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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My m109r is fine!

When I got my m109r I gave my 2000 yamaha r6 to my wife now for some reason only three cylinders ar firing. I know this is off of the m109r subject, but I figure it is a general issue that someone here could hopefully help me with because i love this site and this bike so much.

Here's the problem I'm having:

My 2000 r6 was sitting for about a month in my garage prior to that it ran fine. I started it up about a week ago and noticed it sputtering. So I put fresh gas in it and it didn't help, I checked/cleaned the air filter, I changed the spark plugs drained the carbs checked the floats, checked my ignition coils (multimeter and spark test) the plugs have spark. Also checked the pickup coil and its good. Battery is charged up. Also did compression check and is good also.

When I did the spray test on the headers Cylinder 2 was cold (not firing) So I took out the ignition coils and made sure the connections were good, then I did another spray test and then 2 & 3 were not firing. Frustrated, I took a break and came back 1/2 hour later and now 2 is firing but 3 is not firing.

Am I missing something I don't understand why cylinder 2 & 3 would not fire if they are getting spark and go back and fourth(firing/not firing). The carbs seem good the bike only has 11k miles on it.

I took the carbs apart lastnight and cleaned them and I'm still having the same problem (cylinder 3 not firing). I just swaped coil 2 with 3 and cylinder 3 is still not firing so I know its not the ignition coil, and the plug is sparking on cylinder 3.

Im going in circles here I'm wondering if someone here could shed some light on the situation from a differnt point of view. Maybe I'm missing something.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I changed them when I first noticed the problem... but no help
 

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out of all the wierdest problems i have had on a bike you have the basic syndrome i had...
I went through it all as well... in the end I found out i had a bad battery (it would still crank, a little slow, but it would crank and start).... The battery had 1 bad cell dropping it 2V's.... This caused the coils not to want to "collapse" voltage correctly... i.e. wouldn't fire and as soon as it would another cylinder wouldn't....

Sorry for the long explaination...
Short answer - check the battery voltage and charging voltage.... make sure chargingvoltage is higher than battery.. battery should be 12V+ (12-13.6ish..)

at least its an easy check :bigthumbsup: (as long as you have a volt meter..)
 

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SoSick said:
I changed them when I first noticed the problem... but no help
Just got a minute, sorry. After a re-read of your first post I see you mentioned the plugs...my bad. If you can then try to heat up the Ignition Module with a blow dryer. Watch for changes as it becomes hot. Also, did you happen to do any valve adjustments recently? BBL

LG
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
thanks for the replies guys,

my battery is at voltage 12.62

I think the fuel pump is working... when I turn the key the fuel sucks out of my temp gas tank, and the fuel is getting into all of the carbs. I will go through my shop manual and see how to do an official test. but I think its ok.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
LionsGate said:
Just got a minute, sorry. After a re-read of your first post I see you mentioned the plugs...my bad. If you can then try to heat up the Ignition Module with a blow dryer. Watch for changes as it becomes hot. Also, did you happen to do any valve adjustments recently? BBL

LG
i'll give that hair dryer test a shot as well. I have not made any valve adjustments at all.
 

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SoSick said:
thanks for the replies guys,

my battery is at voltage 12.62

I think the fuel pump is working... when I turn the key the fuel sucks out of my temp gas tank, and the fuel is getting into all of the carbs. I will go through my shop manual and see how to do an official test. but I think its ok.
Make sure to check it with the engine running... if 12.62 is normal it should be at least 13.6 running... if it drops below it is a charging system or battery problem...
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Moonbaby said:
Make sure to check it with the engine running... if 12.62 is normal it should be at least 13.6 running... if it drops below it is a charging system or battery problem...
I didn't think of that going to give it a try. thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
battery is good. 12.9 when running.
 

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that ain't so good. was that at idle? bikes have a tendency not to charge real well at idle speed. it should have around 14 volts pumping into it at about 3 grand on the tach. most service manuals give an rpm for the alternator output for that particuliar bike. any backfiring at all?
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
it is at exactly 13.6 at idle and 3000rpms
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
jasonjames said:
What do the new plugs look like after engine has been run? If the cylinders are missing spark, plugs should look wet or fuel fouled. Are they white and dry?

Do you have a compression gauge?
I don't remember, I think the bad cylinder plug was a bit dry (I haven't looked at them in 2 days). Last night I ran the bike for 10 minutes and did the spray test again 3 was still cool. However, when I pulled the wire off of the ignition coil for cyl3 while it was running the engine got worse. So cylinder 3 is not completely dead when I touched the pipe3 it was very warm but not enough to evaporate the water being sprayed on it.

I don't have a compression guage. I just buttoned the bike back up and think I am going to bring it to the dealer unless someone has the magical antidote to get this thing running right. Any suggestions JJ

At this point im thinking it could be the CDI
 

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Well, To give you a head up I come from an Auto mechanic side of things... I do nto know all the specifics on bikes...
But on a car after check what you have checked I would start looking at a ignition control module, Cam Shaft Sensor, Crank position sensor next... I dunno if this helps on this bike or not but it might...

as an after thought... check the color of the spark on the plugs... see if it is more orange or blue....
 

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Either case you are getting an incomplete burn or a missfire, unfortunatly there are many things that can cause this :(

IF the plugs are really light in color and dry when you remove them, you may be lacking fuel at the affected cylinder(ie you have plenty of spark and little or no fuel). Carb idle circuits, float valves

On the other hand if the plugs are darker, wet or damp and smell like fuel then you dont have enough spark (you have enough or too much fuel or low KV) - What color is the spark ? do you have a good power supply to the coil, ect....

Hope this helps,
Jason
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Thanks for all the help fellas,

After a good cleaning of the carbs and everything else Ive done, I ran her around the neighborhood and runs fine now.
 
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