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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 2008 M109R and thought I had been experiencing some occasional shudder taking off in 1st gear. I just loctited the tube nut and ground the push pin and reassembled the clutch with the original plates as they had about 12K miles on them and showed no indication of heat stress or wear. I left the push pin at the same adjustment it was when I pulled it out. I did not touch the clutch lever adjustment either during disassembly or reassembly. In squeezing the clutch lever, there is nothing there-no resistance to the pull at all. I'm looking for some guidance here as I thought as long as I did not install new plates the prior clutch adjustment settings would be fine. before I tear things apart I'd figure I'd canvass the experts here.
 

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Behind the clutch push pin there is a small metal ball. Did that happen to fall out when you removed the push pin? If it's not in there the pin won't move enough to disengage the clutch plates, so it will act as yours is doing.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Behind the clutch push pin there is a small metal ball. Did that happen to fall out when you removed the push pin? If it's not in there the pin won't move enough to disengage the clutch plates, so it will act as yours is doing.
Just for clarification, I looked at the parts schematic on Partzilla's site and the ball you refer to is behind the longer "clutch rod" (which I didn't remove) not the clutch push pin which I pulled and ground the 3 flats on. At least that is what the schematic shows. I am concerned however that if this ball fell out and down into the lower regions of the engine what it would do. I'm wondering what would be the proper course of action to find it (magnet, drain oil, etc.)?
Thanks for your insight.
 

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I have a 2008 M109R and thought I had been experiencing some occasional shudder taking off in 1st gear. I just loctited the tube nut and ground the push pin and reassembled the clutch with the original plates as they had about 12K miles on them and showed no indication of heat stress or wear. I left the push pin at the same adjustment it was when I pulled it out. I did not touch the clutch lever adjustment either during disassembly or reassembly. In squeezing the clutch lever, there is nothing there-no resistance to the pull at all. I'm looking for some guidance here as I thought as long as I did not install new plates the prior clutch adjustment settings would be fine. before I tear things apart I'd figure I'd canvass the experts here.
I would doublecheck the clutchplates positions very carefully. If one of
them is rotated just off the proper position, it will cause your problem...
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I would doublecheck the clutchplates positions very carefully. If one of
them is rotated just off the proper position, it will cause your problem...
They are in the right order, do you mean there is a special alignment when placing in the hub (I thought that wasn't the case, but I could be wrong)?
 

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They are in the right order, do you mean there is a special alignment when placing in the hub (I thought that wasn't the case, but I could be wrong)?
Yes, it was that way in my case, few years ago, so I do not remember
all the details, but it was a simple mistake and same result as you desribed.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Yes, it was that way in my case, few years ago, so I do not remember
all the details, but it was a simple mistake and same result as you desribed.
I think you are on to something, now I need to see the correct "position" for each plate. Haven't found that in the service manual or on line yet...
 

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Look on page 3-97 in the service manual, that shows the clutch push pin and ball I'm talking about. The ball can't fall inside the engine so no worries there.

They call it the push rod, and that is the part that the flats get ground on. This allows more oil to get around it and to the clutch plates. If you ground something other than this part (#11 on the diagram) what part did you grind?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Look on page 3-97 in the service manual, that shows the clutch push pin and ball I'm talking about. The ball can't fall inside the engine so no worries there.

They call it the push rod, and that is the part that the flats get ground on. This allows more oil to get around it and to the clutch plates. If you ground something other than this part (#11 on the diagram) what part did you grind?
I believe you are incorrect. The push rod #11 does not get ground, the "push" piece, #12 does. As shown below....this what I ground.

 

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Discussion Starter #10
I believe you are incorrect. The push rod #11 does not get ground, the "push" piece, #12 does. As shown below....this what I ground.

Mystery solved-wave washer was in backwards. Works fine now. Thanks to all who chimed in.
 

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And you sir, are correct. It's been at least 8 years since I did mine and just forgot which piece. It used to be a common topic on here. :redfaced:

Glad you found the problem. I started to ask which way you oriented the wave washer but thought you had probably laid it out the way it was removed, as you did the clutch plates. But honestly I never heard of anyone not having any clutch action with the washer installed wrong. Maybe it's one of those things that haven't happened on here before.
 
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