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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just took off the rubber that directs air flow to the filter and I drilled my stock pipes. Will this give me more horsepower? Or force me to get a fuel injection controller? Do you think this will make the bike run lean? I can't take my bike out at the moment but I will tomorow. :dontknow:
 

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I just took off the rubber that directs air flow to the filter and I drilled my stock pipes. Will this give me more horsepower? Or force me to get a fuel injection controller? Do you think this will make the bike run lean? I can't take my bike out at the moment but I will tomorow. :dontknow:
I have the rubber hoses off and drilled pipes, and yes you will tell some difference in power. And if you drilled the 8 of 1/2" holes you will like that too. Mine was already running real lean before I did the drilling but if anything it made it a little richer. I now do have an Fuel Commander but not because of the drilled pipes. Let us know after you ride..........
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks Pam, you were right. I think I did get a little horsepower boost but not much. My bike did seem to ride better, smother. I road for about 80 miles yesterday and while cruising at lower speeds she seemed less jumpy like this has reduced the surging. What this really did was help curve my desire for a new exhaust system. I drilled 8; 1/4 inch holes and I used a 7/8 hole saw on the top pipe and 1 1/8 hole saw on the buttom baffles. It sounds like I need to increese the 8 to 1/2 inch.
 

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drilling

Thanks Pam, you were right. I think I did get a little horsepower boost but not much. My bike did seem to ride better, smother. I road for about 80 miles yesterday and while cruising at lower speeds she seemed less jumpy like this has reduced the surging. What this really did was help curve my desire for a new exhaust system. I drilled 8; 1/4 inch holes and I used a 7/8 hole saw on the top pipe and 1 1/8 hole saw on the buttom baffles. It sounds like I need to increese the 8 to 1/2 inch.
Yes, change the 1/4 to 1/2 to get a deeper sound. But if you are on a C109 where did you drill the 7/8 and 1 1/8 holes? On C109 the baffles are not in the center pipes like on the M109.
 

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if you increase the air flow to motor (intake mods) and air flow out (exhaust mods) you are going to lean the motor out not make it rich

with the increased air flow you need more fuel to keep safe ratio

most cars/bikes come on the lean side from factory to meet emissions, if you lean it out even more you can cause major engine failure
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I'm sorry it took so lone to get back to you but it was my son's birthday and the wife didn't want me on the computer.

Pam, I drilled the larger holes straight down the center like the M's and I used a 16inch extension. If I didn't hit the baffle what did I hit? This definitely made the bike louder. I will increase the 1/4 inch holes to 1/2 inch tomorrow.

Jimmy, are you saying I should put the rubber tubes back in by the filter until I get a FI controller? The bike seems to be running smother and she is definitely faster.
 

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Last summer, before I got the BigAir setup, I took out the rubber tubes. It was a stinkin' hot 90 degree day. It caused a dead spot around 4,000 RPM. Put them back and the dead spot went away. I had debaffled / drilled exhaust.
I guess they are there for a reason...
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Last summer, before I got the BigAir setup, I took out the rubber tubes. It was a stinkin' hot 90 degree day. It caused a dead spot around 4,000 RPM. Put them back and the dead spot went away. I had debaffled / drilled exhaust.
I guess they are there for a reason...
Thanks for the heads up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I don't have the bigair kit. I don't believe they will fit our C's intake. All I did was remove the 1 1/4 inch, rubber tub inside my stock air-box. The one that directs the air flow inside the air-box. I'm hopping K&M will complete their new filter for our bikes soon. The filter they have for the M's wont fit ours.
 

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not 100% sure what tube your talking about, some auto air boxes have a routing tube to keep debris from impacting the filter, as long as your air flow isnt substantially increased you should be ok
 

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Pamm, I drilled the larger holes straight down the center like the M's and I used a 16inch extension. If I didn't hit the baffle what did I hit? This definitely made the bike louder. I will increase the 1/4 inch holes to 1/2 inch tomorrow.

Jimmy, are you saying I should put the rubber tubes back in by the filter until I get a FI controller? The bike seems to be running smother and she is definitely faster.[/quote]

If your bike is a C you drilled the wall out that enters into the cat chamber. You can look up the center pipe with a flashlight and you will see what looks like honeycone. It will make it louder because you are bypassing the baffles with the amount of air that passes thru the hole you drilled in the center pipe. If you want to see where your baffles are on the C look between the large chrome outside pipe and the center pipe thru one of your 1/2" holes with a flashlight and you will see them. More info on drilling the C9 is on thread: Drilling my C109 Pipes
http://www.m109riders.com/forums/showthread.php?t=107046

My C9 had a lean surge from new and drilling the 8 holes did not make the lean surge different or make the pipes pop or backfire and didn't require me to get a Commander. I did have to get a commander later to get rid of the lean surge I had from new that Suzuki would not fix.
 

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The consensus on the M is that when replacing exhaust or intakes with an aftermarket / performance unit, fuel management is not necessary. I had the stock replacement K&Ns and debaffled / drilled exhaust and did not have a problem.Someone posted a thread about the "bolt trick" that was common on classic (read OLD) bikes that adds a little backpressure and keeps it from running too lean. I did that and my 9 ran great.

If you install both aftermarket intakes and exhaust, THEN you need fuel managementt.

The "bolt trick" is to drill a hole in the exhaust tube (You don't need to drill the chrome) and put a bolt through, held in place by a nut on each side of the exhaust tube. I guess in the past, people welded a washer on the bolt and then turned it to achieve the results they wanted. Open (parallel to the exhaust) give max HP while "closed" gives you max Torque. I found that JUST the bolt make a big difference. The large increase in MPG had me convinced I was running too lean, Just installing the bolt returned it to the previuos MPG. Take a look here.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Thank you all for the input. This was a big help and I think I'll try the bolt trick this weekend. Did you use a galvanized ¼ - 20 bolt, then spray paint black?
 

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It was a bright bolt - Paint won't stick to galvanized metal. You could use high heat paint if you wanted. I did not and it always stayed black. And yes, I'm pretty sure it was a 1/4 20.
 
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