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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
What's up guys? I'm an electrical rookie, and need some of your expertise.

I'm trying to install flexible green LED (SMD 5050) strips on my bike. I found some on Ebay that were 12 strips with 12 LED's for $47. The goal was to wire them all in parallel and then connect an inline fuse to the battery, the fuse to a switch, the positive of the LED to the switch, and ground the negative to the battery.

I've tested all of them with a 9-volt battery, however, it seems the 4-pronged connector that they came with only will work on one end of the strip. :dontknow: When I check the connector to the other end, it does not light up. Both ends have receptacles for the prongs. I thought I'd be able plug a connector into the end of each side to connect to strips and then soder the wires together to connect to the next strip. It seems as though the wire is 24 gauge (basically speaker wire).

All of them work, I even installed on under the back fender, plugged a connector to each side, sodered a connection, plugged into a strip on the other side of fender, and was able at one point to get both strips to work. When I plugged into the end of strip #2, ran the wire, then sodered the connector for the 3rd strip, I decided to test them again.

I tested the 9-volt battery at the wires coming out of strip #1, (thinking they would all light) I could only get strip #1 to light up. :dontknow: ???

I'm attaching some pictures so you can see what the connections look like.

Will this wiring schematic not work? Am I doing something wrong? Any suggestions or possible new ideas to wire these up would be great. I appreciate all of your guys insight.

Damn...I wished I paid better attention in electronic class in high school.
 

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wow it is late and i might not be thinking straight, but make sure that your polarity is correct because these are sensitive to that. and being in parallel if you have a short somewere in your wiring (a solder point because the wires so thin) that would def cause them not to operate. if you have a muti-meter you can check the resistance between the beginning of the circuit and the end. if it read OFL then there is a open, but if it reads a number (0.XXX) your circuit is good. do this while power is OFF to the circuit.

my guess is that it is either the polarity or you have a open.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
I just did some reading on a site that sells LED's. I think I may have found a solution (maybe my original plan was the problem).

It looks like I need to plug the connector into the side that lets it light up. Then I need to soder additional speaker wire to that wiring and run each led strip individually to one of those Lever Lock quick connect terminals, having a terminal each for positive and negative. Then run a wire from the fuse to the (+) battery and the (-) LED wire to the battery. Then run the other end of the fuse to the switch and then run the (+) LED wire to the switch.

Then I think it should work.

I guess I was trying to string them like outdoor Christmas light strands, just keep connecting them to each other. Guess these don't work that way.

Can I run more than one positive wire into each slot on the connector (and the same for the negatives)? I have 12 strips, would like to use at least 10 of them in various spots.

This is what I'm basing this on, but with a 2-prong toggle switch instead of remote. http://www.eveningillusions.com/wiring.htm

Please let me know if I'm just making this $h*t worse. Thanks again!

Does anyone know of any stores or places I should look to pick up some of these Wago Lever Lock quick connect wire terminals in the picture below (or something similiar)?
 

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It sounds like you may be crossing terms here.

Connecting them end to end would be running them in series.

Connecting each of them to the same = & - would be running them in parallel.

Not that you care, but it makes a difference in you load calculation to determine how many you can run on a single run.

They should have come with some indication of load per strip so you can do the math if you wanted to run them in series, but you can skip all of that by just going with the scheme in your diagram, which would be running them in parallel.

Stick to that diagram and you should be able to run as many as you like without needing to do any math.

You can also skip those connector by going to home depot. With wire-nuts and the like, there are simple plug in multi-connectors. They come in 3 slots up to like 8 or so. If you need more than that, use a jumper wire from one connector to the other.

Good luck.

Let us know how it comes out.
 

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I am interested in this answer to (leverlocks). I would have thought they would install in succession like you did the first time around too.:-[
 

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I believe your severly over thinkin these....

The easiest way to do all of this is to place all the lights where you want them....run all the wires back to the battery box...marry all the pos wires leading to the lights together and then marry all the neg wires together...and then go from there to the switch and fuse combo.

LEDs are polarity sensitive and only work with the polarity one way...pos to pos and neg to neg. If you hook them up backwards anywhere they just will not work. You can't tear them up or blow them.

I have a simple schematic at the house and can send it to you this evening when I get back home if you need.


Feel free to gimme a holler if you need help. I can walk you thru th einstall over the phone if need be.
 

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Oh...and those leverlocks aren't worth the time or cash.

Do they work? Yes....but you have a better chance keeping you connections solid by using a standard butt connector.

But if you really want them I think JoeFlorida has them.
 

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Those lever locks are a PITA!!!!

I've used them before to install LEDs on a M109R (not mine). After messing around with them for about 20 minutes. I tossed them in the parts bin and went with J-connectors.

I recommend using micro-t or micro-jst connectors. You can get them by the bag full with wires already set for a few bucks.

MAKE SURE THE LEDS ARE RATED FOR 12 VOLT APPLICATIONS! If they are for 9 volt applications, you will burn them out. You will need a buck puck (or similar device) to limit the current going to them.

If your looking for complete LED lighting kits?

Goto http://www.customdynamics.com/motorcycle_lights.htm#LED Accent Lights

Note: If you get the wireless remote, you can wire each strip individually for awesome LED lighting effects.









 

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Hey Del, how did you get the light strips under the instrument cluster on the gas tank? Dumb question but I don't want to assume anything! Thanks!
 

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Hey Del, how did you get the light strips under the instrument cluster on the gas tank? Dumb question but I don't want to assume anything! Thanks!
3M automotive double sided tape. Ran the wires along with the wire bundle already there.
 

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Hey Del, how did you get the light strips under the instrument cluster on the gas tank? Dumb question but I don't want to assume anything! Thanks!
pull the bolt closest to seat on that cover and lift up and push forward....

run the wires along the speedo wires...

let me know if I can help!
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thank you everyone for all of the help. I just went ahead and connected all of the positives together and the same for the negatives....ran the fuse, switch, etc and am now drinking some beer and checking it out in the garage.

Got much better at soldering in the process too, I needed to make each connector wire longer to run from various spots.

In all, I got 11 strips of 12 LED's mounted. One strip crapped out on me, so I lost the second one I was going to run in the front fender. Guess I'm going to have to get some more at some point......
 
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