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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
SO:
I'm riding with my sportsbike buddies on the weekend and had the opportunity to REALLY get ON IT on a stretch of long straigh open road. So I open her up and managed to get her up to a fairly decent speed and got the revs up to 6500 in 5th.:doorag:

Problems started a short time after that down the road.
The symptoms were that I would go to open the throttle, and the revs would climb right up but there is no (or very little) torque/pull/acceleration. Almost feels like your're revving the bike with the clutch lever pulled in!:eek:
It got so bad that I couldn't take off from the intersection for a while. I had to let it roll up at about 2K RPM in first gear then change etc.
We all stopped and let the bike cool down a bit. We adjusted the clutch cable from the lever and let it get as slack as it could.
This fixed it enough that I could get the revs to about 3500 rpm. But it would still 'slip' if I got on the throttle too hard.
I left the ride and went straight home (2 hours away) and it was doing 110-120 kph in 5th on the highway, but again I couldn't really get the revs up without it 'slipping' and losing speed.

Any idea what this might be?? ??????
I need to be somewhat informed so I don't get shafted by the stealer when I take it in on Wednesday.

From what I read, the symptoms of the 'Clutch Tube Nut' issue is that the bike will just NOT move forward and get stuck in gear?? So, hopefully, it's not that.???

Could it be that my clutch cable became 'trapped' under the engine mount when I opened her up and now it's stuck down there?????

:dontknow::dontknow:

Help please??!?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Bad news is hard to listen to! :':)'(
Been trawling the interwebs all day looking for another solution to what it might actually be but it sounds like you guys may be right.
Went for a ride at lunchtime just to see how bad it is:
Basically, when rolling off, it all appears almost normal, in all gears. However, if I open the throttle, the revs go up but the bike takes quite a while to accelerate to the speed which it should have at that rev level.
Engine braking is also much less than what it should be.
Best way to describe the whole thing is that "something" is slipping and sliding in there and not grabbing and pulling like it should.

Hope the warranty covers it... :pray:
 

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AGREE , the clutch is toasted , you might not have had a enough free play on the lever .....
 

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My bike did the same thing. It wasnt my clutch. It was the cable. You said you adjusted it on the lever end, but have u ever adjusted it on the motor end?

The clutch on this bike sucks. I have my clutch adjusted to the point where it disengages when I pull it all the way to my grip and starts to grab as soon as I move my lever from my grip.

I would suggest u adjust ur clutch cable properly before u start taking things off to get to ur clutch basket
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
My bike did the same thing. It wasnt my clutch. It was the cable. You said you adjusted it on the lever end, but have u ever adjusted it on the motor end?

The clutch on this bike sucks. I have my clutch adjusted to the point where it disengages when I pull it all the way to my grip and starts to grab as soon as I move my lever from my grip.

I would suggest u adjust ur clutch cable properly before u start taking things off to get to ur clutch basket
Thanks Irish.

Nah. I've never adjusted it from the motor end.
The lever end is all the way out now, so no more to give. But with that setup though, the problem got 100% better, to the point that I could ride back home. So your theory makes sense.

I'll get the clutch cable checked from the motor end. Hopefully that should do it.
 

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if its not the cable it takes no more then 15 minutes to pull your clutch out to check if its smoked. you can by a complete clutch kit for relatively cheap and while your in there, pull that clutch hub off and put some blue locktite on the clutch nut.
 

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Good advice on going for after market heavy duty clutch (I'd suggest springs as well - if your hand can take it). Once the clutch starts slipping - it only gets worse - this is exactly why I changed mine and have clutch start engaging almost as soon as I start releasing that level or otherwise you would still find clutch cable tension under load (even if re-routed from under the engine mount - which you should do as well if you haven't already).
 

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:eek:I hope for your sake that it is the cable, but I don't think so:eek:
:dontknow:I had exactly the same happen to me this past Sunday evening while driving - My clutch (heavy duty) is cooked :edit: !!!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
To keep you updated:

I adjusted the clutch cable at the motor, but (as expected), it didn't fix it completely. :-\
First of all, I couldn't get that sweet spot where the clutch cable would be slack enough not to pull on the clutch when under load while still be taut enough to disengage the clutch when pulled in.

The best I can figure, EVEN when completely slack, the slippage still occurs. :'(I had a couple of moments when I thought things might have fixed themselves, only to find that the slippage is still there when under load WOT.:-\

Bike's at the stealer's now. These f*ckfaces, even BEFORE I actually brought it in, started talking about 'abusing the clutch' etc. :evil:I cut that sh*t short though and let them know (and showed them) that they hadn't performed the Suzuki clutch adjustment procedure before they gave sold me the bike, so if anything is stuffed, I'll have their nutsack for a wallet!!:evil::evil::evil:
That being said, they've got my Baby hostage and in pieces by now, so they can ask and say whatever they want now.:-\

Anyone got any ideas as to how I can get them to honour the warranty??:dontknow:
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
:eek:I hope for your sake that it is the cable, but I don't think so:eek:
:dontknow:I had exactly the same happen to me this past Sunday evening while driving - My clutch (heavy duty) is cooked :edit: !!!!
Sucks to be us right now, buddy!:'(
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Just got the call: Australian $900!!!!:eek:


I feel like I've just been ******* HARD, and they didn't even take me out for dinner and a dance first!! :cus::cus::cus::cus::cus::cus:
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
WOW!! The *******g CHEEK of those guys!!:verymad:

Just got another call from the Stealer:
NOT $900 anymore.
Noooooo, that would be too easy!

Instead, it's now $917!!!!!

Seriously!! ???:verymad:
$17!!!!! :verymad:
Couldn't even wipe THAT off! ??????

I SERIOUSLY have to learn how to do this sh*t myself!

<ok...I've gotta chill the f*ck out before I turn up there to pick the bike up, or I feel I'll be shoving a *******g monkey wrench up someone's *******g @$$!!!> :verymad::verymad::verymad:
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
OK, last post on this issue:

Picked up my bike yesterday. The shop had ordered and installed, the following:
Plate Clutch Drive 1
Plate Clutch Drive 2
Plate Clutch Drive 3
Plate Clutch Drive 4
Plate Clutch Driven 1
Plate Clutch Driven 2
Plus changed the oil etc.

The mechanic showed me the clutch plates:- The teeth had been scrubbed SMOOTH!! No wonder it was slipping.
They'd also done the Suzuki Clutch Adjustment (to which I added a couple more milimetres)

Result?
F*CK ME!, My BEAST IS BACK! :eek::bigthumbsup::eek:

I hadn't realised for how LONG and how MUCH the bike was slipping??!
It must have been going on for months!!:redfaced:

The bike now feels like it's a BEAST again!! So angry and responsive!:drool:

I'm in love all over again!!:drool::drool::drool::drool::drool:
:bigthumbsup::bigthumbsup::bigthumbsup::bigthumbsup::bigthumbsup:
 

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AGREE , the clutch is toasted , you might not have had a enough free play on the lever .....
:agree:And they may say YOU burnt it up! When it wasn't adjusted right from the get go! They may point a finger at you. I'd rather have a tubular nut problem! That you just put back on! If you don't have play on your clutch lever, you will smoke your clutch. Because when you get on it, and it don't need to be hard your clutch cable WILL tighten up! Thats why you need that play without it, your smoking your clutch. And thats what I think has happened!
And if i'm right and there going to stick it to ya! I'd buy the parts, and do a search, and find the how too. And do it myself, I believe there is a how to. TRUST ME!! Your not the first to have a clutch problem, here on this forum!! Keep us posted, as to what your told.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
:agree:And they may say YOU burnt it up! When it wasn't adjusted right from the get go! They may point a finger at you. I'd rather have a tubular nut problem! That you just put back on! If you don't have play on your clutch lever, you will smoke your clutch. Because when you get on it, and it don't need to be hard your clutch cable WILL tighten up! Thats why you need that play without it, your smoking your clutch. And thats what I think has happened!
And if i'm right and there going to stick it to ya! I'd buy the parts, and do a search, and find the how too. And do it myself, I believe there is a how to. TRUST ME!! Your not the first to have a clutch problem, here on this forum!! Keep us posted, as to what your told.
EVERYTHING you said here is EXACTLY what happened!!!!!

I remember the last time I took it in for a service: On leaving, the head mechanic said something about "that clutch lever on the M109R is SOO freaking stiff - We couldn't get it to go right". I was so glad to get my beast back that I didn't pay attention!!!!! :doh::doh::doh:
What they HAD done was overtighten the clutch cable!!
I noticed, when riding away that the bike didn't appear as powerful or 'jerky/nervy' as I remembered it, the clutch cable slack was also gone (which I always used to notice tightening once I got on it!): I put that down to having romanticised/exagerated exactly how powerful the bike was.
In reality, the bike has been slipping the clutch SINCE THEN!! That was MONTHS back!

Now that it's fixed and the right cable slack is back, the bike shifts SO MUCH BETTER, and it feels like I've added another 50 BHP to it!!!!

AUD$$$900 LATER:
AN EXPENSIVE LESSON LEARNT: CHECK YOUR CLUTCH CABLE PLAY AND MAKE SURE YOU HAVE THE RIGHT SLACK!!

http://www.jsdproducts.com/m109/Tech_Bull/asmc_005865.pdf
 

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slipping clutch

Just called my dealer as my clutch has just started slipping when engging first gear from a standing start, usually only when I take off in the morning, or after work when its been idle for a while and I hop on her to ride home.

Was a little shocked to find that at just 3500km I may need new clutch plates. Hopefully its just a tightening of the tubuler nut, although speaking to the guy who sold me the bike 4 months ago he has agreed that it will be coverred by warrenty. Speaking to the mechanic he bet his left testicle that the cause of the problem is leaving the bike idling on the kick stand for too long and the angle drains the oil away from the clutch plates. Anyway is anyone else aware of this being the cause of the clutch slipping problem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Just called my dealer as my clutch has just started slipping when engging first gear from a standing start, usually only when I take off in the morning, or after work when its been idle for a while and I hop on her to ride home.

Was a little shocked to find that at just 3500km I may need new clutch plates. Hopefully its just a tightening of the tubuler nut, although speaking to the guy who sold me the bike 4 months ago he has agreed that it will be coverred by warrenty. Speaking to the mechanic he bet his left testicle that the cause of the problem is leaving the bike idling on the kick stand for too long and the angle drains the oil away from the clutch plates. Anyway is anyone else aware of this being the cause of the clutch slipping problem.
Hmmm...doesn't sound good. Here's what I learnt:
Clutch stuck in gear = clutch nut
Clutch slipping = clutch plates :(

Do the clutch cable adjustment procedure (search!). That should make it better, if it doesn't fix it.

If it's the clutch plate, they'll probably not want to replace it under warranty: they'll blame wear & tear or "Rider Abuse"

REALLY hope I'm wrong!
 
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