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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Less than 2500 miles from new, less than 1000 miles into my ownership, my M109 took a crap. On the highway, (in traffic, left lane of course) doing 80-90, all the lights started flashing, tach and speedo turning on and off... couple minutes later, the engine started surging and sputtering in delayed shadowing of the electrical. Got pulled off the highway and onto a side road before it died altogether. Electrics now completely dead. Tow truck came and hauled it back the 30 miles to the dealership. (I better NOT be getting a towing bill is my thinking.) Last thing the two truck driver said to me was, "Man, I'd be really pissed if that was my bike." Yeah, right. :edit:
 

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sounds like something probably cut or rubbed through a hot wire on your bike.......and the result is probably some serious electrical issues. Good thing it's going into the winter months, because the dealership will probably have the bike for a while. :(


Sorry to hear it. Keep us updated on what the dealership finds out.
 
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I've run into something very close to this and after looking at mods that I'd done the day before I found out that some of my grounding wasn't quit right, the issue I saw was also pipes giving me a hard time tec going nuts and bike shutting down, fixed the grounding checked all the fuses started up the bike and haven't had the problem since. If the dealer takes to long just tell him/her what has been done on the bike and that should cut down your time to fix.

Good luck
hb
 

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firecat said:
I've run into something very close to this and after looking at mods that I'd done the day before I found out that some of my grounding wasn't quit right, the issue I saw was also pipes giving me a hard time tec going nuts and bike shutting down, fixed the grounding checked all the fuses started up the bike and haven't had the problem since. If the dealer takes to long just tell him/her what has been done on the bike and that should cut down your time to fix.

Good luck
hb
I agree Firecat, it does sound like a ground problem or something is loose electrically.

Chuck
 

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HalGreenlee said:
Battery lug not tight ????
That would be the first thing I looked at :bigthumbsup:
 

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yea that does sound like what firecat stated but man you was lucky it could have been alot worse glad you are ok
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
So the initial diagnoses is back from the dealer: Bad battery!

Does that even make sense to anybody? I mean, I can believe that something else may have caused the battery now to be "bad", but for that to be the source of the problem?

My fear is getting the bike back with a new battery. It running for a few days. Then the exact same scenario playing out. Like someone else pointed out, this time I was lucky. I'm not really wanting to count on my luck during a repeat performance.

Are these electronics super voltage sensitive or something? I don't know much electronics, but its hard for me to imagine the battery itself acting almost like an on/off switch. Maybe if the electronics were sensitive to a drop below a certain voltage, I could see that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
HalGreenlee said:
Like anything else, new batteries can be bad. Just ask Sony with their recall of millions of batteries.
Correct me if I'm wrong here: Isn't a motorcycle battery a very low tech thing not unlike a car battery? Not lithium polymer whatever like computer batteries etc. and of course not under the same constant strain of charge/discharge as in a laptop either.

A bit off topic but along the same lines: Are battery tenders/trickle chargers a near requirement on modern bikes like the M109R?
 

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Bad batteries can easily do that, and motorcycle batteries have that happen far more than car batteries. Basically, there is probably something in the battery that is connecting sometimes, and isn't at other times. As long as it wasn't sending a surge of power to other things and damaging them, you should be ok.

If you do get it back and still have the problem, then you will have the new battery and they will still need to fix the real problem.
 

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HalGreenlee said:
Like anything else, new batteries can be bad. Just ask Sony with their recall of millions of batteries.
Well, their recall was because they were prone to bursting into flames/exploding because they got too hot...wasn't that they didn't power the laptops properly. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
ITguy said:
I don't think the consensus was a bad battery but rather a bad ground or hot wire grounding out. May have ended up making your battery bad but replacing it will end in the same result unless the actual problem is resolved first. Just what I got out of the thread.
Yeah, exactly what I'm thinking. We'll see...
 

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cbxer55 said:
A friend in California has a 83 Kawasaki GPZ1100, the first fuel injected bike.
gm2inco said:
Are these electronics super voltage sensitive or something?
Today's automotive and bike electronics should be very robust. As far as the 83 Kawasaki goes, you have to remember that the microprocessor was a fledgling thing at that time. The IBM PC first appeared in 1982. Auto and bike electronics with real computer brains were developed after that. Most likely the 83 Kawa didn't have a real microprocessor at all, and it's tricky stuff they are trying to control in fuel air delivery. It's no wonder they had problems. For this very reason, most early pre-microprocessor fuel injections used mechanical control. One exception was the Volkswagon Type 3 Fastback of 1969 and the early 70's. This was a pretty good little car except for the early electronic fuel injection system (Bosch I believe). The fuel injection was so problematic that some people turned to doing this. http://rides.webshots.com/album/550846869SalvZc

Of course this would have been handy too!
 

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GM,
I had the exact same thing happen to me. The bike was cruising along fine one minute and then the tach and speedo went dead, then the bike started choking and then died. Nothing! I only had 300 miles on mine. Dealer came and picked it up and took it back and checked everything. It too was a bad battery. They put in a new one and rechecked the entire bike. I am now at 3,000 miles without any more problems.
 

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firecat said:
I've run into something very close to this and after looking at mods that I'd done the day before I found out that some of my grounding wasn't quit right, the issue I saw was also pipes giving me a hard time tec going nuts and bike shutting down, fixed the grounding checked all the fuses started up the bike and haven't had the problem since. If the dealer takes to long just tell him/her what has been done on the bike and that should cut down your time to fix.

Good luck
hb
Agree with Firecat... I had a similar problem on my bike after I had added some lighting to it... I got done with the wiring, tied it all up, put it all back together, washed, waxed... then tried to start it so I could go to the Bike show I was supposed to be in and it wouldn't stay running... It would start and run for a few seconds then die. Then it just wouldn't even start anymore.
I heard the Injectors Charge, the SET move... but it wouldn't crank. It also kept giving me an FI light...

Long story short (If its not already too late), I had only hand snugged the Connection to the negative battery terminal when I was doing some testing and forgot to tighten it down with a wrench. The poor ground caused the whole deal. :redfaced:

After tightening the negative battery lead all of the problems went away.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
ramskat said:
GM,
I had the exact same thing happen to me. The bike was cruising along fine one minute and then the tach and speedo went dead, then the bike started choking and then died. Nothing! I only had 300 miles on mine. Dealer came and picked it up and took it back and checked everything. It too was a bad battery. They put in a new one and rechecked the entire bike. I am now at 3,000 miles without any more problems.
Thanks Ramskat! That's the sort of reassurance I'm needing. Please do keep me posted if any new issues arise, OK?
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
cbxer55 said:
My 81 CBX has a factory volt meter.
It has given me advance warning of a soon-to-be-dead battery 3 times in the 20 years I have owned it.
Think I want to install a volt geuge on the M.
If it works as well as you've experienced, I want one too!
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
JUtah said:
Agree with Firecat... I had a similar problem on my bike after I had added some lighting to it... I got done with the wiring, tied it all up, put it all back together, washed, waxed... then tried to start it so I could go to the Bike show I was supposed to be in and it wouldn't stay running... It would start and run for a few seconds then die. Then it just wouldn't even start anymore.
I heard the Injectors Charge, the SET move... but it wouldn't crank. It also kept giving me an FI light...

Long story short (If its not already too late), I had only hand snugged the Connection to the negative battery terminal when I was doing some testing and forgot to tighten it down with a wrench. The poor ground caused the whole deal. :redfaced:

After tightening the negative battery lead all of the problems went away.
I'm definitely trying to ingrain this sort of warning/suggestion in my brain for future reference. However, all I'd done was rotate the bars... besides that, the battery is dead which I'm guess isn't part of your and firecat's experience. Not dead as in rechargeble, but dead as in needing a replacement. I'll definitely be grounding aware after this thread however, so thanks!
 
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