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Did I ruin my rotor?

2K views 18 replies 6 participants last post by  Spillman 
#1 ·
My brake shoes lasted for 30k miles and were running thin except for the rear one, it was down to the metal and had made some gouging on the rotor.

I changed them and rode 3k miles went I heard a hard scraping when I came to a stop. It was the rear pads again, down to the metal again.

Is this going to happen from now on on my rear brakes?

Did I ruin my rear rotor and now I need to replace the rotor?

Is there a fix like sanding or somehow smoothing out the rotor, I have never heard of motorcycle rotors being turned.

If I do need to replace it is $230-ish the best price anyone has seen.

Once again I appreciate the info/feedback/advice.

Thanks


Ray
:super:
 
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#2 ·
How about a pic of it? There is a spec to the rotor. You just need to mic it and see if it is above spec and replace or resurface as needed. Keep in mind that the thinner the rotor gets, it will heat up faster. Are you sure that you do not have a caliper or brake line hanging up causing the rear pads to wear out that fast?
 
#4 ·
rynosback,

When I noticed the pads were worn out I rode straight to the dealer and showed him the rotor. They had worked on the engine just a month ago for the bad clutch and in the process had to disconnect the rear line to do the work.

They put it up on the lift and checked it to see if it might be hanging or not releasing causing the pads to wear prematurely.

That was ok, they said a rough rotor would wear out a new pad fast which is what they thing is the problem here.

I dont see any bad gouges on the rotor, in fact its more like extra metal material from the pads that appear to be in places on the rotor. Its hard to tell from the pics. I cant mic it but the finger test as you run it across the rotor says there is no real wear on the rotor its self, just some extra metal in places and hard metal rubbing on it, if that makes any sense.

Can a bike rotor be turned, they said it couldn't.
 
#13 ·
Sounds reasonable.

Worst case scenario I will need to replace the rotor anyway.

I forgot to mention that this outer side of the rotor is the only side effected. The side of the rotor to the wheel is unaffected.

I was really joking about the chisel but it seems that removing the extra material could get the rotor working right again.

Of course all that extra work could be eliminated by just replacing the rotor with a used one.

Weigh the cost of materials against the cost of replacement, hmmmmmm

Thanks tpres500

Ray
:super:
If the rotor surface is otherwise unaffected, then carefully chiseling the balls off (on the rotor please not on yourself:D) then carefully sanding them smooth will probably solve the issue.
 
#16 ·
I would try sanding a small area on it with 100 to 120 grit emery cloth and see what it does. It's hard to tell in the pictures if it's galling or if it's just built up pad material. Once you sand it off you can tell if it's galling because there will be small pits, or sometimes longer strips, where the rotor material was removed and displaced.

You said the inside looks good, did the pads wear on that side too?
 
#17 ·
I would try sanding a small area on it with 100 to 120 grit emery cloth and see what it does. It's hard to tell in the pictures if it's galling or if it's just built up pad material. Once you sand it off you can tell if it's galling because there will be small pits, or sometimes longer strips, where the rotor material was removed and displaced.

You said the inside looks good, did the pads wear on that side too?
Zoom,

yes is did wear down the pad but did not get down to the metal.

Seems the inside of the rotor is good.
 
#18 ·
your rear rotor does not look thin... I change my rear pads with each rear tire and the same for the front...
This has happen to me once, I got lucky as it was not too deep... I drop some EBC pads on and they smooth the rotor out after about 500+ miles 7000 miles later, I'm on next rear tire and another set of EBC... no problem
 
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