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I went to Amsoil after the initial break-in. The bike shifted noticeably easier. I thought it was BS until I actually tried the oil myself. Amsoil has gotten pretty expensive up here in Canada so last fall I did some reading and am going to give Motul synthetic a try for the upcoming season. I changed the oil in the bike last fall before putting it away for the winter. The Motul oil is red in color which surprised me! It should make reading the dipstick a lot easier. The oil-check procedure is a big enough PITA without having to look for nice clean clear oil on the dipstick!
i started this thread to see if it would help me change my mind from semi to full and it did .. Motul 7100 is what i am gonna get ...
 

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I normally use 15W-40 diesel-formulated oil in all of my bikes, but ocassionally I try something else. I have noticed that shifting normally degrades in time with the M109R, but not so much with my Hondas. The Gold Wing, when running it hard, especially when it is hot, doesn't shift quite as smoothly. I wonder if high speed operation causes excessive foaming of the oil.
 

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Yes. I also notice that shifting degrades over time. The main reason I know it's time for an oil change. But, I usually do 4000 mile oil changes. Pull the dipstick, feel the oil. If it still feels like oil, I'll go a bit longer. I've bought used bikes in the past, changed the oil when hot, it came out like water from a faucet. No viscosity at all. Must've been car oil. Anyhow, when I drain the full synthetic out of my Nine at around 4000 miles, it still has viscosity. Same with the 20W-50 I run in my B-King.

Side note: Back in 2009, my sister borrowed my 98 Ranger for "a year". Got it back after four years. Never changed the oil, in over 40,000 miles. It was full synthetic 20W-50 I had last put in it. There have been no affects from this at all. The oil drained like normal oil, just smelled bad. After that, I decided, F it. So the 20w-50 that is in it now has over 20,000, and on the dipstick still feels like oil. The Ranger is my daily drive "beater". But yeah, going to change it one day this weekend. I'm satisfied with 20,000. Not burning any oil at all, not leaking. 184,860 miles.
 

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I recently purchased a 2021 Honda CBR600RR. Had 1850 miles on it. Owner works for Oklahoma Honda Suzuki. Said 600 miles service was done there, that's where he bought it. I will be changing the oil to Motul 15W-50 in the near future. Have a five quart jug and K & n filter waiting.

BTW, like those K & N filters. They have an 11/16 nut on the end. Makes removing and installing it so much easier. I will never use another filter brand again, after using these the last two oil changes. One on my Nine, the other on my B-King. Filters come in black or chrome. Since the filter on my B-King is exposed, put a chrome one on it, black on my Nine since it is invisible inside a scoop.
 

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I recently purchased a 2021 Honda CBR600RR. Had 1850 miles on it. Owner works for Oklahoma Honda Suzuki. Said 600 miles service was done there, that's where he bought it. I will be changing the oil to Motul 15W-50 in the near future. Have a five quart jug and K & n filter waiting.

BTW, like those K & N filters. They have an 11/16 nut on the end. Makes removing and installing it so much easier. I will never use another filter brand again, after using these the last two oil changes. One on my Nine, the other on my B-King. Filters come in black or chrome. Since the filter on my B-King is exposed, put a chrome one on it, black on my Nine since it is invisible inside a scoop.
The nut on a K&N oil filter is for removal. I've heard several times over the years about guys cracking the spot welds and causing leaks using the nut to tighten. I'm not implying this is you , but part of the problem is their over tightening , always follow the filter manufacturers insructions , which is not a torque specification.
 

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I think any time you change the oil, it makes the bike seem to shift better. Kind of like new tires, the new ones may not be that much better, but being new they perform better.

And cbxer55, my old 2003 Ranger V6, I used Mobil 1 in it and routinely ran the oil to 12,000 miles or more. That engine was still going strong at 168,000 miles with no usage between changes. Usually less than half a quart was used. I've no doubt it would have easily gone to 200,000 miles with that oil in it. Modern synthetics are nothing short of amazing.
 

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I think synthetic oils are overrated. I am sure that the are better lubricating than dino oil, but how much better do they have to be? I have been riding motorcycles for 59 years and driving four and six wheel vehicles for nearly as long. I have been using non-synthetic oil for 99.9 percent of the time and have never had an engine failure due to a lubricant issue.

I recently heard that some of the new Briggs and Stratton engines on some models of lawn mowers don't recommend changing the oil.

"Briggs & Stratton's EXi Series lawnmower engine never needs an oil change, the company assures, due to its improved air cleaner sealers, cooler engine temperatures, and high-precision manufacturing. Consumers need to only check the oil level and add as necessary."

Edit: I forgot to mention that my three newest vehicles require low-viscosity fully synthetic oil. I presume this is to decrease fuel usage.
 

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The nut on a K&N oil filter is for removal. I've heard several times over the years about guys cracking the spot welds and causing leaks using the nut to tighten. I'm not implying this is you , but part of the problem is their over tightening , always follow the filter manufacturers instructions , which is not a torque specification.
The three I have, the nut doesn't look like it's spot-welded on, The nut is fully blended into the body of the filter. Maybe K & N changed them up due to peeps breaking them? In any event, I do agree that most people tend to over tighten oil filters. I don't. And in both cases where I put those K & N filters on last year, neither broke. We'll see what happens when it comes time to remove them. ;-)
 

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I recently heard that some of the new Briggs and Stratton engines on some models of lawn mowers don't recommend changing the oil.

"Briggs & Stratton's EXi Series lawnmower engine never needs an oil change, the company assures, due to its improved air cleaner sealers, cooler engine temperatures, and high-precision manufacturing. Consumers need to only check the oil level and add as necessary.."
That's because most consumers did not change oil in their push mowers anyway and, what better way to ensure regular ongoing sales of new mowers.
 
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I'm not sure what 'better' oil is if you change it at 3k miles or less.

IMHO: The problem with oil knowledge is that oh-so-much of the 'expertise' is from marketing campaigns from said oil companies. Those marketing campaigns play on our emotional attachments to our machines... "You'll be treating your baby better with this more expensive oil! Don't you love your baby?!?"

I've always stuck with the Rotella T4 in my bikes and change it every year, which individually is less than 3k miles per bike.
 
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