M109 Rider Forums banner
21 - 27 of 27 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
Discussion Starter · #21 ·
Thanks for the reply BCS.. I'm glad you mentioned still having the nut and the basket, as that made me remember I have one too. Years ago when the clutch shudder problem first surfaced some Suzuki dealers were replacing the clutch baskets under warranty, and I bought one of the replaced units from a member on here. It would still have the nut in it too. I might see if I can find that and either try making a better nut, or a better tool to remove it. I'm OK at grinding and cutting on things but I'm far from a machinist.
I made the tool as shown in the picture. But the nut is in perfect condition was not affected at all
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,510 Posts
Well :poop:, that clutch went full on yard sale, didn't it. :oops:

Harris (bigpapaXCT) already gave the low down of what to look for and where to get the clutch.
I attached the link for the clutch from Oneida for you below.
Getting all that material cleaned out before you put it back together is going to be top priority for sure.

Harris owns a motorcycle repair shop in Maryland and is up to his eyeballs everyday in 109's. If you find you want to farm the job out, he is your go to guy in that area.

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,510 Posts
Probably a way off the wall request, but its gonna bug me if I don't ask. (That little voice in my head is tapping at the back of my eyeballs)
Will the bike roll when in gear now that the entire clutch is removed?
If you have not drained the oil don't tip the bike up to much when you try or its gonna get messy on your garage floor. :)

BCS
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
Discussion Starter · #24 ·
Probably a way off the wall request, but its gonna bug me if I don't ask. (That little voice in my head is tapping at the back of my eyeballs)
Will the bike roll when in gear now that the entire clutch is removed?
If you have not drained the oil don't tip the bike up to much when you try or its gonna get messy on your garage floor. :)

BCS
Hey man thanks for the help. I got it up and running. Sounds perfect runs perfect. It sounds a bit louder than normal when shifting gears but i think that can be adjusted on the clutch (right?)
419671
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,510 Posts
Glad you got it going.
Clutch adjustment hopefully started while the clutch cover was still off.

The way I do it is to disconnect the cable completely from bike.
Slack the push pin adjustment before installing the pressure plate onto the clutch.
Then adjust the push pin until it mates against the back of the pressure plate.
Then slack the push pin adjustment 3/4 to 1 turn and lock it down.
Then reinstall the cable, take all the adjustment out of the adjustment screw at the lever.
Then make all your adjustment at the lower end near the arm, using the two 12 mm nuts.
At this point your clutch adjustment should be 99% complete.
You can use the adjustment screw on the lever for any fine adjustment that may be needed. (assuming you did not get it too tight to start with, if you did slack a bit from the bottom end)

The way I have been determining if my clutch is adjusted properly is to start the bike and put it in 1st gear, then slack the adjustment until the bike will just start to try and roll forward when the clutch lever is pulled in. Then add adjustment just to where the bike no longer tries to roll forward in gear with the lever pulled.
You should be about perfect at that point.

Remember not to have the clutch adjustment too tight or the cable will eventually break......and it always happens at the worst possible moment.

BCS
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
Discussion Starter · #26 ·
Glad you got it going.
Clutch adjustment hopefully started while the clutch cover was still off.

The way I do it is to disconnect the cable completely from bike.
Slack the push pin adjustment before installing the pressure plate onto the clutch.
Then adjust the push pin until it mates against the back of the pressure plate.
Then slack the push pin adjustment 3/4 to 1 turn and lock it down.
Then reinstall the cable, take all the adjustment out of the adjustment screw at the lever.
Then make all your adjustment at the lower end near the arm, using the two 12 mm nuts.
At this point your clutch adjustment should be 99% complete.
You can use the adjustment screw on the lever for any fine adjustment that may be needed. (assuming you did not get it too tight to start with, if you did slack a bit from the bottom end)

The way I have been determining if my clutch is adjusted properly is to start the bike and put it in 1st gear, then slack the adjustment until the bike will just start to try and roll forward when the clutch lever is pulled in. Then add adjustment just the point where the bike no longer tries to roll forward in gear with the lever pulled.
You should be about perfect at that point.

Remember not to have the clutch adjustment too tight or the cable will eventually break......and it always happens at the worst possible moment.

BCS
Lol didnt know the way of adjusting with the clutch cover off
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,510 Posts
Lol didnt know the way of adjusting with the clutch cover off
Any time you have the clutch apart its a good idea to slack the push before installing the pressure plate.
Once the pressure plate is installed and torqued properly, then begin the clutch adjustment process from the push pin up.
Once the push pin and cable are adjusted you can then visually see the stack movement and test the clutch is engaging/disengaging by rolling the bike in gear.
Of course you have to put the clutch cover and exhaust back on before you can start the bike and make the final fine adjustment as I described above.

(If you drained the oil, be sure to put oil back in the bike before starting it).......(Added this last line for the benefit of anyone reading this in the future, its easy to overlook the obvious sometimes) :)

BCS
 
21 - 27 of 27 Posts
Top