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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
pulled the bike into the shop and used the plasma cutter to knock em out. Took about an hour and a half. Told the boss it was a long lunch, he said not to worry.
Sounds effin' cool though! a lot deeper. They guys said when I rode her out that you could feel the thump in your chest like a subwoofer! :evil:
Still need to grind off the cuts smooth and re-paint flat black but it was well worth the work.
I'll try to get pics and maybe a sound bite this weekend. It's supposed to rain for the next few days so it may be monday before I can get outside again.

FYI I only cut out the back baffle and took out the center pipe, did nothing to the internal baffle yet. Sounds really good as is.
 

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ppridgen1 said:
I used a 1 and 5/16 hole saw with a 12" extension and went through the center hole in both mufflers.Drilled through both outer and inner baffles now it sounds great but not obnoxious. I get no lights and it seems to be a little less restricted :bigthumbsup: :doorag:
yeah, i did the same thing and it didn't get all that much louder. i guess it's time to pull the baffles. is the consensus to use a plasma cutter for the pipe thats angled at the end? i read all i could on the subject, but cant figure out if this pipe can be done with a hole saw.
 

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Ok guys, I'm gonna step up and show my noobishness. When you drill through the baffles with the hole saw does the disc you cut out stay on the bit so you can easily remove it? Also, what are the risks to doing this modification? Does it change how the bike runs, or is it purely for sound? How do you keep the hole saw from walking? I know it has a center drill bit to get initial bite, but I haven't paid much attention to the baffles... do they not have a hole already in the center? If so, what does the drill bit cut into? Sorry if these are dumb questions, but I'm curious because I would like to try this mod for better sound, but I'm scared I will screw something up? I hear people talking about the FI light with pipe mods. Will I need to have the bike serviced if I do this?

Thanks in advance

Mike
 

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there are no risks, just a little deeper tone. if you use a 1-5/16 hole saw there is no room for it to walk. mine did not grab the slug and there is absolutly no hint of rattling around.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·


here's the pic. cut out the very back piece and took out the back section of small pipe. The sound is awesome! Very deep not the higher pitched blapblap of straight pipes. kinda sounds like a muscle car with flowmasters. Took this pic in the process of grinding down my cut. my plasma cuts were far from perfect. Will be spraying it with high heat flat black paint shortly and it shouldn't be as noticeable.
 

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So, to do this mod, I would just need to use something like a dremel with cutting bit to cut as close to the edge of the wall and then pull it out? Did you leave the three walls that everybody is using a hole saw to cut through, or are those attached to what was pulled out? Also, I remember reading someone said they had dyno results after de-baffling their pipes, and when questioned about the results of air/fuel mix or something to that effect, the results showed the bike was running lean (or rich, can't remember). Was that you that had that issue? The reason I'm asking is because I'm contemplating either drilling holes in that wall as well as drilling out the three walls, or just removing that piece as you did.

Thanks in advance.

Mike
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
well i used a plasma cutter because it's faaaast and because i have access to one. then used a dremel to smooth out my cuts back to round as my hand wasn't as steady as it should have been. Go figure, i can draw anything but can't cut a smooth circle. All that was removed is the back plate and the small pipe that was attached to it (about 10" long) if you look in the pic further down the pipe, there is a flange that held the other end. Did not drill anything beyond that and the sound is incredible! Can't even explain how good it sounds. Still runs exactly like it did before i cut them out. Don't notice any difference.

A word of advice though. In the top pipe there is a thick bead around the perimeter that looks like a weld. That's because it is. Cut inside that. i got outside that a little and it is where the two layers of pipe are put together. Burned through the inside layer in one spot and had to fill it with JB Weld. Should hold fine but it was a stupid mistake on my part. I was lucky i didn't get into the chrome pipe.
 

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BlkM109r,

Don't feel bad. I did the same thing. I spent 4 hours tiging mine back together. It now looks like stock. Similar weld and all. PITA is what is was!!

Heed our warning, cut out the inside of the weld. Smooth it out and walk away. Any more than that and you will expose the glass. It will collect moister and probably burn out in time.
 

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i was just wandering if anyone else had this problem or it was just the 100 degree 98% humidity or if it was lean :doorag:
 

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anytime you let more air in or out, your gonna lean your bike out somewhat. the ecu can helpout with some of this, but for optimal performance you need some kind of fuel management. :bigthumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I haven't noticed any performance issues, maybe a little slugish, but I've also done the maniac mod/JSD thing so they may counteract each other. I sure haven't needed to spend $200 for the fuel manager yet.
 

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Did you have to cut the short 10"pipe or did it just slip out leaving the rest behind and if you cut it what did you use to make the cut that deep in the pipe???? :confused:
 

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If I understand the technique right, he cut the "wall" near the end of the pipe which left the skinny inner pipe you are referring to still in place. This skinny pipe is held in place by three welds. He had to use a long flathead screwdriver to pop these welds loose in order to remove that inner pipe. For others that are held in place with only two welds, people have used a long wooden dowel like a broomstick and inserted it inside the inner pipe and just manipulated it back and forth, up and down until the welds weakened and broke. Then a vice grip plier was used to grab it and remove it.
 

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Medic, i understand that is the way everybody is removing the whole baffle, however BLK109r stated that he only cut out the outer-most portion or cover plate with a plasma cutter and the 10" of pipe just after that plate while leaving the rest of the baffle intact, or at least that is the way that i read it! :eek: So i was asking if he had to cut that pipe which i assume he did but what did he cut it with as the picture is showing a pretty clean second plate as far as i am able to see.
 

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Maybe someone can post pictures of what they removed and that will help others to understand what was done. It seems that some are removing the inner pipe and others are just drilling around it. It does get confusing when you read the different post.
 

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I guess only the original poster can clarify, but I'm almost willing to bet that he used some sort of long object like a screwdriver to pop those three welds out so he could remove the inner pipe. This should still leave the 3 "walls" in place that some people are using a 1 1/4" hole saw to remove.
 
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