it's a programmable flasher relay replacement that also has a built in load equalizer that does just what you need. it's 40 bones. i've got one of these, but i haven't had time to put it on yet.
OK will do but as they are flashers they should not run as hot hopefullyjerbear said:Aussie,
The chrome covered incandescent globes were the ones that overheated on mine and melted taking part of the lens with them.
That's why I went to leds (much cooler) to solve the problem.Â Keep an eye on yours and let me know if you have better luck with the covered incandescentsÂ than I did.
There is no such thing as a "4 watt resistor". Resistance is measured in ohms, not watts.bob109 said:Just some thoughts on "load equalizers"....
Remedy: Place a in-line resistor of 4 WATTS value into you circut. In addition to the 1 WATT LED, you have returned the circut load to 5 WATTS. Your signal flasher act accordingly to the 5 WATT load and flashes normally.
You are absolutely right I erred and removed that post. Been twenty nine years since I had my basic electronics class....guess I'm loosing it a little. If you decrease the ohm load by using LED lights you have to make up for the lost ohms with the in-line resistor. Guess you would have to use a ohm meter on you stock bulb and take a reading. Do the same with the LED. The difference between the two would be the required ohms of the in-line resistor! I think that sounds right???Wanted said:There is no such thing as a "4 watt resistor". Resistance is measured in ohms, not watts.
I simply mention this so that someone doesn't embarrass themselves going into an electronics store and asking for a 4-watt resistor.
Steve, I am about 2 days away from ordering some new LED lights. can you tell me more about exactly what to look for??steve j said:as long as the bike has a normal pin out flasher you can replace it with an electronic flasher from auto zone for about $15 and it fixes the problem because it does not care what the load is. sure cheaper than "load equalizers" and I think the people selling those are getting the "load".
Thank you! When I had my Electronics Training in 1972 LED's didn't even exist to my knowledge .......I guess us old timers have a lot to learn from the younger generation .....again, thank you for taking the time to explain LED's. Any additional info would be appreciated. At some point I intend to add LED's to my ride and would like them to work correctly!wyomork said:Bob,
It's been many years since I've worked with a situation like this but here's my thoughts on this subject.
I'm afraid that if you try to measure the resistance of an LED lamp you'll be in for a surprise.Â LED's are not a purely resistive device, actually they are considered a solid-state device.Â The best way is to calculate the series resistance of the LED.Â You'll need is to measure the current draw of the regular bulb.Â Divide (roughly) 13.7 (volts) by the current you measured.Â This result is the resistance of the bulb.Â Make sure that the motor is operating while you do this.Â If you don't, your result will be off.Â Do the same with the LED bulb.Â Only divide 13 volts not 13.7 volts by the current.Â You might need to make a jumper to do this.Â Since the current draw of the LED will be less than the incandescent bulb, the resistance of the LED bulb is higher than the regular bulb.Â Adding a resister in SERIES with the LED would defeat your intention.Â The resister must be placed in parallel (to ground) to increase the current flow through the blinker module.Â Unfortunately I can't remember the formula to calculate the proper resistance for the additional resistor.Â I'll check it out and try to get back to you.