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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Need help/thoughts on how to address - I glazed/fried my clutch at 11k back in June this year at the track, replaced it with a complete stock clutch pack (fiber and steel plates, new springs). I had trouble getting the new clutch adjusted and went ahead and took it into the dealer Advantage Power Sports (APS) KCMO and asked them to adjust it. They broke it all the way back down and adjusted the pull rod, said I had it in about a ¼ to ½ a turn to much on it. Clutch felt better but still felt like it wasn't turning loose all the way. I rode it for about a week I asked the dealer to take another look - they said it was fine. I still didn't agree but they're supposed to be the ones that now. I left on a trip to Vegas and my oil light came on about 90 miles out of Pueblo, CO so I had to spend the night as we got in after shop hours. The tech at Rocky Mountain Cycle asked if I had the clutch adjusted to slip because I was pulling a trailer - he said he'd seen this done with other bikes that have a lot of torque so they don't tear up their trailers. I told him no and told him about my APS and their comments. He said that there is definitely slippage and that I should take it back to the dealer that adjusted it and have them take another look - told me there was a bulletin out on the clutch adjustment and to make sure that APS had this bulletin.

I took it back to the dealer when we got back from LV (4,800 + miles on this clutch at this point) Service manager rode my bike and said that there was nothing wrong with it - I told him what the tech in Pueblo said and he didn't care, said he'd been riding bikes since he was 5 years old and has been racing for the last 5 years (he's all of maybe 25 years old - and doesn't wrench his own bike). I told him he didn't know chit from shinola, and he didn't have a clue what the :edit: he was talking about, they didn't even have the latest update for adjusting the clutch issued in March 2007 - I guess I was pretty loud:cus:, the GM came over and asked what was going on, told him and he took it for a ride. He came back and agreed that there was slippage and agreed to go through it again. They had the bike for a full week, got it back, better but still not right. Both the lever and the cable adjustment under the secondary gear cover were adjusted all the way in/up - nothing left. When I get on it in any gear the clutch lever pulls its self out of my finger tips up hard/tight to the lever bracket, no play what-so-ever - any pull or pressure back on the lever and it slips completely, when it's not under a strain there is play. Clutch swing arm play appears to be within tolerances.

Talked with parts manager yesterday about it, he thinks that I should go a head and change out the clutch again - if it was/is slipping I may have glazed or fried this clutch too. I'm thinking he's probably right, this clutch now has apx 7k miles on it and more than likely is glazed but I think that there still might be another issue as well as an incorrect adjustment of the pull rod.

I've got 2" extensions and +3" Barnett SS Cables - is it possible that the Barnett cables are too short? Not sure that this wasn't an issue from the get go as the cables were new in May this year, could have been working the plates from the day I installed them:dontknow:. Does anyone know what the length or actual measurement should be from sleeve to sleeve on +3" cables? If I find that they are short, could the cable sleeve under the secondary gear cover be cut back a ½" or more to allow for more cable adjustment - there's plenty of sleeve to be able to cut it back.

I'm old school and rode back in the day where you used to have to push the clutch lever out to make sure your clutch released all the way. I've never had a clutch lever pull out of my finger tips before:dontknow:

Sorry for the long read but was trying to get in all the facts.


Thanks for any help.
 

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The new B-cables is slight short, but still have room for adjustment, providing the clutch pushrod is adjusted correctly
also check the lower cable adjustment and back it off there if it has room
check the clutch lever to see if they may have clocked it wrong. there is an alignment dimple and line that should be matched up

if all that checked out good then adjust the clutch pushrod by backing it off a half turn at a time until you get 12-15 mm clutch lever free play

7,000 miles on a slipping clutch can't be good on the clutch plates and engine oil


do the adjustments before you go investing more money
 

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I have 2" risers on Bikergranny's bike, and +3 cables. 15k on hers, and runs great. Sounds to me like the dealer doesn't know what they are doing to be honest. I have done about 10-12 M109 clutches, and it really is not complicated at all.

The bulletin on how to adjust the pushrod is on my clutch page towards the botton in pdf format.

http://bigpapam109.com/clutch.htm

Sounds to me like they didn't have that adjusted right, and the cable was so tight that under any hard acceleration it was trying to release the clutch causing it to fry.

They should change out all the fiber plates and the steels as well. The barnett is tight to adjust but I have it so Mary's has 5 or 6 quarters worth up top.
 

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I have 2" risers on Bikergranny's bike, and +3 cables. 15k on hers, and runs great.....
Same here... 2" risers and +3 cables. No problems at all.
.....Sounds to me like they didn't have that adjusted right, and the cable was so tight that under any hard acceleration it was trying to release the clutch causing it to fry.

They should change out all the fiber plates and the steels as well. The barnett is tight to adjust but I have it so Mary's has 5 or 6 quarters worth up top.
:agree:​
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
The new B-cables is slight short, but still have room for adjustment, providing the clutch pushrod is adjusted correctly
also check the lower cable adjustment and back it off there if it has room
check the clutch lever to see if they may have clocked it wrong. there is an alignment dimple and line that should be matched up

if all that checked out good then adjust the clutch pushrod by backing it off a half turn at a time until you get 12-15 mm clutch lever free play

7,000 miles on a slipping clutch can't be good on the clutch plates and engine oil

do the adjustments before you go investing more money
Clutch lever is located correctly - I'm leaning towards incorrect push rod adjustment as well as replacing the clutch pack again, gotta believe it's at the very least glazed. Oil was changed at 35 miles when dealer adjusted, 1,200 at dealer in Pueblo when they where looking for oil light issue, dealer here in KC changed it again when I got back from LV which was at 4,990 miles so I'm up to apx 2,138 +/- since my last oil change, pretty anal about changing oil and filter every 3,000 miles.

This has been discussed to death. Cable routing can effect the amount of adjustment available. Check that and I def would change oil and filter. Good luck :bigthumbsup:
Cable is routed correctly - I did note your posting on your clutch issue but felt that changing out the clutch pack not just the cable would have more bearing on my issue since there appears to be a couple of different documented ways to adjust the push-rod.......... any where from backing it off until you don't feel any friction to backing it off until it hits the clutch cover and then run it in a full turn and lock it down (Goin with BigPapa's post this round). I'm still not sold that the cable is the correct length - the bottom sleeve is almost too long to fit between the frame the the mounting bracket, very tight fit - just doesn't seam right.

I have 2" risers on Bikergranny's bike, and +3 cables. 15k on hers, and runs great. Sounds to me like the dealer doesn't know what they are doing to be honest. I have done about 10-12 M109 clutches, and it really is not complicated at all.

The bulletin on how to adjust the pushrod is on my clutch page towards the botton in pdf format.

http://bigpapam109.com/clutch.htm (Printed out)

Sounds to me like they didn't have that adjusted right, and the cable was so tight that under any hard acceleration it was trying to release the clutch causing it to fry.DING DING DING DING DING

They should change out all the fiber plates and the steels as well. The barnett is tight to adjust but I have it so Mary's has 5 or 6 quarters worth up top.
Agreed - Dealer has a new service manager since my run in with him, not just due to my issue but several - still the same techs though? Planning on doing the work myself as the GM is now saying that there's nothing more they can do - I believe that I've picked up enough info from all of you to help, I've been wrenching my own bikes and cars for over 35 years. I don't have any hesitation in breaking her down and building her back up - I only took it to the dealer to adjust because I didn't have or know about the bulletin on adjusting the push-rod - can't help thinking that there is still something wrong with the cable though.

Dealer doesn't keep anything in stock for the 9' so I've placed orders for new clutch pack as well as crush washers, clutch cover gasket and a few other change out parts that I'll need for winter mods - going to go ahead and change out the cable too, hang onto this one for a spare for just in case. Thank you all for the comments
 

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Can't remember if it says it in the manual, but I always undo the clutch cable on the bottom before doing the adjustment for the push rod.
 
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