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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
OK, sorry if been asked a thousand times b4, but my M108 has a clutch rattle which disappears when lever pulled in and judders sometimes , is the only cure all new plates and the pin shaved down and a new clutch hub , or with rattle is it a case of bending down tabs to stop rattle .
Thanks for any info
 

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OK, sorry if been asked a thousand times b4, but my M108 has a clutch rattle which disappears when lever pulled in and judders sometimes , is the only cure all new plates and the pin shaved down and a new clutch hub , or with rattle is it a case of bending down tabs to stop rattle .
Thanks for any info
The springs under the tabs are rattling more and more because they wear down the material of the hub in front and behind the springs. Bending the tabs, installing washers e.t.c. were only temporary solutions. IMHO Suzukis new clutch hub is a bit more resistant to the wear, but the rattle is a normal part of the 9s clutch.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The springs under the tabs are rattling more and more because they wear down the material of the hub in front and behind the springs. Bending the tabs, installing washers e.t.c. were only temporary solutions. IMHO Suzukis new clutch hub is a bit more resistant to the wear, but the rattle is a normal part of the 9s clutch.
Thanks for the info
 

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The rattle is a personality trait. I don't mind it. Mine is 16 years old, soon 17. Truth is, no one has ever commented on it. All I ever get is "Beautiful bike man." I was out at Pop's on Route 66 in Arcadia Oklahoma yesterday. Lots of people commenting on it. Then rode to Seaba Station, a historical landmark and motorcycle museum. Even the Harley riders were eyeing it and saying how nice a bike it is.

PRICELESS!

Met a guy riding a C109 as well. Never seen one before. I'm amazed how different the engine cases are, considering it's supposed to be a M109 in drag. Doesn't even have the derby cover we all know and love.
 

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The rattle is a personality trait. I don't mind it. Mine is 16 years old, soon 17. Truth is, no one has ever commented on it. All I ever get is "Beautiful bike man." I was out at Pop's on Route 66 in Arcadia Oklahoma yesterday. Lots of people commenting on it. Then rode to Seaba Station, a historical landmark and motorcycle museum. Even the Harley riders were eyeing it and saying how nice a bike it is.

PRICELESS!

Met a guy riding a C109 as well. Never seen one before. I'm amazed how different the engine cases are, considering it's supposed to be a M109 in drag. Doesn't even have the derby cover we all know and love.
''M109 in drag'' , that's hilarious. 🤣
 

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So the judder is solved by replacing plates and shaving pin by how much ? Why isn't there a fix done you can buy , and replacing hub fixes rattle which I hate listening to
Clutch shudder is solved by replacing wave washer and 2 adjacent plates, from parts fish parts No 6,12, and 13, and shaving the pin so 3 surfaces are cca 3 mm wide each. The second question has been asked Suzuki numerous times with no answer.

 

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So the judder is solved by replacing plates and shaving pin by how much ? Why isn't there a fix done you can buy , and replacing hub fixes rattle which I hate listening to
Like thevili said, no fix that is known to be permanent for the rattle. Replacing the pressure plate hub won't fix it as they all work the same. One owner that I know of fixed his by changing the springs to a longer spring, but he wasn't a member on here and I don't know how long that worked or if it caused other problems. The hub is a cushion hub made of multiple plates, and the springs in it absorb the engine impulses when you are moving or decelerating. If they made it without the springs you would feel every impulse of the engine. Same reason they have springs in pressure plates or clutches on cars.

At one time folks did the "Bluey Fix", which was to bend down the tabs that hold the springs in place so they couldn't rattle. Later it was learned that the springs, being harder than the tabs, just ground metal off them and the rattle came back, plus all the metal filings ended up in the oil.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Like thevili said, no fix that is known to be permanent for the rattle. Replacing the pressure plate hub won't fix it as they all work the same. One owner that I know of fixed his by changing the springs to a longer spring, but he wasn't a member on here and I don't know how long that worked or if it caused other problems. The hub is a cushion hub made of multiple plates, and the springs in it absorb the engine impulses when you are moving or decelerating. If they made it without the springs you would feel every impulse of the engine. Same reason they have springs in pressure plates or clutches on cars.

At one time folks did the "Bluey Fix", which was to bend down the tabs that hold the springs in place so they couldn't rattle. Later it was learned that the springs, being harder than the tabs, just ground metal off them and the rattle came back, plus all the metal filings ended up in the oil.
 

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How does one see that wave washer is OK, or bad?
If it doesn't have score marks on it it's OK. The clutch would actually work without it , it's there to reduce clutch shudder. I've got an '04 Honda RC51 SP2 , Honda calls it a judder spring , the first generation [SP1] didn't have the spring and they had clutch chatter. The spring can also be added to the earlier models to alleviate the problem. The 9's problem is because of the semi dry sump motor , the clutch gets oil , but it's not an oil bath like most wet clutches. Dry clutch Ducati's have the same problem when the clutch gets hot , like in traffic. They also put one called a ''Clutch Tamer'' in Harleys for the same issue.
 

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This is my experience with a M109R clutch, slippage and noise, mines a 2013 with 31'00kms on it, no wear on plates at all.
I initially thought clutch cable was stretched as clutch was slipping, adjusted it and ok for a while, made further adjustment and consulted manual. Nothing in manual in main section regarding adjustment of clutch, of course its in the very back as a bulletin. almost last page.
So I thought lets go hydraulic clutch, even though the hydraulic guys helped lots they didn't know anything about adjustment and spring replacement which is why I was having so many problems setting up hyd clutch.

Don't do anything until you buy new clutch springs.

(If it's not a drag bike just replace springs) don't waste your money on plates.

Back off the clutch cable and remove it or just back it off if adjusting clutch push rod on clutch side. if you don't it will move and cause problems to other side as the push rod moves.

Don't put in hyd kit yet.

Now for New springs, remove exhaust and clutch cover. Remove and replace springs, spring bolts, make sure there tight. see my pics as the springs in mine where compressed by 12mm and lose causing slip.

In the centre of the clutch is the push rod for adjustment, has lock nuts and centre adjuster, back it off until you get about 0.1mm play. That's just enough to feel it's got the tiniest amount of play.
it will be back and forth on adjustment so be prepared.

Don't put clutch cover back on yet, further adjustment needed if like me.

Go to other side.

Clutch hook lever should have about 8mm of down play.. if not go back to clutch pack push rod and adjust. about 1/2 a turn.
Now to install hyd clutch system..


Note!!!!!!!!

The piston on hyd cylinder has to be at top of stroke to work properly Or you will have no end of drama. (lever will not pull all the way into handlebar and stay there, it will move away from handle bar and not disengage clutch properly.

The clutch will bleed ok and it will all work great, for a while, then progressively move away from handlebar and lock up. Then the clutch is way out of adjustment.

Do not fill fluid in any hose until piston is at top of stroke and kit fully installed.

The piston end has two different lengths of thread from my experience. One 10mm and one about 15mm.


Install "T" piece, Twist piston onto the "T" piece with locknut all the way in for now.

You can't tell if it needs adjustment yet.

Fit off all brackets etc

Fill with brake fluid, glycol based.

Bleed it.

Once bled the hyd clutch lever will pull all the way into the handle bar and repeat with no creep away from handle bar. (will only happen if piston is not at top of stroke)

Adjustment.

Now push down on top of clutch lever hook where "T" piece is installed. There should be 1mm of play approx, enough to know its released fully.

If not enough play, the clutch pack is not released and partially engaged you'll get Slippage. go to push rod on clutch pack side and adjust 1/2 turn to loosen off. it feels like a the slightest amount of play. when the bike is hot you may get expansion in metal and need to adjust again like I did. 1/4 turn.

if you have the correct amount of play on the push rod and the clutch lever on left side of bike is not showing a 1mm of play when disengaged then undo or lengthen the pushrod 1mm to get that little bit of play to show clutch pressure is disengaged.

Check play again.

If it's about 1mm great..

Now you have a small amount of play in lever where "T" piece is and the clutch will be fully released.


Clutch will pick up about 20mm or so from handlebar. Use 1 to 4 selector to choose your position. How big your hands are will decide where the lever is going to end up.


If you don't do above shit will happen.

1. Piston gets bent.

2.clutch lever moves away from handlebar and locks up.

3. Won't work properly. No matter what.

4. Won't release clutch pack and it slips.

5. You'll get really pissed off


Just my experience in putting in HYD kit, clutch adjustment.

The above may help more people have less problems.

Sometimes it not just swap out a cable.

As I found out..

Finger Gesture Wood Thumb Nail

Automotive tire Motor vehicle Gear Bicycle part Rim

Automotive tire Wood Tread Automotive wheel system Auto part

Font Motor vehicle Auto part Drawing Art

Motor vehicle Automotive fuel system Gas Nut Automotive tire

Automotive tire Wheel Alloy wheel Vehicle brake Tire

Automotive fuel system Motor vehicle Auto part Automotive exterior Rim

Mammal Font Electric blue Photo caption Brand
 

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The springs under the tabs are rattling more and more because they wear down the material of the hub in front and behind the springs. Bending the tabs, installing washers e.t.c. were only temporary solutions. IMHO Suzukis new clutch hub is a bit more resistant to the wear, but the rattle is a normal part of the 9s clutch.
Unfortunately, I heard that rattle upclose and personal Friday. Oh, what a terrible sound when it's completely worn out. My clutch is toast. A new clutch hub and plates and probably more will be in my future. It's a 16 year old M109R, so it was bound to happen.
 

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With 39,500 miles on my 06, it does rattle. It's not loud as of yet. And the rattle goes away when the clutch lever is pulled.
 
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