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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I performed the clutch cable re-rout today that many members here have recommended, and now the clutch cable tightens up under acceleration. This happens even in nutural.. pull the lever in to max freeplay, rev it a bit and the lever pops all the way out. This had not happened before the re-rout, or at least not to this degree.
I closely inspected everything and all is as it should be with the cable and adjustments.
The cable is being pulled from inside the transmission when the motor is reved up.
Since the re-rout the clutch does pull a little easier. Maybe the cable was binding a little bit behind the motor mount (Can see chafing on the cable) and made this less noticable.
Been riding all my life and have had at least 25 street bikes, never seen anything like this before. :dontknow:
Has anybody had this problem with their 9 and know whats causing it?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
hedgetrimmer said:
I haven't Re-routed my clutch cable but it does move under normal riding conditions.
:eek:
Is there a reason for moving the cable? ::)
From what I understand members have been breaking clutch cables prematurely due to the cable being routed behind the motor mount.. I actually could see the wear on the cable in that location and have under 2k on the bike.
Sounded like a smart idea to re-rout it but now I can actually feel the lever pull away from my fingers when going through the gears.

If you do a search here you will find many threads on the re-rout and instructions.
I would hate to break a cable far from home and have to ride clutchless or even try to push this monster up the ramp into the pickup truck to get it home. Was thinking this would be a nice preventive measure but not so sure now.
 

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I asked the Suzuki re that owns 2 of the M109 and he said they all move, even mine does because of the torque to the engine
 

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I know for sure that it is normal for some of the slack in the cable to be taken up under acceleration; all our bikes should do that. I'm not sure if mine will do it in neutral; that doesn't sound right to me :dontknow:
 

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it's going to sound stupid but it just happened to me. i rerouted the clutch cable and in doing so i adjusted the cable on top and ended up pulling the boot so hard over the handle that it was getting pulled with the handle like a rubber band. it freaked me out when it happened and took me a while to figure out what was going on. oil up the boot so it doesn't drag, worked for me.
 

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I recently did the re-route also and luckily the rubber wasn't worn all the way through like some other members on here. I've read that it helped a lot to reduce the amount of movement the lever has under acceleration but I can't tell if it made mine better or worse. It still moves and it doesn't feel much smoother either as some have also claimed. Did you notice the movement under acceleration before you did the re-route too?
 

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:dontknow: Have heard some claim that as the motor mounts wear, it gets worse, but doesn't make sense to me. I've experienced this 'tightening' under load with stock cables, and now my barnett cables too. Both were re-routed, so nothin's binding, anywhere. It's gotta be somthin' to do with our clutch, but can't figure what. I've also done the 'bluey' fix, but made no difference with this tightening under load. Was careful to get 'noodle' at tranny away from rubbing on frame too.
:doorag: My suggestion, deal with it, by keeping enough freeplay at lever,(the usual 2 quarters thickness), to minimize load tightening from possibly causing clutch to slip. JMO RRH
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
EZRider723 said:
Did you notice the movement under acceleration before you did the re-route too?
Not at all, I always keep a couple of fingers on the clutch lever when going through the gears. After the re-rout the wife and I went out for a spin and when shifting through the gears the lever actually pulled away from my fingers.. cant miss it.
I can keep it adjusted with more play, but not sure how I'm going to feel about running with a sloppy lever and having it pull my fingers too. I'll have to take the bike back out today and see if its something I can live with. :-\
 

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lovethetwins said:
it's going to sound stupid but it just happened to me. i rerouted the clutch cable and in doing so i adjusted the cable on top and ended up pulling the boot so hard over the handle that it was getting pulled with the handle like a rubber band. it freaked me out when it happened and took me a while to figure out what was going on. oil up the boot so it doesn't drag, worked for me.
:agree:
 

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Need to keep the play in your clutch lever. Otherwise it will be stretching your cable when accelerating and soon it will break ;) ;)
 

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BigPapa, I'll check to see if maybe my cable shifted a bit but otherwise I followed everyone else's advice of detaching it and snaking it through from the bottom up. I then re-routed it outside the engine mount along the frame and then just snaked it back down where it was under all the chrome covers, hooked the cable back in and then rattached the bracket. I mean, it doesn't bother me that much to completely redo it but I was just making a comment earlier how the movement didn't change much for me. I hope everything works out for gtorockz though!
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Thanks EZRider.. took the bike out today and guess I can live with it like it is, Makes me wonder if I had been burning the clutch all this time under normal lever adjustment. Glad I realized the 9 was doing this early. This may be why so many bikes have been in for clutches before their time.

I think that owning a 9 is like dating a beautiful woman that has a history of cheating.. love being with her, but always wondering when she'll break your heart. ;)
 

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Every suzuki I have owned does this with the cable, but with the M109R, it is more severe. I don't believe it has anything to do with the engine torquing and pulling on the cable. I do believe the the cable is too short for the run to the clutch lever and that the cable is being pulled by the clutch under load. Suzuki mis-engineered the clutch cable, and as a result has asked all suzuki dealers to leave no less than 15 mm of freeplay at the clutch lever end.

-RT
 

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I've felt mine do this on most rides. Depends on my mood, somtimes I ride with two fingers on the clutch and sometimes just cruise and only grab as needed. Whenever I keep my fingers on the clutch lever for awhile I'll catch that feeling of it pulling tighter. I'll look into lubing up that boot to see if that helps at all but I truly assumed it to be normal.

I'm going with no worries for the moment.
 

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BobbyMac said:
I know for sure that it is normal for some of the slack in the cable to be taken up under acceleration; all our bikes should do that. I'm not sure if mine will do it in neutral; that doesn't sound right to me :dontknow:
:agree: The cable should move some while under acceleration; but I do not think that should be the case in neutral. Should not move at all.
 

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It is the routing of the clutch cable,

I have the 3 inch longer Barnett cable, run outside the covers all the way down. No pull on the lever while accelerating. put it back to the stock routing and it pulls again.

Jazz
 

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Jazzster, did you get the longer cable just to fix this problem or did you need them for taller risers? When you say its outside the chrome covers, you're saying you can actually see the cable running near the bottom when the covers are reinstalled? It doesn't seem like the stock cable is long enough to be run outside.
 

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I got the +3 Barnett cable and stock risers. The stock cable is too short no matter how it is routed. I understand that the engine moves a little bit under load, the cable should be long enough and routed in such a way that the movement doesn't prohibit you from properly adjusting the lever.

Running the longer cable completlely outside the bodywork results in SMOOTH operation with no pull on the lever. Doesn't look great, but it works great.

adding slop to the clutch only hides other problems, it's not a sollution.

Jazz
 
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