch adjustment

I don't have the updated manual, so I can't help you with that, but the final result will be obvious when you fire her up and put it in gear. Your clutch should grab with the hand lever about halfway released. You should have freeplay in the lever about 2 quarters (the coins) worth at the gap between the lever and perch. If both these are true, you should be fine. Note, the freeplay is needed to prevent slippage, and will change with wear and heat, so it needs to be checked often.
You have 3 places to adjust the clutch, the screw/nut at the clutch basket first, then the bottom of the clutch cable next, then at the lever last. Between the three, you will be able to find the right balance.
 

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Plates #7 and #8 are the same as #6, only they all have a different width.
You only install one of the three. Which one you choose depends on your overall clutch stack width. You choose the one that gives you the correct overall stack width.
If you are using stock clutch parts. Likely # 6 is your best bet. You could measure them to be sure.
If you use aftermarket clutch parts. I would certainly measure the stack width and choose the right one. Otherwise there is a pretty good chance you could burn the new clutch out, or it might not work correctly.
Here's the problem. Try to find someone that knows what the overall clutch stack width is supposed to be.... I don't know or I would tell you.
My dealer knew, and gave me the right one a while back, but he's not there anymore.
Good luck.
 

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I have searched my manual and can't find the total stack height for a 07
Any one know what the spec is?
bump....I'd like to know that too.:bigthumbsup:
 

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Ya it's a funny thing. They sell 3 different plates to ensure you get the right one based on the clutch stack width. But they don't tell you anywhere (that I could find anyway) what width you are supposed to have to know which plate to use.... ???
Anyway, like I said, if you're using stock, I would go with #6. I've done several clutch jobs now, and #6 never let me down.
Aftermarket is a different story though.
 
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Ya it's a funny thing. They sell 3 different plates to ensure you get the right one based on the clutch stack width. But they don't tell you anywhere (that I could find anyway) what width you are supposed to have to know which plate to use.... ???
Anyway, like I said, if you're using stock, I would go with #6. I've done several clutch jobs now, and #6 never let me down.
Aftermarket is a different story though.
Funny...I put the Cycle House clutch in about 17K miles ago...didn't replace anything but the OEM fiber plates. Not a hiccup since. Couldn't tell ya if I've got #6, 7 or 8 in there...whatever she came with from the factory.
 

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Ya it's a funny thing. They sell 3 different plates to ensure you get the right one based on the clutch stack width. But they don't tell you anywhere (that I could find anyway) what width you are supposed to have to know which plate to use.... ???
Anyway, like I said, if you're using stock, I would go with #6. I've done several clutch jobs now, and #6 never let me down.
Aftermarket is a different story though.
I just ordered all new fibers,plates and #6. I'm going to take the stack measurements on my new vs used. I'll post them up here when I get the plates. I should have them by Friday.:bigthumbsup:
 

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I suspect that the choice of plate thickness is based on what was installed at the factory. They may have done it based on stack height but you may never find that info anywhere. There might be some indication in the motor code or elsewhere to indicate which one came in it from the factory.

Personally, I can't see that it's going to matter much because the adjustment of the lever and cable would compensate for any small diff in the height of the clutch stack. I just don't see that it's going to matter much since even a small amount of wear in each plate would total more than the diff between the thinnest and thickest plate choice.
 

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I suspect that the choice of plate thickness is based on what was installed at the factory. They may have done it based on stack height but you may never find that info anywhere. There might be some indication in the motor code or elsewhere to indicate which one came in it from the factory.

Personally, I can't see that it's going to matter much because the adjustment of the lever and cable would compensate for any small diff in the height of the clutch stack. I just don't see that it's going to matter much since even a small amount of wear in each plate would total more than the diff between the thinnest and thickest plate choice.
:agree: My understanding is you can measure the stack height and the dealer can tell you which one you need. However, I have never heard of anyone swapping out from the #6 plate. I have never done it in all the clutches I have done and there have been no problems.
 

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:agree: My understanding is you can measure the stack height and the dealer can tell you which one you need. However, I have never heard of anyone swapping out from the #6 plate. I have never done it in all the clutches I have done and there have been no problems.
Dang! Two agrees from Big P in the matter of a week. I'm on a friggin roll!

Now, stop looking at my horn bracket before you end up wanting me to make you one. And, BTW, it's FRIGGIN LOUD! Stomps out momma's Bad Boy pretty good.:bigthumbsup::bigthumbsup::bigthumbsup:
 

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Dang! Two agrees from Big P in the matter of a week. I'm on a friggin roll!

Now, stop looking at my horn bracket before you end up wanting me to make you one. And, BTW, it's FRIGGIN LOUD! Stomps out momma's Bad Boy pretty good.:bigthumbsup::bigthumbsup::bigthumbsup:
Actually, I hate to "disagree" with you, but it must be done. I agreed last week. Today is Monday so it is a new week. So, I have only agreed with you once this week and once last week. It would be safe to say that I have agreed with you twice in a seven day period, though. I am optimistic that you will agree with me on this one. :bigthumbsup:

As far as the horn bracket, can you make me 2. i want to put one on each crash guard facing forward :drool:
 
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