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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hey guys, allow me to vent here a bit and please chime in with your thoughts and advice. Ive read all the Oil level check threads, and this is my second oil change on the 9 as I get ready for winter storage this year. (I did one last yr).

I Cannot get an accurate read on the dipstick with the 15/3 method

What I did:

Warm the bike up out side untill the sump was warm
Put bike on the side stand in the garage
Removed BOTH drain plugs & oil filter
Allowed the oil to drain for 1 hour (While I went to the dentist)
New crush washers on both drain plugs - reinstalled
New Oil Filter
Added 3 quarts of Oil
Ran the bike a few minutes & shut it off
Added another 600ml of oil. (at this point I still need to add ~150 ml to get to 3600ml of oil. 1 Qrt is 946ml)
Took the bike into town to gas it up and came home (15 minute ride round trip -- not at idle though)
Keeping bike upright after I shut it off I waited 3 minutes and checked the oil (did not screw in the dip stick) - 1/2 inch above the Hash marks. !!!
Still Only have 3450ml in it so far
Waited 30 min and checked it again - now its below the hash marks
Started the bike & shut off again - waited 3 minutes - checked the oil and still way over the full mark.

WFT ?

I may resort to the cold level check on the side stand with dip stick screwed all the way in tomorrow morning.

I did note that I got barely over 3 quarts out of it when I filled the empty oil containers with the used oil. no figging clue why that was, I put 3.6L in last fall, ive not burned or leaked any.

Thoughts ? Was my mistake checking it after a 15 min ride instead of after a 15 min "Idle" ??
 

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No. I used to check mine after riding it for hours. And yeah, hard to get a good reading. PITA. Most of us use what we call the cold check method nowadays. Do an oil change. Put in whatever amount of oil you use, I put in the entire four quarts and have done so with this bike for 15 years. After riding it and getting it warm, return it to the garage or wherever you park it and let it sit overnight. Next morning, check the dipstick with the bike on the side stand. Observe the oil level. From this point on, do it this way and strive to keep the oil level the same.

These bikes use oil, not a large amount, but they do. I usually end up adding around a quart in a 3000 mile oil change. If you don't keep it up, the shifting can get quite "notchy". Had a friend, that happened to him. He hadn't changed the oil in over five years because "I haven't ridden it that much." He was complaining to me about the shifting. I told him to bring it over to my place, let me change the oil. When I drained it, I got a little over 1.25 quarts. And he wondered why the shifting was bad!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
thanks, I assume with the cold check you screw the dip stick all the way in ?

I also tried this revised service bulletin approach and got completely the opposite result - didnt even show on the dip stick.


I can understand why these friggin oil check threads get so frustrating, im frustrated too
 

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2007 Candy Sonoma Red
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thanks, I assume with the cold check you screw the dip stick all the way in ?

I also tried this revised service bulletin approach and got completely the opposite result - didnt even show on the dip stick.


I can understand why these friggin oil check threads get so frustrating, im frustrated too
For the cold check, I just take mine out and look at it. If I check it twice I screw it back in to check it. Don't raise the bike u before doing it, and don't wait more than a couple days to check it this way. More than that and the oil will check low, as it goes somewhere.

What you are really trying to do is establish a point on the stick that is the same when cold as the hot check would be. It really doesn't matter if the dipstick is screwed in or not as long as you check it the same way each time and compare the reading to however you checked it hot.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Did my cold check this morning and it was right at the full mark. Ill be trying the 15/3 hot check again this weekend but only doing the 15 min at idle this time and we'll see how that goes.
 

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I have to ask cause I didn't see it mentioned, but when you were draining it, did you ever tip the bike straight up to make sure all the oil that could come out did? If you didn't, its possible you left some in there and hence the high readings.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
Hi yes, I tipped the bike straight briefly.

I re did the hot check 15 min idle and 3 minutes vertical with bike shut off - not even a drop on the dipstick !! WTF ?

I even checked it at 3 min , 4 min and 5 min. not a drop.

Put it back on the side stand fired it up, shut it off and back vertical im over full again. I have no friggin clue why this is so difficult. Im a smart man, I can follow instructions I know my way around a tool box and have restored many bikes.

I would like to satisfy myself by saying that I followed the shop manual when draining it and put the right amount of oil in it and also rely on the cold check, but this does have me concerned. I like to have the "expected result"

Very frustrating. If the next try doesnt work I may have to re-do the oil change to see ho much oil I can get out, really dont want to have too much oil in there

going to try this next:

"• Start up the engine and allow it to run about 15
minutes at idling speed. Be sure to keep the engine
speed at idling.

(the new part starts here)

• Keep the motorcycle upright and run the engine at
idling speed for 30 seconds.

• After the above, keep the motorcycle in the side-stand
position (with the side-stand applied) and run the
engine at idling speed for 10 seconds.

• Turn off the engine and wait about three minutes.

• Keep the motorcycle upright, then check the oil level
with the oil filler cap (2). (Do not screw the oil filler
cap.) If the oil level is out of the range, adjust the oil
level at the middle point between "B" and "A".
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
OK Guys, good news the above procedure works way better. and I got an accurate reading. hot check gives me a read right in the middle of the hash marks. Cold is right on the full mark.

Note that the newer version of the owners manual (which I just found online, mine didnt come with one) , has this same modified procedure !!!!

here it is.... steps 1 & 2 are bike on side stand idle for 15 minutes......

Font Material property Parallel
 

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I went through the same thing when I got my 9. Just went to the cold check method and never looked back. Now i just pull the dipstick out when its cold and if there is oil on it, Im good and just ride.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Yea, the good thing now is, now ive gotten a decent "hot " read I can be comfortable using the Cold method going forward if need be. Also, knowing that im draining it all and putting in exactly the volume of Oil that Suzuki recommends, I should be fine. The pitfalls of a semi dry sump system I guess.
 

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2014 M109R LE 2006 S83 1985 GSX750ESD
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This is how I do mine and have never had a problem, I let it sit overnight, then I remove both plugs and the filter, let it drain and every so often stand the bike up right, I do this 4 or 5 times. Refit plugs and new filter, slowly pour in 3700ml of oil, done. I check my oil cold and on the sidestand, just unscrew the dipstick and it is just on about the last 5mm of the stick. Never had an issue.
 
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