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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
wanting to find complete clutch pack [metal and fiber plates ] as a kit does any one make this as a unit and what site
 

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No complete kits. Gotta buy the parts you want. If you buy all the parts, you will have a kit though : )
I would stick with stock, works just fine.
 

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clutch

I have a bud looking for one also could u plz. pm me ?thnx, and good luck:doorag:
 

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Clutch parts name & part Number
4. 21413-48G00 SPRING, CLUTCH 6

5. 21441-48G00 PLATE, CLUTCH DRIVE NO.1

6. 21441-48G10 PLATE, CLUTCH DRIVE NO.2

7. 21441-48G20 PLATE, CLUTCH DRIVE NO.3

8. 21441-48G30 PLATE, CLUTCH DRIVE NO.4

9. 21451-48G00 PLATE, CLUTCH DRIVEN NO.1

10. 21451-48G10 PLATE, CLUTCH DRIVEN NO.2

12. 21471-48G00 SEAT, WAVE WASHER 1 109X124X1.6

13. 21472-48G00 WASHER, CLUTCH PLATE 1

 

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Does anyone have any experience or knowledge of the quality and durability of the Cycle House Clutch Kit that DLP sells? I read the couple of reviews that were posted with the item, and both of them really praised the quality and performace of that Cycle House Clutch Kit when used in conjunction with the Heavy Duty Springs that are also sold by DLP.

Please reply as soon as possible. One of my riding buddies needs some really bad, and we want to make sure he gets a quality set of clutches and springs.

Thanks.

BCRUZN
 

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I wouldn't buy Cycle House again! mine only got 3,000 miles on them. Plus they slipped alot! Go with stock, you won't go wrong! Ask Bigpapa about the clutch..he knows it front to back!
 

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I just rebuilt mine a few months ago. I stayed with the stock pieces, just upgraded the #2 drive plate and wave washer. I did switch out the springs though, went with the MTC springs. Clutch is very smooth.

My opinion, stick with the stock plates. :bigthumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Clutch parts name & part Number
4. 21413-48G00 SPRING, CLUTCH 6

5. 21441-48G00 PLATE, CLUTCH DRIVE NO.1

6. 21441-48G10 PLATE, CLUTCH DRIVE NO.2

7. 21441-48G20 PLATE, CLUTCH DRIVE NO.3

8. 21441-48G30 PLATE, CLUTCH DRIVE NO.4

9. 21451-48G00 PLATE, CLUTCH DRIVEN NO.1

10. 21451-48G10 PLATE, CLUTCH DRIVEN NO.2

12. 21471-48G00 SEAT, WAVE WASHER 1 109X124X1.6

13. 21472-48G00 WASHER, CLUTCH PLATE 1

thanks for the info , now how about clutch cover gasket # and do you think barnet springs are ok if not what and where can i get them
 

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which springs did you use and where did you get them any part # would help also thanks
personally... I will stay with all stock when comes to the clutch other than cable
I know we all for the most part have had some clutch issue. But there have not been any aftermarket clutch parts for the M109R that done conclusively better than stock
 

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Does anyone have any experience or knowledge of the quality and durability of the Cycle House Clutch Kit that DLP sells? I read the couple of reviews that were posted with the item, and both of them really praised the quality and performace of that Cycle House Clutch Kit when used in conjunction with the Heavy Duty Springs that are also sold by DLP.

Please reply as soon as possible. One of my riding buddies needs some really bad, and we want to make sure he gets a quality set of clutches and springs.

Thanks.

BCRUZN
Here is my story and I am sticking too it.

1) I switched over to the cycle house clutch and it worked awesome for 3k miles. Grabby, felt great and then all of a sudden the most horrible clutch shudder I have ever felt. My bike had 16k shudder free miles on the stock clutch. I then put a new stock clutch in and have since ridden 16k shudder free miles.

2) A user on here begged for a mechanic to come fix his bike that a harley mechanic butchered. Rynosback and I went and basically spent about 12 hours fixing this guys bike. The mechanic had put a new cycle house clutch in with mtc springs. Figuring that since the pipes were off, and seeing this guys work, I decided to pull the clutch to make sure he did it right. He did not had some stuff backwards :doh: They had never even fired the bike up at that point with the new clutch. So, I knew it was in right and after the bike was done, I test rode it and it felt good. The next day Greg called me and told me he went 4 miles and the clutch is now dead. He towed it back and I went over and took a look at it. The outer most fiber/steel plate had me confused. It simply looked like a steel plate as if there was no fiber. It isn't like it burned the clutch up at all as there was no signs of that. The actual fiber completely came right off the steel. That then caused it to ruin the rest. He went and got all stock and the bike is running great.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
springs

Here is my story and I am sticking too it.

1) I switched over to the cycle house clutch and it worked awesome for 3k miles. Grabby, felt great and then all of a sudden the most horrible clutch shudder I have ever felt. My bike had 16k shudder free miles on the stock clutch. I then put a new stock clutch in and have since ridden 16k shudder free miles.

2) A user on here begged for a mechanic to come fix his bike that a harley mechanic butchered. Rynosback and I went and basically spent about 12 hours fixing this guys bike. The mechanic had put a new cycle house clutch in with mtc springs. Figuring that since the pipes were off, and seeing this guys work, I decided to pull the clutch to make sure he did it right. He did not had some stuff backwards :doh: They had never even fired the bike up at that point with the new clutch. So, I knew it was in right and after the bike was done, I test rode it and it felt good. The next day Greg called me and told me he went 4 miles and the clutch is now dead. He towed it back and I went over and took a look at it. The outer most fiber/steel plate had me confused. It simply looked like a steel plate as if there was no fiber. It isn't like it burned the clutch up at all as there was no signs of that. The actual fiber completely came right off the steel. That then caused it to ruin the rest. He went and got all stock and the bike is running great.
some people are saying that you have to buy the complete clutch hub can you just change springs or buy the whole hub ,what are the best springs stock or stiffer aftermarket, if so which ones and part numbers thanks
 

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some people are saying that you have to buy the complete clutch hub can you just change springs or buy the whole hub ,what are the best springs stock or stiffer aftermarket, if so which ones and part numbers thanks
The hub itself has springs in it. Usually when people say to buy one of those is due to the vibration issues between 3-4k rpm's. Some have tried the "Bluey Fix", as I did. Eventually mine got worse. If you don't have a vibration, that is not one of the parts that needs to be changed. The springs are basically with the pressure plate at the end of the clutch stack. The springs are what gives you the tension. Many have gone with the mtc spring for more pressure. I had them and got rid of them when I went back to stock.

Here is my advice on the whole clutch thing. If you are not racing this bike, put back in the stock clutch setup. Think about it, guys are taking Hyabusa's and running 150 nine second passes on a stock clutch. There is no way you will burn up this clutch on the street, or prematurely wear it unless you don't have it adjusted right.
 

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The hub itself has springs in it. Usually when people say to buy one of those is due to the vibration issues between 3-4k rpm's. Some have tried the "Bluey Fix", as I did. Eventually mine got worse. If you don't have a vibration, that is not one of the parts that needs to be changed. The springs are basically with the pressure plate at the end of the clutch stack. The springs are what gives you the tension. Many have gone with the mtc spring for more pressure. I had them and got rid of them when I went back to stock.

Here is my advice on the whole clutch thing. If you are not racing this bike, put back in the stock clutch setup. Think about it, guys are taking Hyabusa's and running 150 nine second passes on a stock clutch. There is no way you will burn up this clutch on the street, or prematurely wear it unless you don't have it adjusted right.
totally agree with this statement
very few aftermarket parts are as good or better than OEM
especially when come to internal parts
there are some that work better than the OEM, but those are almost always racing parts. Things design for racing can cause some serious damage to your engine, rear-end and transmission, just to name a few
if they are not calibrated and tested properly

never-the-less, it is a personal preference
 

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No complete kits. Gotta buy the parts you want. If you buy all the parts, you will have a kit though : )
I would stick with stock, works just fine.
:agree: I know some of the after market ones have had some issues with them.
 

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Does anyone have any experience or knowledge of the quality and durability of the Cycle House Clutch Kit that DLP sells? I read the couple of reviews that were posted with the item, and both of them really praised the quality and performace of that Cycle House Clutch Kit when used in conjunction with the Heavy Duty Springs that are also sold by DLP....
My Cycle House Clutch and MTC springs have been working fine since March 2009. Not sure how many miles that makes... definitely over 10K.
 

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Where do plates 7 and 8 fit

Plates 7 and 8 in the diagram, where do they fit or do they replace some other plates. Are they extra plates to increase pressure and stop slippage, if so where should they be installed, between which plates.

Thank You
 

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Those plates are not extra. They are the same as #6.
All three are different widths. You only install one of the three. Which one you choose depends on your overall clutch stack width. You choose the one that gives you the correct overall stack width.
If you are using stock clutch parts. Likely # 6 is your best bet. You could measure them to be sure.
If you use aftermarket clutch parts. I would certainly measure the stack width and choose the right one. Otherwise there is a pretty good chance you could burn the new clutch out, or it might not work correctly.
Here's the problem. Try to find someone that knows what the overall clutch stack width is supposed to be.... I don't know or I would tell you.
My dealer knew, and gave me the right one a while back, but he's not there anymore.
Good luck.
 
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