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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
im going to help a local 109er remove his baffles. i dont feel like going through with what i did to mine. what im wondering is if anybody has just taken a saws all to the rear wall and touched em up with a hand grinder? if it was mine id try it in a second. just trying to make the job quicker.
 

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Bad109, don't know if you have seen the video or not the guy uses a 1 1/2 and a 3in hole saw together to take out the back. the 1 1/2 acts as a guide for the 3in and cuts it out for a donut. Then he uses a 1in Dow rod to brake welds, who knows if it will work for us. Let me know what you come up with will ya, thinking about doing the same thing,
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
BearCom said:
Bad109, don't know if you have seen the video or not the guy uses a 1 1/2 and a 3in hole saw together to take out the back. the 1 1/2 acts as a guide for the 3in and cuts it out for a donut. Then he uses a 1in Dow rod to brake welds, who knows if it will work for us. Let me know what you come up with will ya, thinking about doing the same thing,
yeah i seen it. it will work with one pipe, the other is on too much of an angle. i used this method with my bike. the one pipe was a biaaatch. im just trying to figure an easier route for a fellow 109er.
 

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Let me know what you come up with and I will let you know if I come up with something. Talked to a welder today about it and he said he could cut the top with plasma torch for $15 but he was afraid of hitting chrome on bottom, for what its worth. My weld on the top is smaller diameter than any I have seen, it must got welded on Monday or Friday :joke:
 

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dont use the three inch on the top pipe its to big you will cut into the welds . i used a two and five eights whole saw on the top pipe with a smaller sized whole saw that fits inside of the small pipe as a guide . the two and five eights whole saw cuts just below the welds stick your guid in the small pipe and drill straight in . i know the angle of the pipe looks like this woudnt work but it will start cutting on the top of the pipe and as the farther you cut in it will get to the bottom of the pipe and you will have a perfect circle when it is all cut off then just tear out the baffle and your done . took me about five minutes to do this to the top pipe and the sound is awesome !! do the same to the bottom pipe but use a bigger whole saw to cut that one out . may be a three and a quarter inch ..
 

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How much louder is it over having the restricter plates drilled and the 1/2 holes in the end caps?  I am looking for a good deep sound, not a raspy pop type sound.  My D&D slipon had a nice sound on my VTX, trying to get similar on this bike. It probably had a lot to do with it being a 2 into 1. Low and deep, sets off car alarms, just not raspy.   :bigthumbsup: 

(yes I am one of those loud pipes people, I hate my neighbors)   :evil:
 

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t0rch75 said:
How much louder is it over having the restricter plates drilled and the 1/2 holes in the end caps? I am looking for a good deep sound, not a raspy pop type sound. My D&D slipon had a nice sound on my VTX, trying to get similar on this bike. It probably had a lot to do with it being a 2 into 1. Low and deep, sets off car alarms, just not raspy. :bigthumbsup:

(yes I am one of those loud pipes people, I hate my neighbors) :evil:
At least your honest :D
 

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Why not just drill out each baffle (Up to 3 in each pipe) with a 1.25 inch hole saw and start the bike and see for your self a little at a time.

The only mod I made to the stock exhaust is the drilling out of all 3 baffles in each pipe. The sound is better and it is hard to tell you did any mods. :p :bigthumbsup: :doorag:
 

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This is what my top pipe looks like, does evryone else's look like this ? What size hole saws are you using on the bottom.

 

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I just did mine last night. I used a 3" and 1 3/4" hole saw. The 1 5/8" was too small to fit over the baffle tube. I haven't drilled the walls in the other two baffles yet, but the sound with the otter wall and baffle gone is nice.
 
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