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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
got this from a post in another forum, but hey , we all 109 brothers / riders eh?
So no harm no foul, but hell someone will gripe I guess.
Anyhow, this is the text copied over. Now THIS aint no sidestand BS. This is Zuki problem in the making.
First failure of this type is definate BS cause I have seen at least one other, and thats the onse that bothered postiong.

Kudos goes to srtek1 for posting this one. I just copied,.

Service update

The failure was the Rear Wheel Trailing Arm Assy. It seems that there was a hairline crack in the rear wheel trailing arm assembly that allowed the drive axle to have excess play. The dealer describes the crack as unnoticeable until the rear wheel/axle was loosened for removal. The Suzuki service rep has inspected the motorcycle and all the components, ordered the necessary parts (which are currently not in stock anywhere) and authorized warranty coverage. Roseville Cycles service manager has kept me informed, and is doing what he can to get my unit back on the road.

They have no explanation or guess as to the cause, I suspect metal casting flaw or something of the like. They explained that the only pressure to this unit should be the rear suspension weight and travel, and the rear wheel torgue via the final drive unit. They also explained that this is the first failure of this type. The service manager at Roseville will update me with expected parts ETA.

Sounds to me like Roseville Cycle, and Suzuki Motorcycles has a handle on the situation. Parts are on order. I plan to keep information coming as I have it.

Check your machine, rear wheel trailing arm assembly, left side for hairline crack on tube portion, it may look like a casting mark. Hope everyone else finds nothing...
 
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Now that is serious, lets see how serious Suzuki thinks it is. This bike has quite the following, I am sure they dont want to loose this business, but they are a corporation - who knows. And yes, there will be some here who will grill you for daring to point out a flaw in this motorcycle. But, The majority - will appreciate the information. Does not hurt to look, and hopefully, these are very isolated problmes. But these are the kind of problems that can get one killed if not carefull!!!
 

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I suspect that as info is reported to Suzuki from it's dealer network on swing arm failures the company has its engineers working on a potential remedy. Wheather the failures are being caused by abuse or just normal riding is not the issue. Suzuki is aware of the potential liability problem.


A thorough inspection of the rear should include " Dye Penetrate" which would detect/enhance hairline cracks which are  not normally visable!
 
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Can someone direct me to the link describing the other swingarm failures? This is the first I've read about this. Does anybody remember Anders?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
dont think it makes any diff 06 or 07 as the swingarm is exactly the same for both. Only mods for 07 is a few metal engine covers to replace chrome plastic one. Thtas it I think cause I have one. But I usually wrong, so hey mayube on this too.
My typings crap, I do it all day ( it fels like) so after two cans of my fave bourbonm and cola it all goes to hell, so theres a couple of thuings Ishould fix on my previous post. I meant the assumption by zuki in the copied post that there is none otherfailures is BS, cause this forum has one, maybe two failures at least already.
So I figure this is probly #3 failure & 3 of these MAJOR failures is getting big......this is a kill-the-rider serious stuff hwere, cause if the failure is a little bigger than a hairline crack like in pics shown on this forum at high ( read JR / pridgen ) speeds its all over for the biker. Redline in 5th and the crown wheel/pinion falls apart at that speed, goodnight.......
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I just saw lamonster in a vid getting just beat by a rocket.....if the swingarm let go just as lamonster banged it into 5th.......
 

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And yes, there will be some here who will grill you for daring to point out a flaw in this motorcycle.
not enough evidence either way to "grill" anyone, and this is a different situation than the kickstand stuff. i remember seeing the first incident of the metal fatigue and following it. if this is a 2nd, seperate incident, that doesn't help the prospects. unfortunately only time will tell if it's a larger scale problem. gonna have to periodically remove my chrome cover to check for this, just to be safe.
 

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oh, and...

One bright side to this problem, if you can call it that, is the left driveshaft tube assembly is a separate component of the rear swingarm assembly.
from what i can tell the drive shaft tube in question is part of the swing-arm...all one piece. maybe guys that have had their swingarm off can verify.
 

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phaed said:
oh, and...

from what i can tell the drive shaft tube in question is part of the swing-arm...all one piece. maybe guys that have had their swingarm off can verify.
I stand corrected! As you have "correctly" stated the swingarm assembly is one piece. Page 9-40 of the Service Manual has a "exploded view" of the assembly! I removed/modified my original post :bigthumbsup: Thanks for bringing that to my attention :bigthumbsup:
 

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any ideas how to convince the dealer to check this without paying for the checkup?
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
jessem109r said:
hey perthguy i live in sacramento were do u live? were do u ride cuz i dont know any m109 riders out here give me a holla at [email protected]
Over in Perth, Western Australia bro.
Love to ride and go peg-draggin with some of you guys across the pond, but man, its a MIGHTY wide pond !!
Going to have to wait until I win lotto and trip to the states to buy a new "soon-to-be-released" rehashed Camaro.
And that could be a while.... :-\

happy trails mate.
 

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After doing my 600 mile service about two weeks ago I noticed that my gear oil was low when I went to drain it, full of fresh gear oil now and have had zero problems with my 9. I've had it about a month now and have just gone past the 1000 mile mark a couple of days ago. Fingers crossed, as I now find myself checking the Swingarm before and after every ride.

Walt
 

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jessem109r said:
how do u check the iol on the swingarm??
There is a bolt/plug with a large lip just to the right of the axle on the rear hub. Support your bike off the sidestand with a jack or by strapping the handle bars. Unscrew this fill plug from the hub. The fluid should be level with the hole. You can see if it's close by inserting a finger in the hole and feeling the fluid inside. You should be able to touch it pretty close to the lip of the fill hole. If it's low, you need to fill it with an 80W (or 75-90) GL-5 Hyopoid gear oil. Me personally, if it needs more oil, you're better off just draining what's in it and filling it full of fresh oil (Amsoil or Mobil 1 synthetic are my choices). Now, to answer your possible next question in regards to draining the oil... If you look below directly below the axle, you will see a drain plug near the bottom edge of the rear hub. Remove this plug and let the oil drain from the unit. I would allow the bike to lean on the sidestand while draining to get the most oil out since it's not directly on the bottom of the hub. Then, when filling the hub, just lift the bike off the sidestand as mentioned above, clean the drain plug of metal shavings (it's magnetic), replace drain plug, fill hub with gear oil, replace fill plug. That's all there is to it. Just remember that your oil has to be GL-5 rated for Hyopoid gears with either 80W or multi-weight 75-90. :bigthumbsup:
 

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Medic1210 said:
There is a bolt/plug with a large lip just to the right of the axle on the rear hub. Support your bike off the sidestand with a jack or by strapping the handle bars. Unscrew this fill plug from the hub. The fluid should be level with the hole. You can see if it's close by inserting a finger in the hole and feeling the fluid inside. You should be able to touch it pretty close to the lip of the fill hole. If it's low, you need to fill it with an 80W (or 75-90) GL-5 Hyopoid gear oil. Me personally, if it needs more oil, you're better off just draining what's in it and filling it full of fresh oil (Amsoil or Mobil 1 synthetic are my choices). Now, to answer your possible next question in regards to draining the oil... If you look below directly below the axle, you will see a drain plug near the bottom edge of the rear hub. Remove this plug and let the oil drain from the unit. I would allow the bike to lean on the sidestand while draining to get the most oil out since it's not directly on the bottom of the hub. Then, when filling the hub, just lift the bike off the sidestand as mentioned above, clean the drain plug of metal shavings (it's magnetic), replace drain plug, fill hub with gear oil, replace fill plug. That's all there is to it. Just remember that your oil has to be GL-5 rated for Hyopoid gears with either 80W or multi-weight 75-90. :bigthumbsup:
man thats alot of writting LOL good work how about page 2-19 of the service manual, LOL save alot of writting LOL you forgot to tell him the torque specs on those bolts lol :bigthumbsup:next thing he'll crack something from over tight
 

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biker-chicky said:
man thats alot of writting LOL good work how about page 2-19 of the service manual, LOL save alot of writting LOL you forgot to tell him the torque specs on those bolts lol :bigthumbsup:next thing he'll crack something from over tight
True, but I figured if he was asking, he didn't have a service manual on hand. :bigthumbsup: You did bring up a good point about the torque specs though. Per the service manual, the drain plug should be tightened to 16.5ft/lbs. No mention of torque for the fill cap, but since it has an o-ring seal, I wouldn't recommend torquing it down very much. I don't remember right off hand, but I'm pretty sure the owners manual has these torque specs in it, as I had already changed my gear oil before getting the service manual. Seems I remember it listing a torque spec for the fill cap though. Maybe it suggested 16.5 ft/lbs as well.
 

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If any M109R owners here in the states are experiencing problems such as this they need to be reported to the NHTSA Office of Defects Investigation. Here is the link to the site:

http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/
 
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