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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Rode about 10 miles to doctor and noticed oil light on. Got home and filled up oil and noticed almost no coolant. Filled up coolant. Rode 3.1 miles and the same thing happened. Coolant low again but no oil light. Rode 3.1 miles and oil light on, came home and coolant past the low mark. No white smoke, no leak under bike. I will take tank off again tomorrow and check hoses and see it I can look down and see a leak. If head gasket, I would see white smoke. Oil looks good so not mixing coolant and oil. If I can't find it within a week I am going to trade it in, but I love my 2006 silver beast with over 76K miles.

Any suggestions?

Doc
 

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The oil light means loss of oil pressure , if you get an oil light on any car or bike , shut it off immediately. If you only filled the coolant reservoir , the rest was still out and it pulled in the little amount the reservoir holds.
 

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Red fault lamp will annunciate on both low oil pressure or high coolant temperature. (See #8 below)
When the red fault lamp is on look at the lower right side of the tachometer to see if the issue is oil pressure or coolant temperature. (See #6 below)
Since you are low on coolant it was probably on due to coolant temp.

Check the hose near your left foot coming off the pump & the short 90 degree hose between the two heads that connects the rear head and the thermostat housing. These two are typical leakers and often times its just loose hose clamps.
But at 76K and 15 years you could be leaking from anywhere if you are still running stock coolant lines. If so its time for a full coolant system service and complete cooling line replacement.

From your post it sounds like you are only checking and filling the reservoir. Pull your tank and neck covers to check the coolant level at the radiator cap. You may find you are very low on coolant.

BCS
 

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Red fault lamp will annunciate on both low oil pressure or high coolant temperature. (See #8 below)
This was good to know,I’ve never over heated and wondered about
What light should pop on!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Red fault lamp will annunciate on both low oil pressure or high coolant temperature. (See #8 below)
When the red fault lamp is on look at the lower right sight of the tachometer to see if the issue is oil pressure or coolant temperature. (See #6 below)
Since you are low on coolant it was probably on due to coolant temp.

Check the hose near your left foot coming off the pump & the short 90 degree hose between the two heads that connects the rear head and the thermostat housing. These two are typical leakers and often times its just loose hose clamps.
But at 76K and 15 years you could be leaking from anywhere if you are still running stock coolant lines. If so its time for a full coolant system service and complete cooling line replacement.

From your post it sounds like you are only checking and filling the reservoir. Pull your tank and neck covers to check the coolant level at the radiator cap. You may find you are very low on coolant.

BCS
Thank you, I will check it tomorrow. I will let you know what I find.
 

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Wow, talk about a name from the past.
He must've been inactive for a long time. I checked his activity, nothing except this post and one 7 hours ago. All his past history is gone. I know what you mean, I recall him from the good old days on here.
 

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He must've been inactive for a long time. I checked his activity, nothing except this post and one 7 hours ago. All his past history is gone. I know what you mean, I recall him from the good old days on here.
He was on a few months ago too. I remember helping him with something. Not sure how long ago but it was after the new forum format started.

Here it is, you have to look under Discussions to find it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
He must've been inactive for a long time. I checked his activity, nothing except this post and one 7 hours ago. All his past history is gone. I know what you mean, I recall him from the good old days on here.
they deleted my posts, oh no, LOL
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
He was on a few months ago too. I remember helping him with something. Not sure how long ago but it was after the new forum format started.

Here it is, you have to look under Discussions to find it.
yes I have been inactive but still riding the mighty silver beast

Doc
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
He must've been inactive for a long time. I checked his activity, nothing except this post and one 7 hours ago. All his past history is gone. I know what you mean, I recall him from the good old days on here.
Nice to be remembered

Doc
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
took
Thank you, I will check it tomorrow. I will let you know what I find.


Removed the frame covers to expose the radiator and filled it from the top. Filled the reservoir. No leaks. Went for a short ride. No leaks. Will go for a longer ride tomorrow to see if it overheats. If ok I will put the frame covers back on.

I feel better.

bering c sparky your post helped.

thanks to all,

Doc
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Removed the frame covers to expose the radiator and filled it from the top. Filled the reservoir. No leaks. Went for a short ride. No leaks. Will go for a longer ride tomorrow to see if it overheats. If ok I will put the frame covers back on.

I feel better.

bering c sparky your post helped.

thanks to all,

Doc
 

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they deleted my posts, oh no, LOL
I just looked again and they're all there. I don't know what happened, last time I looked, just two. Must've been a glitch.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Well red light came on and the tach had coolant symbol. I cannot find a leak anywhere. Could it build up pressure while riding and push it out the overflow tube that hangs down?
 

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Well red light came on and the tach had coolant symbol. I cannot find a leak anywhere. Could it build up pressure while riding and push it out the overflow tube that hangs down?
Please check if your radiator fan is functioning properly or working at all.
 

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It can push it out the overflow tube if the radiator pushes enough fluid into the reservoir to fill it up enough. I'd do as thevili suggested and check to make sure the fan is operating. These don't normally run hot if everything is OK.

Do you know if the reservoir or radiator was low this time when the light came on? And at any point after it came on could you hear or feel the fan running? It could also be the thermostat has started sticking closed.
 

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Thermostat, coolant pump, fan , radiator cap, temp sensor, diluted/incorrect coolant mixture or even old coolant all could possibly cause the liquid in your coolant system to overheat and boil out through the reservoir and overflow.

Just have to pin down what the exact cause is.
But again, with your milage, I would be leaning toward going through the entire system and do a complete coolant system maintenance/overhaul.

Should be easy to tell if the fan is working or not, as it should have been on and spinning if the bike was hot enough to annunciate the high cooling temp fault indicator.

Be careful overheating her though, when that idiot light comes on for high coolant temp, best to stop right then and not try to push it any farther. Aluminum components can be very unforgiving when overheated.
 

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I have a temperature gauge on my bike and if sitting still for more than a couple minutes the fan should come on if it's up to temp. Happens at every light during the summer months. BCS is correct about Alum. If your bike got that hot you may want to do a compression test for the head gaskets. You can rent the equipment at any auto parts store nowadays. Just don't put so much pressure that you blow the gaskets with that many miles. It will also help find any leaks. Mine was leaking out of the radiator cap even after replacing it with a new one. Turns out the overflow bottle was plugged at the bottom not allowing the pressure to release.

Mine got hot a couple years ago due to the thermostat being stuck partially open. It ended up blowing the o-ring seals going into the heads. Not a fun job to replace $1.50 worth of parts. A couple days later one of the 90° elbows blew. Good advice for anyone replacing these seals is to not put it back together with the hose clamps facing up while the throttle body is off. Tighten them from the side as if it is assembled.
 
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