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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
OK, so far I haven't experienced the oil overfill problems that I've been reading about in this section (knock on wood).  But, I still don't have a whole lot of miles on the bike - under 100. 

Can someone who has some experience with this please describe the right vs. wrong way to check the oil level, and how much oil are people putting in their bikes to avoid this problem?

Thanks in advance for any responses.
 

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Just do a search on this site or look in your owners manual.  Either of these will spell it out for you.  Enjoy your new ride and respect the M.
 

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Check your oil while it's warm...I usually do it when I get back from a ride...allowing it to sit for a few minutes , I then sit on the bike to bring it level...and
just set the dip stick in place and pull out immediately to check, DON'T screw in .
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
rynosback said:
Just do a search on this site or look in your owners manual. Either of these will spell it out for you. Enjoy your new ride and respect the M.


Just so ya know, I'm acquainted with the search feature and used it before I posted. I didn't see anything specific about the overfill problem and what would be the most effective method for checking you oil level or how much oil should be put in the bike - just that lots of members had one. Additionally, from what I read, the owners manuel wants you to warm the bike up for 15 minutes and one member suggested if the bike is low on oil the last thing you want to do is run it for 15 minutes (I completely agree with that).

So, again, if someone who has experienced the oil overfill problem - what did you learn from it. Specifically, what would you do differently.
 

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With an over fill from the dealer and yelling at Suzuki back in March. There is only one way to do it right.

Either ride it or warm it up for 15 mins.

Let it cool for 3 mins.

Set it up right and centered.

Remove the dip stick and clean it.

Place the dip stick back into the hole and do not screw it in.

Pull it back up and check the level.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Black Streak said:
With an over fill from the dealer and yellinf at Suzuki back in March. There is only one way to do it right.

Either ride it or warm it up for 15 mins.
Let it cool for 3 mins.
Set it up right and centered.
Remove the dip stick and clean it.
Place the dip stick back into the hole and do not screw it in.
Pull it back up and check the level.
Thanks man.
 

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So after the bike is running down the road, at max temperature, pull into the garage, let the bike sit 3 minutes, the engine is still really really hot........ and not to mention the cylinders but the lil oil dipstick is hot as hades too. ouchy.

3 minutes huh.... whats up with that...

and oil is a lil hard to see on silver, when its new. a good trick is to put it on a blue papertowel and it see where it gets wet.
 

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Yuppers that's what i've been doing following the directions in the book, and it's been right on the money everytime i've checked it, and yes the little black knob gets HOT lol........ :bigthumbsup:
 

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There has been some talk that you will get a different reading if you ride the bike for a while as apposed to letting it idle for 15 min as per the manual.

If you are riding the bike, I would suggest letting it idle for a couple of minutes to let it get it equilibrium first before turning it off and waiting 3 minutes.

Just a suggestion.

As for how much oil to put in.........Just enough and not too much! :joke:
 

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I do this:

Drain the oil and replace the oil filter
Add 3.8 Quarts
Warm up 15 minutes on stand
stand up right and wait 3 minutes
Check oil.
NOT EVEN ON THE STICK

Go out and ride it for about 15 minutes
stand up right and wait 3 minutes
Bingo, right in the middle of the hash marks

For the life of me I don't get it. I know it is full.
 

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rassillon said:
There has been some talk that you will get a different reading if you ride the bike for a while as apposed to letting it idle for 15 min as per the manual.
Yep, that's right. Of course there are the CBxr55's of the board that will argue this fact on and on, 'cause they've done it this way for years and years without blowing up their motor. The reason for the idle is because it allows the bike to heat up and move the oil at the lowest possible RPM. This is the only way to heat the oil in a consistent manner, in other words, heat it up without moving too much of it up high on the engine and gear parts. I rode my bike a couple days after changing the oil. Rode it for about 100 hard miles. Came back to my garage, shut the bike off, sat on it to keep it upright for 3 full minutes. Checked the oil, and not a drop showed on the hash mark. Once I let the bike cool down completely, and rechecked it by the book (15/3), the oil was spot on. Sure, it's a hassle and seemingly a waste of time. That's why I don't check my oil before every ride, but when I do check it, I do it properly, so I know my results are consistent. For me at least, 18 minutes of my time is less valuable than the cost it will be to rebuild my motor because I cut a few corners checking the oil.
 

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Medic1210 said:
Yep, that's right. Of course there are the CBxr55's of the board that will argue this fact on and on, 'cause they've done it this way for years and years without blowing up their motor. The reason for the idle is because it allows the bike to heat up and move the oil at the lowest possible RPM. This is the only way to heat the oil in a consistent manner, in other words, heat it up without moving too much of it up high on the engine and gear parts. I rode my bike a couple days after changing the oil. Rode it for about 100 hard miles. Came back to my garage, shut the bike off, sat on it to keep it upright for 3 full minutes. Checked the oil, and not a drop showed on the hash mark. Once I let the bike cool down completely, and rechecked it by the book (15/3), the oil was spot on. Sure, it's a hassle and seemingly a waste of time. That's why I don't check my oil before every ride, but when I do check it, I do it properly, so I know my results are consistent. For me at least, 18 minutes of my time is less valuable than the cost it will be to rebuild my motor because I cut a few corners checking the oil.
I'm certainly not trying to start an argument with you on this one, but I just don't get it. If I drain my oil and change my filter and add exactly 3.8 quarts, I would expect it to be right on the mark at (15/3). And to boot, I am using Amsoil filters and they are smaller than Suzuki, so if anything it should be a bit higher than mid way. At this point I am lost at the RIGHT thing to do.
 

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wayneb3 said:
I'm certainly not trying to start an argument with you on this one, but I just don't get it. If I drain my oil and change my filter and add exactly 3.8 quarts, I would expect it to be right on the mark at (15/3). And to boot, I am using Amsoil filters and they are smaller than Suzuki, so if anything it should be a bit higher than mid way. At this point I am lost at the RIGHT thing to do.
Don't know what to tell ya other than do what you're comfortable with. After all, in the end, the results will be yours. All I can say is when I add right around 3.8 quarts of oil (BTW, it's Amsoil oil and filter as well), my bike is spot on after 15/3 check. I idle the 15 minutes with the bike on the bike jack, not on the side stand. This is what it says in the service manual, so that's what I do. I remember there being a difference between the two methods (jack or sidestand idle), but I don't remember off hand what that difference was. Anyway, it's apparent that just about everybody has their own way they're comfortable with when it comes to checking their oil. Just pick a way, and stick with it so your results will at least be consistent. Just remember that Lamont stated he's been checking his bike after riding, and thought it had oil. Now he has a blown motor because it was apparently 2qts low. That alone should discourage most here (except CBxer of course) from relying on the 'check after you ride' method.
 

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Medic1210 said:
Yep, that's right. Of course there are the CBxr55's of the board that will argue this fact on and on, 'cause they've done it this way for years and years without blowing up their motor. The reason for the idle is because it allows the bike to heat up and move the oil at the lowest possible RPM. This is the only way to heat the oil in a consistent manner, in other words, heat it up without moving too much of it up high on the engine and gear parts. I rode my bike a couple days after changing the oil. Rode it for about 100 hard miles. Came back to my garage, shut the bike off, sat on it to keep it upright for 3 full minutes. Checked the oil, and not a drop showed on the hash mark. Once I let the bike cool down completely, and rechecked it by the book (15/3), the oil was spot on. Sure, it's a hassle and seemingly a waste of time. That's why I don't check my oil before every ride, but when I do check it, I do it properly, so I know my results are consistent. For me at least, 18 minutes of my time is less valuable than the cost it will be to rebuild my motor because I cut a few corners checking the oil.
Good info Medic.
 

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I talked to my buddy at the dealer and your supposed to let the bike idle for 15 minutes in the level position. Shut the bike off and let is cool for about 3 minutes still in the level position. Put the dipstick in till the threads touch. Do not screw in.
 

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BigVinnie, you've got a good dealer. He has given you good info. :bigthumbsup:
 

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I added this once in the sticky for Overfilled Bikes, but I think it's worth repeating here.

I'd read many times about the overfill problem on delivery, and checked mine as soon as I got it home. I used the procedure outlined here and in the manual, which was to let it idle for 15 minutes with the bike upright, then let it cool for 3 minutes, still upright, and check with the dipstick just placed back in the hole. It was just below the full mark, so I was good to go. I checked it two or three more times prior to the first service interval, and every time it was spot on.

Then came the first oil change. I do my own because I don't care if it sits there for an hour dripping oil, as I like to get as much out as possible. I pulled both drain plugs with the bike sitting on the side stand and got most of the oil out. Then I sit the bike upright, and a little more came out. Leaned it a little away from the stand and got a little more. I repeated the on stand, upright, lean over probably 3 times, waiting a while between each to let any additional oil drain. More comes out leaning on the stand than the other positions, but each added another ounce or two.

I added in 3.8 quarts of oil according to the markings on the bottle, then did the check procedure. It registered about 1/2 way up the has marks, so I added 2 more ounces. Good to go again.

Then out of curiosity, and to get the oil out of the drain pan, I got a funnel and poured the oil into a gallon milk jug. Not paying a lot of attention because there should have been less than 4 quarts in it, I was a little surprised when the jug filled completely to the top and spilled a couple ounces on the driveway. I still had probably 6 ounces in the pan yet too. So with a complete drain, the engine had at least 4 1/2 quarts in it. It had never gotten any oil in the left side filter, never showed over full on a check, etc. I'm still at a loss to explain how it could have had that much in it, but only less than 4 quarts to fill it back up.
 

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bigvinny109 said:
I talked to my buddy at the dealer and your supposed to let the bike idle for 15 minutes in the level position. Shut the bike off and let is cool for about 3 minutes still in the level position. Put the dipstick in till the threads touch. Do not screw in.
When I bought my 9 it came with a side stand. There is no mention in the documentation I received with the bike that any other type of stand was required. If this is not true, why does Zook not state that a stand to hold the bike vertical is a required piece of equipment to properly check the oil? Is one supposed to set on the bike for 18 minutes if a stand to hold the bike vertical is not available? :dontknow:
 
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