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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The dealer over filled the oil, so i took my bike back to them to correct it. Before i did so i cleaned and polished it so that i would know if they scratched it . When i got it back i noticed the chrome around the oil fill was scratched , not major but enough to convince
me to do my own oil changes. The drain bolts look like they used a pair of pliers to loosen
and tighten them.

can i use a socket to preform the oil change or do i need a torque wrench?

is it the same for the final gear oil?

I've read to use crush washers also, are these the same as locking washers?
 

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I stripped my threads with an 8" socket wrench.

I would use a crush washer and a torque wrench. Everyone told me to thread it by hand first and it wouldn't strip, but I had already done that.

Use a crush washer and a torque wrench.
 

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I had posted some oil change questions in a rear end oil thread and figured I would post them here too since I just found this thread and this is probably where they belong. I will edit my other message to link here for the oil questions.

Thanks guys for giving such good information but I still have a few follow up questions.

1. Do I need a stand in order to change the oil?
2. If you said no, then I ask do YOU use a stand to change your oil?
3. yes or no, do you recommend a stand for my arsenal if I am just getting started working on bikes? And, what type do you recommend as I have read postings of this bike design being unstable on some stands.
4. Is it a good precaution to have an oil wrench? Is there a special oil wrench for motorcycles/Suzuki's or this particular bike that is better then others?
5. I think I can see the oil filter and it looks pretty tight, do I have to take any peices of the bike apart to get proper access to it?
6. Is 20w-50 Castrol Synthetic (purchased at the motorcycle dealer) going to be sufficient or do I need something thinner?
7. I see the manual has pretty decent instructions on how to change the oil but there were some references I saw to 3.8qts and 5.0qts, if I follow your instructions below from WANTED and add 3qts, run it and then add the rest. Is the rest 0.8qts or is it 2.0qts? I know how to check my oil level, so I will know when it's right but just wanted to have an idea of how much total it should take.

I think I feel an official "how-to" coming on....

Thanks,

-Tim
 

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There is a whole thread on it which I am not taking the time to find right now.

Suffice it to say the oil change is 3.8 with filter and 3.6 without filter, the rest is 0.8. Capacity is 5.2 for an engine rebuild. It is pretty dumb.

Don't need a stand but I would get one. Craftsman works for me with straps

Lots of ways to get the filter off. Don't remove the plastic. Suzuki end cap wrench or a strap type wrench.

20w 50 is fine. Lots of guys recomend synth and lots recomend amsoil.

Remember to run it for 15 minutes to check the level and to change the oil when warm.

And don't screw in the dipstick to check the level. Just place it in till it stops.

Check rear end oil too. Some shavings and bluing residue.
 

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dilbertian said:
I had posted some oil change questions in a rear end oil thread and figured I would post them here too since I just found this thread and this is probably where they belong. I will edit my other message to link here for the oil questions.

Thanks guys for giving such good information but I still have a few follow up questions.

1. Do I need a stand in order to change the oil?
2. If you said no, then I ask do YOU use a stand to change your oil?
3. yes or no, do you recommend a stand for my arsenal if I am just getting started working on bikes? And, what type do you recommend as I have read postings of this bike design being unstable on some stands.
4. Is it a good precaution to have an oil wrench? Is there a special oil wrench for motorcycles/Suzuki's or this particular bike that is better then others?
5. I think I can see the oil filter and it looks pretty tight, do I have to take any peices of the bike apart to get proper access to it?
6. Is 20w-50 Castrol Synthetic (purchased at the motorcycle dealer) going to be sufficient or do I need something thinner?
7. I see the manual has pretty decent instructions on how to change the oil but there were some references I saw to 3.8qts and 5.0qts, if I follow your instructions below from WANTED and add 3qts, run it and then add the rest. Is the rest 0.8qts or is it 2.0qts? I know how to check my oil level, so I will know when it's right but just wanted to have an idea of how much total it should take.

I think I feel an official "how-to" coming on....

Thanks,

-Tim
1. No.

2. No. Because the two drain bolts are on the left side, you will get better drainage if you leave it on the side stand.

3. Yes. There are some nice (read: expensive) stands out there (do a Google and you'll see what I mean). I use the good ol' Craftsman lift, and while it's not to nicest stand out there, it gets the job done.

4. Get the low-profile Suzuki wrench cap (part number is in manual). It's like $5 or $6. Much easier than using a strap or pliers.

5. Not if you use the Suzuki wrench cap.

6. I think 10w-40 is plenty thick enough in a water-cooled bike. Castrol ain't my favorite, but it's decent.

7. 3.8 quarts. Add three, run bike for a couple minutes, add the remaining 0.8.

Good luck! :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks,

Can i get any ol torque wrench or is there a specific one. I've never used one, is it like a socket on the end to fit different sizes?

Are crusher washers the same thing as locking washers. Crushers sound like a rubber
material. I ask cause it looks like the dealer has locking washers on it.
 

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Crush washers and lock washers are not the same thing. Lock washers do not 'crush'. They simply have a cut and then are 'bent' and tightening them between a bolt and surface unflexes the 'bend'. A crush washer is made of a very soft material that literally crushes a little flatter. It will NOT rebound, though, like rubber. Sometimes you can get away with reusing them once, but after that, it is likely they will leak. They are not there to prevent the bolt from backing out like a lock washer. (That is what the proper torque spec is for). They are there to form a good seal.
 
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