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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Folks:

I entered a post under Synthetic Oil but I'm opening this topic on it's own!

The debate of which oil to use is always a much discussed and at times heated topic.

With that in mind I'm posing the following questions to the 109 board ( approximately 656 members ).

1. Has anyone ever driven a motorcycle ( to include cruiser, tourer, dirt bike, or sport bike ) and experienced a motor or transmission failure ( slipping clutches not included ). Please give make/model and year of cycle.

2. At the time of the failure was the bike being abused ( redlining, power shifting under load, high RPM burnout  included ).

3. What brand of oil was in the crankcase at the time of failure ( please be specific etc. Brand, weight and wheather Dyno or Synthetic ).

The responce by the broad array of riders on this board will give some indication of a trend with failures and a specific Brand of oil.

As to avoid confusion I respectfully request that you only respond to this post if you have personally experienced a failure of a engine or transmission as described by the above criterion.
 

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Re: Engine/Transmission Failures

Unless oil analysis was performed, there is no way to be certain of an oil-related failure due to what was in the crankcase.

Bob
 
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Re: Engine/Transmission Failures

This bike has only been on the market for 2 months.Â

Has anyone grenaded one already? I would like to know how.Â

I weigh 350 lbs and in the 475 miles on mine I have done nothing but thrash on it. I am a firm believer in breaking it in as it is to be driven. I do this on all of my vehicles.

I rode my VTX like it pissed me off all the time and never had any problems in 12000 miles prior to it being stolen. And after it was recovered, at the graveyard it started just as it did on day one.

The X also had alot of light to light HD spankings two up, wife is 135lbs so the X was always under load. Or overloaded depending on your opinion.

I know that the VTX uses the same oil for the transmission,wet clutch as the engine and certain oils casued the clutch to slip. Products with moly something or another where the problem. I only used Honda oil in my X which is a 50/50 blend.

I have not been back to the Stealer for my first service yet but will put whatever Synthetic Oil, Suzuki recommends in the belly of the beast.

RAW_TAZ
 

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Re: Engine/Transmission Failures

Moly MAY contribute to clutch problems but the VTX had clutch problems right out of the crate. There is a company, probably more by now, that sells heavier springs that cured that problem.
 

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Fritz said:
I truly hate to begrudge any herein,Butts Me 'ol VTX witch i traded in for Me Nude
109 had far better roll-on and acceleration.Of course I ran "Sideburner" exhaust,
had a K&N filter and " fuel Nanny" adjusted for midrange Zip. I ran Amsoil {20-50W}
the last 2 years which gave good cold starting ability.The VTX will quickly drain a
battery,especially in colder starts due to the very heavy Crankshaft and internals.
Just 5 weeks ago,2 fellars with sportbikes,all fancied up and modded,where at
the local Yahmaha/Suzuki dealer.Bothe Bikes they had were drastically different.
I believe Both were Busa's/I copuldn't rell with the one.It had a complete chromes
Kustom Bigger rear wheel set.No Fairing.The other,mainly cosmetic Hayabusa
facelift,including fancy chrome stiuff,different pimp paint and seat.
We all left the dealer at the same time.We anxiously waited till the traffic was
clear an engaged in first on a decent stretch of Highway.The Pimped Busa,,was difficult to
start,an was probably screwed with.Yhe other ,Raised Chrome rear bike was
kinda naked but very clean and efficient.When we started off the Chromed
Busa was damn near gone,after a cautious start.I followed the Pimped {pinkish-red}
Busa and waited on him.He wasn;t interested in Racing.So,I goosed me VTX in
Long first gear an then second an Blew his ass right off.
I've really never lost a street race with me tuned VTX.
I hope this Little M109 scoot can do the same.
Right now,My Ruine has far better throttle responce.A linear,uninterupted surge of
inertia,that will literally make the bike fly out of one's hands.
The M109 has failed that test.
I'm thinkin,maybe the Air box is Waaaaaaay too restrictive.
>>>ARE YOU STILL TALKING..... :eek:
 
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Most motorcycle races are determined by who wants to keep their hand on the throttle the longest.

Beat a Busa? Only if he let you win.
 

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HalGreenlee said:
Most motorcycle races are determined by who wants to keep their hand on the throttle the longest.
Very well spoken Hal. I will usually take the guy with the bigger pair of swingin' brass ones, even if he's on a slower ride.
 

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If cold starting was a concern on a twin, wouldn't it make sense to switch to 10/40 instead of 20/50 ? Or,, are you saying that the syn 20w50 is better cold starting than dino 20w50 ?
 

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Most of our bikes call for 10-40, so I'll try a little explanation.

The first number of any oil weight, 20 in this case, is measured at 0 degrees Centigrade (32 F) . So within a range, 20 weight is 20 weight regardless. As the temperature drops below that, oil begins to get thicker mostly due to the paraffin (wax) in petroleum oil. Even a good Hydro-Cracked (petroleum oil that calls themselves synthetic) oil will flow relatively well at lower temps because much of the wax is removed in the cracking process.

Rotella T , for example, is a petroleum product, even though it says fully synthetic (don't get me wrong, it is a good oil, just comparison here). It is a Hydro-Isomerized oil, or Hydro-Cracked as it is generally referred to, and is 92-98.9 % petroleum, but has a cold flow of I believe around minus 41 Degrees F. Where there are actually true Synthetics of a 10-40 that flow at minus 51 Degrees F. At around minus 40 F you can actually take a bottle of petroleum oil, regardless of weight and cut it in half without spilling any oil as it is a gel by then.

So by comparison, you have to make sure whether it is a True Synthetic, Hydro-Isomerized or Petroleum once you go below 32 degrees F or above 212 F. Many Synthetics are so stable on their own that they don't even start to rely on their additive packs till around 265 Degrees, and if your oil is getting into that range, you best have a synthetic as multi-grade petroleum oil is about as good as water in your engine over about 225-235.

Some people in North Country, do use 10-40, even in their Harley's.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Folks: Not to be rude or unkind but the intent of this post was to find out if anyone ever had a engine/transmission failure and give the specifics. To date there have been eight responses on the post but not one relevent to the questions in the original post?????

I don't believe I can be anymore specific than ask the question "HAS ANYONE EVER HAD A ENGINE/TRANMISSION FAILURE"........If you can answer YES to that question, please provide the specifics as per the criterion in the original post. It would be greatly appreciated. As this board currently has 749 members and 625 members have reviewed the post, there has to be someone who has had a failure!
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
ppridgen1 said:
well, ask a stupid question........................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................then you have to ask it again! Yet still noone will answer you........maybe they haven't schrapneled any bikes.....not to be mean but did you ever immagine that!!!
Thank you for sharing that with me :) :) :) :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
ppridgen1 said:
but seriously if anything on my 109 blows up ........it'll be my wifes skirt...actually at 75 mph this weekend her chrochet top came unlaced and was "in the wind" for about two minutes while she wrangle it in!!!!!!
I doubt that you have to worry about the 109 blowing up. Zuki builds some very dependable machines.....kind of like the old "Timex" quote...."they take a licking but keep on ticking"
 

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ppridgen1 said:
but seriously if anything on my 109 blows up ........it'll be my wifes skirt...actually at 75 mph this weekend her chrochet top came unlaced and was "in the wind" for about two minutes while she wrangle it in!!!!!!
This is why I always carry a camera. :D
 

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Intruder M1800R European model clutch has failed at 2500 miles. Engine oil used was Castrol 10W40 MA. It started with slight clutch slip where the revs were climbing faster than the speed.

But on my last ride the clutch seemed to fail altogether with the speed not going above 75 mph, gears almost impossible to shift.

Looks like a new clutch for me :(
 
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