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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Not sure if anyone has posted pix of this before...

Someone at Suzuki needs to have their head examined. It's beyond me why the preload alignment mark is not within easy visibility. The OEM alignment mark is 90 degrees to the right side of the bike on the shock housing... it should be facing straight down. It's almost impossible to see what your preload is set to without laying on your back with a flashlight peering through small gaps between suspension components. ::) I change my preload settings often to accommodate different riding styles to match anticipated road difficulty (yes, I need DLP's Air Ride). It's nice to be able to take a quick look under the bike to see what you're currently set at. Here's what I did to help...

Whatever your most often used preload setting is, mark whatever number faces the ground. For example: when the shock preload is set at 4, the 7 mark faces directly to the ground. I took a black Sharpie and marked the 7 setting. Now I just peek under the bike and if the black mark is visibly facing the ground, I know the preload is set to 4. :bigthumbsup:











And for those who haven't seen an inexpensive "universal" preload spanner, here's an example. It fit's over a 3/8" ratchet. You can get it for ~$5 at a parts store or any cycle dealer that sells dirt bikes... this one is 65mm and works fine. You can probably get away with 60mm-85mm, but shoot for something around 75mm. :tools:



 

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seapup
Those are some terrific pictures and a very good idea. Taking it one step further, I wander if one of those tapes from a labeling gun would stay in place under there over the existing numbers. :dontknow: :dontknow:

Bob
 

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Thanks for the info Pup. I think I will mark mine. I just picked up a motorcycle lift and I have been told that it will make adjusting the rear shock a ton easier. I to change mine, mainly for when I ride 2 up. Not that often. Thanks again and great pics. :bigthumbsup: :doorag:
 

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Great Pictures. Just wondering what are the differences between settings. My bike is set at 4. I had the 2.75 lowering bones installed and when i ride 2up the tire rubs on bumps. Solo no problem. So if I change the setting to 7 will i be comfortable riding solo at this ajustment????
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
RLS said:
seapup
Those are some terrific pictures and a very good idea. Taking it one step further, I wander if one of those tapes from a labeling gun would stay in place under there over the existing numbers. :dontknow: :dontknow:

Bob
That would be awesome, but I don't think the tape would hold considering the amount of heat under the bike. And rain...
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
rynosback said:
Thanks for the info Pup. I think I will mark mine. I just picked up a motorcycle lift and I have been told that it will make adjusting the rear shock a ton easier. I to change mine, mainly for when I ride 2 up. Not that often. Thanks again and great pics. :bigthumbsup: :doorag:
Unloading the shock with a lift will definitely make adjusting easier (as in less physical effort). :bigthumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
HONDO said:
Great Pictures. Just wondering what are the differences between settings. My bike is set at 4. I had the 2.75 lowering bones installed and when i ride 2up the tire rubs on bumps. Solo no problem. So if I change the setting to 7 will i be comfortable riding solo at this ajustment????
Man, unless you weigh 300+, riding on 7 solo will jar your kidneys over big bumps, your feet will come off the pegs and your eyeballs will literally rattle in their sockets over rough roads. Seriously, your eyes will be bouncing around so bad you won't be able to see. Been there. :D I weigh only 185, have a 1.5" drop, now use 3-4 for all-around riding and 5-6 for serious twisties. I can't wait to install the Air Ride so I can be done with manual adjustments, but my budget is keeping me in check until next winter.
 

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cbxer55 said:
I weigh 160 and have mine set on #1.
It is great for all around riding.
My friend has his blurple on 4, and swears mine is lowered. :D
Have you ridden 2up @#1, what's it like? My 9's not lowered (yet) and it rides pretty damn stiff @ #4 1up & 2up, I weigh 175.
 

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I run mine on #2 with 2 up, no bottoming and it rides nice. I weigh right at 200 pounds and my wife weighs 125 pounds. The spring may weaken and compress more later, but I've got a long way to go back up if it does.

I found it a lot easier to see the marks and make the adjustment by removing the skid plate too. It's only got 4 bolts holding it on and comes off in a couple minutes.
 

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Great info and great timing. I was just looking at that the other day and was wondering whether it was on 4 or 7. Thank You
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Randirainbow said:
From your picture, it looks as if you are set to #5 :doorag: :doorag:
Which is exactly why you should mark the bottom. It's at #4. :bigthumbsup:

 

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:doorag: This is a great post I need to set mine higher to stop all that draggen of my pegs
 

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seapup, thanks for the pic's. Now I know it is not that difficult to do. Will get the tool this weekend and set it to 1. I think it is on 4 and some bumps bounce my 200 lbs butt right outta my seat :eek:
 
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mdconrad said:
seapup, thanks for the pic's. Now I know it is not that difficult to do. Will get the tool this weekend and set it to 1. I think it is on 4 and some bumps bounce my 200 lbs butt right outta my seat :eek:
Yeah, same here.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
mdconrad said:
seapup, thanks for the pic's. Now I know it is not that difficult to do. Will get the tool this weekend and set it to 1. I think it is on 4 and some bumps bounce my 200 lbs butt right outta my seat :eek:
Words of caution... if you set the preload to #1, medium to high speed cornering and a slight dip in the road will get your bike wallowing, bobbing and bottoming out (especially if you lowered your bike). I tried running #1 through some twisties and found that it sucked the cornering stability right out of this bike. Even hitting a small dip on an Interstate exit ramp at speed had my bike wallowing. It was controllable, but very unnerving. I'd try one setting lower at a time, down to #2 at the most, unless most of your riding is sane, sedate and straight up. :bigthumbsup:
 

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seapup said:
Words of caution... if you set the preload to #1, medium to high speed cornering and a slight dip in the road will get your bike wallowing, bobbing and bottoming out (especially if you lowered your bike). I tried running #1 through some twisties and found that it sucked the cornering stability right out of this bike. Even hitting a small dip on an Interstate exit ramp at speed had my bike wallowing. It was controllable, but very unnerving. I'd try one setting lower at a time, down to #2 at the most, unless most of your riding is sane, sedate and straight up. :bigthumbsup:
BINGO!!! That has to be what my problem is. I thought it was the 280 tire that was causing the wallowing I'm getting in turns. Didn't have it with the stock tire. Mine is lowered 2" and had the preload at 1. Thanks seapup, I never would of thought that could do it. :bigthumbsup: :bigthumbsup:
 

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man I am starting to think 4 is too soft, think I will try 5 out... 3 is out of the question for me, if what you are calling wallowing is what I have been through, I agree very unnerving but controllable. I can't imagine 2 let alone 1
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
T-Bone©®™ said:
man I am starting to think 4 is too soft, think I will try 5 out... 3 is out of the question for me, if what you are calling wallowing is what I have been through, I agree very unnerving but controllable. I can't imagine 2 let alone 1
Yep, I run #4 for general purpose riding. #3 for beach/boulevard cruising. #5-6 for pure twisties.

Man, I sure could use an Air Ride. Or an affordable shock that has adjustable compression, rebound and preload. Will probably go Air Ride this winter. :bigthumbsup:

BTW... I ran #5 for about a month... the expansion joints on I-95 make you fly out of your seat. It's pretty brutal for highway riding around here.
 
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