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Had mine done at 14,3?? and they were still well within tolerance limits. At your mileage, I would definitely have them checked. Better to be safe than sorry. If they are loose you can often times hear them, but if they are tight you can't hear anything and damage can occur to the motor.
 

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I am at 14,000 now, and will put it off until riding season is over. I suspect, since I have not abused mine, and I run a bit of Marvel Mystery oil in the gas, that they will all be perfect. I add it at a ratio of one-half ounce per gallon.

Marvel Mystery Oil, try it sometime. I believe it is preventative maintenance in a bottle.

When I had my last Honda CBX, it had 10,000 when I bought it, and had the shop adjust them before I rode it off. I used MMO just about every tank from 1990 unitl I sold it in 2006. The manual says to adjust them every 3750 miles, heck with that, it would have been every other month for me, Fuggetaboutit! When I finally detected a difference in the sound, using the screwdriver to the ear trick, I pulled the valve cover and checked them, one tight valve after 33,000 miles.

In the 16 years I had it, I never had to synchronize the 6 carburetors once. Once again the manual said to check them when doing the valves. I had a six-pack of gauges and checked them yearly, never out-of-spec.
 
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How many miles have you gone before checking valve clearance? I am at 22,000 and haven't yet, bike still screams. If so, has anyone had to make adjustments?
Bike will scream. Just before the service on most bikes, you have the longest valve durations. Least that's how my Kaw is. My mechanice told me with the shim/bucket design on my Kaw, that the adjustment is done to prevent valve float, piston to valve contact. It felt dead (comparing) to before the service.

What's our valve design on these? Shim under or over bucket?
 

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Bike will scream. Just before the service on most bikes, you have the longest valve durations. Least that's how my Kaw is. My mechanice told me with the shim/bucket design on my Kaw, that the adjustment is done to prevent valve float, piston to valve contact. It felt dead (comparing) to before the service.

What's our valve design on these? Shim under or over bucket?
Shim under bucket, you have to remove the cams to change the shims.
But, shim under bucket retains the settings longer than shim over bucket.
Shim over bucket easier to change.

Six-of-one, half-dozen-of-the-other.
 

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I know of one former member that had them checked at over 30,000 miles and one valve was a little loose. It was probably that way from the factory, as they normally get tighter not looser since the valves seat deeper into the heads.

Most of the prices I've seen for a dealer doing it are in the $700 to $750 range, but some have gotten it cheaper.
 

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I had mine checked at 45,000 KM's. All was in spec.
45KM?
How many inches is that buddy?:joke:

I have 22,000 miles, no checky. Starting to think about it but from what I see no one has found it needed. It would be a drag to spend that kind of money/time only to wish it were spent on a mod.
I would rather do it my self though.
Is there any one out there that used the manual and found it clear enough to do it right?
 

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I have checked valve clearance twice now. The 30K mile check had clearances in the center of allowable range. The only change between the 15k check and the 30k check was both front cyl exhaust valve clearance had increased by .001 in.
 

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Checking valve clearance

Stay with the Suzuki recommendation, otherwise you risk burned valves, which come with a hefty price tag,to replace.

Checked mine after 26000 km (~15600 miles), all were pretty close to the lower end of the clearance, 2 were right at the very end.

With shop manual it took me roughly the whole day. Contrary to the manual, I had to take of, the intake manifold in order to reach the valve cover bolts, and the exhaust in order to reach the rear cam chain tensioner. All in all it can be done, but certainly utmost care in checking clearance, calculating the new shim thickness, checking the cam alignment, is paramount.

Usually I valve check/shim replacement job in Germany goes around 500 to 600 $.
 

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You're the first member I've read that said the valves were ready to be adjusted. You're also the only member I've read that did them yourself.
I wonder if the Suzuki mechanics that we all are relying on, were wrong.
Also, you've been a member since 2007 and you just now decided to reply to a thread.. Sounds like you have a lot if info you could offer, you should spend more time on the board. :D
 

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Valve job once again

Hi Canuk,

well, I certainly check your board and follow it pretty frequently. We have a German board too, that deals with similar issues. Due to weather, German inspection rules, higher (no) speed limit there are a couple of different challenges we have to face. We wish we could use different exhausts as easily as you can, but on the other hand, we can hit the highway and blast along with 135 miles where the bike limiter in 6th gear sets in.

With my 1800, as it is called in Germany, I had the first 3 check ups done at the dealer in order to maintain guarantee. The 4th I wanted to do myself, as I love working on the bike.

I don´t know where I proved the Suzuki mechanics wrong, it certainly is not my intention. I just follow the repair manual, some advice from the Suzuki mechanic (remove Air box), and the exhaust was my idea. This makes the handling of the rear cam chain tensioner a lot easier.

Concerning the number of my posts, well, I just had the urge to report my experience with the valve job.

So much for the moment, keep up the good work . Regards
 
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