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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
To Set The Stage, So to Speak...

I bought an older "WING" with 56,000 on the odometer. It had just been serviced a couple days before I picked it up, but even so, I brought it home and changed the oil to AMSOIL MCF 10W-40 M/C Specific oil. Even I was amazed, shifts as smooth as glass and clutch performance was better too. That week I had some people up from Orlando to run the mountains and the bike started acting up, hard, clunky shifts and hard to find neutral. No time to worry about it, these guys are here to ride, I tell myself, I'll take care of it later...

We put on about 1300 miles that week before the gorls joined us on Saturday for an over 250 mile ride on Sat/Sun. On that ride, the bike performed flawlessly, shifts as smooth as glass and able to find neutral...

Last weekend, I started out for a ride to Boone, NC and the clunky shifting was back and neutral getting hard to find... But this was with 10,000 miles on the oil now.. did the ride to Boone and the long way home... 600 mile ride and ran the rest of the week. Over 11,000 miles on the oil and decided to change it today.

Back in went the AMSOIL MCF 10W-40 and immediately the smooth shifts were back and no problem finding neutral.

I DO NOT recommend to anyone to run 11,000 miles on AMSOIL without analysis! It is 2 times OEM Recommended change interval. I did this for my own information.
 
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good lord, I wouldn't do 11,000 miles on any oil even if it said so on the bottle in big neon colors. I do 3k on dyno and maybe 6k on mobile 1 on previous bikes if they were mostly calm highway miles. Oil is cheap.
 

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I thought that after the 600 mile service where they change the oil and filter all you have to do is just make sure to check the oil level and top off as needed. You mean we have to keep doing it??

mania
 

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the manual tells you what mileage to change the oil in your bike. i change mine every 3k.
maybe unnecessary; but, doesn't hurt either.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
The oil change called for on my bike is 8000 miles.... Mobil 1 is not intended to go 6K but that is up to you and in that case you are doubling the change interval and Mobil will not Warranty any oil related problems.

At 11,000 I was only 40% over the recommended interval for My Bike. Doubling to 6000 on your bike is 100% over or 200% of the recommended, however you choose to look at it. AMSOIL is the only oil I am aware of that warraties there oil for 2 X OEM Change Interval.

That is the problem with Mechanics... they are parts changers.... I prefer to use Technicians.. and when it comes to oil, I trust Tribologists because the average "Mechanic" doesn't know his Salt about oil..
 

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the manual tells you what mileage to change the oil in your bike. i change mine every 3k.
maybe unnecessary; but, doesn't hurt either.

same 3k here, even though i use synth. i also chang out the rears oil each time i change the engine oil. it just gives me more confidence in the bike if i get to check it out so often.
 

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Windog said:
The difference mechanics are not part changers.
Most of the new ones in the dealerships are , I don't know what they would have done in the pre-OTD days ::) .......... sorry just getting sick of the "if it dosen't show a code we can't fix it" BS

Speaking of high milage oil , I do 10K to 15K mile oil changes in my Jeep and work truck :bigthumbsup: ................................... oh forgot to mention they are both diesels :p
 
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amsoil is the best oil i have ever used the 109 & my meanstreak love it quiet smooth shifts every time & i put at least 20 1/4 mile passes on each bike weekly
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Sorry to disappoint you... I am not "Just a Salesman" I have owned several shops, building them from the ground up, and did a lot of work myself... and still do, although it is getting less as years go by...so I know the difference between a parts changer and a Technician.

I always look for a win-win situation....Believe it or not, there are Honest sales people out there who look to help people instead of helping themselves to their customers pocketbooks. It is easy to sell most people on anything one time, I prefer to keep them coming back. I do that by being honest and knowing what I am talking about.

On the other hand, you always have the people that believe all the Rhetoric or enjoy spreading it..
 

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finish ths story,don't forget the micron filter you must also use,that cost 150 bucks to adapt to. You are still going to pay,either more oil changes,or hi tec oil and filters.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I don't know where you have received your information from, but again, more rhetoric being spread.

The only filter we recommend is our Spin on filter and they run from around 10-15.00, some of the truck filters are a little higher.

You are certainly confusing these with our by-pass filter set up.

Why don't you write down some questions and ask me for information instead of jumping in with a bunch of Mis-Information that you have gathered from somewhere or someone.

I will be more than happy to share anything with you I can about AMSOIL, the company and/or the products..
 

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You guys are making this wayyyyyyyyy to complex. Neither technitions or the manual knows when to change your oil. Why, you might ask? Because every bike is ridden completely different. What is good for bike A may not be the best for bike B. But there is a simple way to know when your bike needs it's oil changed. Look, smell, and feel. Look at the color, smell the oil, and the biggest one, feel how your tranny shifts. I know that on my Warrior I can feel when it's time to change the oil because my neutral to first shifts become more and more clunky the closer I get to 6k miles. Also, the color starts to change from that wonderful light tan Amsoil color to a smelly burnt caramel color.

So yes, you have to think a little bit. But honest it is very easy to do, I promise. Oh yeah, Amsoil rocks. I won't use anything else in my bike. But my wife's SV650 runs a LOT better on Rotella T that it ever did on the Amsoil so I stick with it for hers.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
You are correct in what you say DFW. When the OEM comes up with a change interval, it is under the guidlines of "Normal Riding" and is also tested in a factory. Most manuals will tell you that under "Severe" conditions to change oil more frequently, they just don't tell you what those conditions are.

Matter of Fact, I just shipped some oil to a M109 rider that has been following this thread, who was honest and told me that he runs his bike hard, I recommended OEM change Interval even with AMSOIL and if using regular oil to change at half the OEM Recommended.

Without using analysis, it is a guessing game.
 

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I ride my bike REAL hard. I've changed my oil 4 times since ...March I think. Every time I felt it was clunkier/harder to shift and the oil removed was...black like every other used motor oil I've seen.

Every time I changed, she felt smoother and ran better. I'll be changing it again in October. Not because it needs it, but because I'll be replacing my clutch...and won't have a choice.
 

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Oil Doc,

Maybe this has been stated before, :redfaced: but could you tell me the specifics of the oil (part number, name, weight, price, ect.) that you would recommend for the 109 (engine oil and the shaft oil)? I am oil illiterate. I have seen many different numbers listed.

Thanks,
Flem
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Flem...

AMSOIL Product Codes: MCF-01 is a case (12 qts) of the M/C Specific 10W-40

EAOM-109 is the Oil Filter

SVG-QT is the Severe Gear Lube

1: MCF-01, 3: EAOM-109 Filters, 1 SVG-QT depending on exactly where you live, will be $128.84 dropped on your door when ordered directly through me. Nobody beats my prices. TN residents have to add sales tax.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Roger.....

I don't remember what we talked about and I usually ask someone how they ride their bike when I am talking to them.

I usually recommend to either do as you do, change when the shifting starts to degrade or stick to OEM recommended change interval if running hard... Otherwise it is 2 times OEM Interval....

Wondering if you have an idea on the mileage you are going? I have a customer with a Street/Strip Mazda RX-7 and he had to cut his oil change down to 17,000 miles.

I know on the Harley's we are looking to extend the change interval even further due to the oil analysis reports we have been getting. Just looking for some input to see where we standing in Hard Use.

Thanks, Bob
 

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Yup..you did ask.

I change when shifting degrades. It's before OEM time to change oil. I think I've only put about 9000 miles on since...March?

I'm in need of a valve adjustment and carb synch as well as the new tire & clutch...but those I'll have to pay a mech. for...since I don't have somebody with the know-how to help.

Those two items (valve adjustment & carb synch) may help with my oil situation....I think the engine may be working harder (since the jugs/carbs are fighting against each other..instead of being in synch).

My current oil is the "older" Amsoil I found at a stealer that I called you about. I was in a pinch..and needed something to change to before a longer road trip. I put on about 1300 miles on that trip. Clutch started to slip after I got back. Got ~34,000 miles on the bike now. I am told that's a good run for the stock clutch on this bike.

I got ~11-12K miles out of my last front tire. I had it mounted in June of 2005.

By "I ride my bike real hard"...I mean:
My commute is 20 minutes...about 15 miles. I have, after entering the street by my house:
2 left turns at stop signs. About a 2 mile ride (avg. 50 mph) and left turn onto another street. That street ends 2 miles (avg 50 mph) later at a stop sign where I turn right.

This road goes for about 8 miles, but has curves at the start (50 mph max!, turns into a 4 lane, and 2 stop lights (...of which I hit both about 98 out of 100 trips). Then..I exit the 4 lane in a loop over....for another 2.5 miles with max speed of about 45 mph. Then a right turn at a stop light, and less than .5 miles later, left turn into work parking lot.

Of all those stop lights & stop signs...when I am in position to...I accellerate like a bashee a lot...till about 60 mph..then slow back to cruising speeds. After the two stop lights above...I average about 65 - 70 mph.

When cruising sometimes at 50/60 mph..I like to goose the throttle to hit 70 real quick..then ease her back down.
 
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